Question about 2002 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide Standard

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Pinging at low rpms when increasing the throttle slighly

2002 electri glide wth stage 1 and vance and hinds pipes. i have a ping when i give the bike alittle gas if you get after it qiuts

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Try an octane booster or higher grade gasoline. And don't lug the engine.

Posted on May 26, 2010


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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Pinging when on the thottle.and a wineing noise from lower end

Beings you DIDN'T give a YEAR (so I don't know if it's a carb or injection), I can only give generalizations.

Pinging in internal combustion engines occurs when air/fuel mixture in the cylinder has been ignited by the spark plug and the smooth burning is interrupted by the unburned mixture in the combustion chamber exploding before the flame front can reach it. The engineered combusting process ceases, because of the explosion, before the optimum moment for the four-stroke cycle. The resulting shockwave reverberates in the combustion chamber, creating a characteristic metallic "pinging" sound, and pressures increase catastrophically.

Some of the possible causes:

The hotter your engine is, the more likely your engine is to ping. The farther your timing is advanced, the more likely your engine is to ping. The higher your compression ratio is, the more likely your engine is to ping. The lower the octane of gas you use, the more likely your engine is to ping.

As far as the whining noise, does it sound like a chain noise?
Again, the causes/fix depend on what YEAR your bike is.

Jan 24, 2014 | Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide...

1 Answer

My ultra classic has engine ping

Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel octane rating too low.
2. Faulty spark plugs.
3. Incorrect spark plug for the kind of service.
4. Excessive carbon deposit on piston head or in combustion chamber.
5. Ignition timing advanced due to faulty sensor inputs (MAP, CKP, CMP)
Good luck.

Aug 06, 2012 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Hello - I have a 2004 kawasaki 1500 vulcan nomad fi. I was first wondering how to stop the pining I get when ever I try to use more then 3/4 throttle and second I just installed a cobra exaust system

Pinging, or pinking as it tends to be called over here, is caused by detonation where for various reasons the fuel charge in the cylinder, instead of starting to burn at the spark plug with the flame front spreading smoothly across the combustion chamber, begins to burn in more than one place and the pressure rises too quickly mostly causing the audible pinging. It doesn't do the engine any good at all and has been known to melt spark plugs and pistons and it isn't always audible...

Low grade fuel is one typical cause. Using a fuel with a lower octane rating than recommended is one reason for pinging.
Sometimes an engine will retain carbon in the combustion chambers instead of getting rid of it. I don't know what causes one engine to rid itself of surplus carbon and others to retain it but carbon build up makes the combustion chambers smaller and increases the compression ratio and pressure, theoretically requiring higher octane fuel.

Carbon in the combustion chamber could be causing a "hot spot" that in turn is causing the second flame front or even igniting the fuel before the spark plug fires.
The wrong grade of spark plug can be a contributory factor and it is possible your engine should have a colder grade of spark plug.

Ignition timing that is too advanced causes the pressure to be too high.

Your new exhaust system could have less back pressure than the original and this would tend to change the engine characteristics, particularly the fuelling that could now be a little on the weak or lean side which burns hotter and could be contributing to the pinging and also exhaust popping on deceleration (as does ill-fitting exhaust joints).

Fiddling around with the throttle position sensor would be unlikely to provide a complete and permanent cure, I feel. I once had brought to me an engine that pinged almost constantly when our fuel became unleaded. At first retarding the ignition timing worked but over a few months it had to be retarded more and more until the performance was terrible. After removing the cylinder head everything looked normal though the piston tops and combustion chambers looked strangely black but nothing could be scraped away to leave shiny metal.
Shiny metal was achieved after using a small chisel and a light hammer to remove a substantial layer of the hardest carbon I have ever encountered. The engine then ran normally with standard ignition timing.

Mar 05, 2017 | kawasaki Motorcycles

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I have a 2002 ultra-glide classic i bought in houston tx. i moved back to brownwood tx. i have pinging at low rmp when i give it a little gas but when i get after it it seems to quit. the bike has a stage...

Your bike is equipped with VOES switch that is supposed to stop this. The purpose of this switch is allow the timing to ****** when you open the throttle. But, you said when you give it a "little gas" it pings but "when I get after it" it stops pinging.

The VOES is a vacuum operated electrical switch. It's purpose is to ****** the timing on your engine and prevent pinging. What it actually does is "roll your timing back to where it's supposed to be". Under high vacuum cruising conditions, the switch is closed and it will allow your ignition timing to advance farther than it should be at any given engine speed. The purpose of this is to increase fuel mileage. But, if you open the throttle, the vacuum drops, the switch opens, and the timing goes back to where it's supposed to be for any given engine speed.

In your case, what I think is happening is that you aren't opening the throttle wide enough to get enough of a vacuum drop to allow the VOES to change states, go from closed to open. Only when you "get after it" do you open the throttle enough to allow this to happen. Now, the VOES is adjustable. You can take the unit off and using a hand operated vacuum pump you can check the point at which the VOES changes state. If it changes at 6.5 inches of vacuum, you can adjust it to change at 7.5 inches of vacuum which would make it change states sooner. Or, you could simply disconnect it and plug the vacuum hose and try that.

Good Luck

May 22, 2010 | 2002 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Whats the best after market slip on pipe for both power increase and a nice sound...i have been looking at a very reasonably priced Vance and Hines S4 for just $249?

Vance and hines is always a good choice of pipe, the nice thing about vance and hines is that you can back out the hex bolts on the back of the muffler and repack it when it gets old, or unpack it if you want it louader. Makes it quite tunable. I had a vance and hines 4-1 on my CBR 1000 and I was very satified. The price you are mentioned is good too. The V&E I had on my bike had a good sound at idle and rev and sounded awesome when I tached the bike up.

Apr 09, 2010 | 2004 Yamaha YZF 600 R thunder cat

1 Answer

Stage 1 Low rpm backfire

If you are running straight pipes they might not give you the right back pressure. This can be reolved by either going back to riginal pipes or instaling a bolt into the pipes about 5 inches in to make back pressure. Another thing? Did you have the bike's electronic ignition reset after you messed with it?

Jun 18, 2009 | 2002 Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883

2 Answers

Pinging noise at high rpm

You could have fuel with to low of octane rating.

Jun 01, 2009 | 2003 kawasaki KDX 220 R

1 Answer

2000 honda vf 750 magna errratic choke.

sounds like its starving a bit , try adjusting the fuel air mix screw,  Take air filter out and give it a good clean first before any adjustments ok?

May 10, 2009 | 2000 Honda VF 750 C Magna

3 Answers

Backfire and popping after installing vance & hines longshots

Let me know via if you get a solution, Mine is doing similar but mine is holding back at half throttle to, Wont rev high at all just chokes under load

Apr 17, 