Question about 1985 Yamaha XJ 600

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I had a problem with chain and had to replace link due to the old chain snapped and binded up well ever since I fixedf the chasin my bike is shifting hard from 1st gear and up what do i have to do!

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Hey Matt, when you reduce the chain linkage, the lenght and play of your chain will definitely be affected,what you need to do is if you have an extra budget try to change your chain. Or adjust your rear wheel going forward, Ideal setting is approx. 1inch play up and down. this is the right setting for chain play. If you gonna change it try to use o-ring type chain better than standard chain.Let me know if it works. Thanks

Posted on May 26, 2010

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What size chain do i need for this bike


Why don't you just take off the old chain and take it with you to the bike store, since you have to return your new chain anyway and buy a new one. You don't even need to know the size, because they will match the old chain with the new chain. No guesswork required.

May 10, 2014 | Jamis Durango 2.0

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I inheirted a 1987 Schwinn Mirada. It is all tuned up and ready to go, but I have no manual and haven't the foggiest notion how to shift it without screwing it up. It has old top mounted shifters and...


It may help to have some simple advice about how to shift. You can only shift while the chain is moving. And the chain is only moving when you are pedaling. If you move the levers while the chain is not moving, it is no big deal unless you are very forceful with the shift lever. The bike will simply try to shift once you start pedaling. However, in all cases when shifting it is best to be pedaling very lightly. You want the chain to be moving, but you don't want to be pedaling hard and therefor pulling hard on the chain - that makes shifting very rough and you can hurt yourself. So, you want to shift to a lower gear as you approach an uphill, not while you are already pedaling hard trying to climb it. On the other hand, shifting to higher gears is usually pretty easy since you can always pedal lightly as you are moving fast.

One more thing. If this bike has it's original freewheel (that's the gear cluster on the back wheel) it is likely to be of the old style simple tooth design. These old freewheels are harder to shift than the new ones (basically they are more difficult to shift under pedal pressure than the new ones.) The newer (since around the mid 80's) freewheels have twisted teeth and little indentations in the face of each gear making it a whole lot easier for the chain to climb onto the next larger (lower) gear. If you have the old style freewheel you will be amazed at how much better the new ones work. If you do replace it, replace the chain too.
Good luck I hope you found this helpful Al K

Jul 08, 2011 | Schwinn Cycling

1 Answer

I am a women new to theis fuji roubaix road bike. please explain to me how to shift the gears on this bike , thank you steph


Google "bicycle shifting technique", for example:
http://coachlevi.com/cycling/complete-beginner-guide-to-bicycle-gears-shifting/

You should NEVER run cross-chained (big-big or small-small). The drive train performs best when the chainline is as close to straight as possible.

Excess sideways stress on the chain will wear it out prematurely and decrease its normal efficiency.

To demonstrate this for yourself, put the bike in the same combination of gears you're having a problem with. Get behind the bike and look straight along the top of the chain. As you can see the line of the chain is a mild zig-zag where it is parallel to the bike at each gear but needs to angle across the drivetrain in between. On some bikes the chain might even come in contact with the next larger chainring when used this way.

The big-big combo uses up all available chain length and the rear derailleur will be pulled toward the front of the bike, sometimes so far that it is in danger of being snapped off.

THERE IS NO UPSIDE TO CROSS-CHAINING.

May 11, 2011 | Cycling

1 Answer

I have a Huffy Savannah model 56770 16 speed. How do I shift into gear 7 through 16 ?


Google "bicycle shifting technique", for example:
http://coachlevi.com/cycling/complete-beginner-guide-to-bicycle-gears-shifting/
You should NEVER run cross-chained (big-big or small-small). The drive train performs best when the chainline is as close to straight as possible.
Excess sideways stress on the chain will wear it out prematurely and decrease its normal efficiency.
To demonstrate this for yourself, put the bike in the same combination of gears you're having a problem with. Get behind the bike and look straight along the top of the chain. As you can see the line of the chain is a mild zig-zag where it is parallel to the bike at each gear but needs to angle across the drivetrain in between. On some bikes the chain might even come in contact with the next larger chainring when used this way.
The big-big combo uses up all available chain length and the rear derailleur will be pulled toward the front of the bike, sometimes so far that it is in danger of being snapped off.
THERE IS NO UPSIDE TO CROSS-CHAINING.
As you can see, the rear derailleur is probably not long enough to **** up all the slack this gear combination creates. There are other combinations that would yield the equivalent gear ratio without either stressing the drivetrain or dropping the chain.
The basics of shifting are these:
1) The big ring and right side of the cassette in back are for speed.
2) The small ring and the left side of the cassette are for high torque, lower speed
Ancient bike wisdom for beginners: If your legs ache, shift down. If your lungs ache, shift up.

Apr 25, 2011 | Huffy Cycling

2 Answers

I need to install a bike chain for my 10 speed


Hi
very often you need to replace the rear cluster at the same time as the chain, as it wears to the shape of the old chain and when a new chain is fitted to an old cluster it can sometimes jump, which is not fun if you are standing and pedalling up a hill ( not quite as bad for the ladies)
anyhow remove the old chain by punching a pin out of a link, and lay it on the ground next to the new chain, punch a pin out of the new chain at the same lenght.
Thread the new chain around the cogs and derailleur and fit the joiner, there are some really neat joiners that will just slot together. or you can use the link from when you sized the new chain, just press the pin back through with multy grips, make sure the joiner link is not sticky at all, or it will jump when it goes around the cluster

May 01, 2010 | Mongoose Exile 26 Men's Full-Suspension...

1 Answer

I have shimano rd6500 rear derailleurs. when chain is on small chain-ring and smaller rear sprockets the derailleur cage is rubbing against the chain.How do i tension chain to hold cage away from chain,...


If you learn to shift correctly this won't happen..

Google bicycle shifting technique, for example:

http://coachlevi.com/cycling/complete-beginner-guide-to-bicycle-gears-shifting/

You should NEVER run cross-chained (big-big or small-small). The drive train performs best when the chainline is as close to straight as possible. Excess sideways stress on the chain will wear it out prematurely and increase its normal efficiency.

To demonstrate this for yourself, put the bike in the same combination of gears you're having a problem with. Get behind the bike and look staright along the top of the chain. As you can see the line of the chain is a mild zig-zag where it is parallel to the bike at each gear but needs to angle across the drivetrain in between. On some bikes the chain might even come in contact with the next larger chainring when used this way.


If you can shift to the big-big combination without snapping the rear derailleur off, you're lucky. The big-big combo uses up all available chain length and the rear derailleur will be pulled toward the front of the bike, sometimes so far that it is in danger of being snapped off.

THERE IS NO UPSIDE TO CROSS-CHAINING.

As you can see, the rear derailleur is not long enough to **** up all the slack this gear combination creates. There are other combinations that would yield the equivalent gear ratio without either stressing the drivetrain or dropping the chain.

The basics of shifting are these:
1) The big ring and right side of the cassette in back are for speed.
2) The small ring and the left side of the cassette are for high torque, lower speed

Feb 24, 2010 | Shimano 105 Triple Braze On Front...

1 Answer

I'm cleaning my MTB chain. I removed it from the front chain guard by taking out a screw. Now, it's all kinked up, and I can 't get them out.


a bicycle chain cannot be removed from the bike without breaking the chain using a special chain break tool or if the chain has a special link called a quick link that snaps apart. However, to clean a chain it does not need to be removed from the bike. Some degreaser, a stiff brush and some water as all that needed to clean the chain, then follow the cleaning with some good bicycle chain lube.

Dec 30, 2009 | kawasaki 73026-9 KDX126FS Dual Suspension...

1 Answer

I have a brand new yukon xl series bicycle, where do I get info.


Chain noise and gear slippage is most frequently due to binding links. Flip the bike upside down, prepare to get your hands dirty, and then flex each link connection. When you find an uncooperative link, spray it with something like WD-40 and work it until it moves freely. Alternatively, view the chain while pedaling by hand when it is upside down, and look for any areas that may be rubbing.

Jun 06, 2009 | GMC Yukon XL Road Bike

1 Answer

Put chaine back on bike


Starting with someone holding the bike with the front of the bike to your right proceed as follows. Shift the rear derailleur down so that it lines up with the smallest cog on the rear. Shift the front derailleur to the smallest cog on the front. This will give you the least resistance to thread the chain. Starting at the rear lay the chain over the rear cog teeth and holding the arm of the derailleur down so that the idler gears are one above the other thread the left end of the chain to the right side of the top idler gear and down through the cage. proceed with the end of the chain to the left side the the bottom idler gear and down . The left end of the chain you just threaded will now meet the right end of the chain which you are about to thread. Don't let the left end slip back the way you came. Take the right end of the chain and thread it through the cage of the front derailleur and over the smallest gear on the front proceeding to your right. It should be sitting in the teeth.Pull the right end of the chain down and arouind to meet the left end of the chain. Since you are asking how to thread the chain I am assuming that it is apart in one long length and not in a continuous loop. Use a twist tie to hold the two ends of the chain together for now. Shift the front derailleur to the largest outside gear taking care to lift the chain off the teeth of the small gear and place them on the large gear as you are shifting. Shift the rear derailleur to the largest inside gear(cog) on the back wheel taking care to move the chain again as you shift. The chain should be in a continuous loop with no twists in it that goes as I described through both derailleur cages and over the largest gear on the back and the largest gear on the front. Now the tricky part. You may need someone to help. You have to pull the chain with your left hand to move the rear derailleur cage all the way forwardand with the twist tie removed bring the right end of the chain all the way back to the rear along the left end of the chain to measure how long it would be joined up in that position. Note where the chain would meet if tight. You will have excess chain on one end. From where the ends meet give yourself two links on the excess end of the chain and where the ends will join now is the correct length. You will need a chain (break) tool to force the pin out on the excess end of the chain to remove the excess length.You have two choices for joing the chain. You can buy a pin that you can join the two ends with and when it is forced through to the mark on it with the tool you then snap the end off with a pair of pliers or you can buy a joiner link that comes in two halves that fit through the holes on opposite sides of the chain and then snap together. The forward action of pedalling will make the final snap to hold the link on. If you decide on the latter method you will notice that you will have to remove another pin from the length to get the side plates off the chain and expose both holes. This is a complicated explanation and if you haven't done this before and you don't have a chain tool it is far easier to get a bicycle shop to install a new chain as the actual chain has to be a direct match in manufacturing to properly fit your bike. If you decide to do this yourself, take the old chain in and get a new one. Make sure it hasn't been shortened as the old chain has probably been stretched and the proper method of measuring the new one is by using the bike itself not just laying the new one and the old one side by side. Good Luckand hope this helps.

May 16, 2009 | Huffy Alpine 24 Youth All-Terrain Bicycle

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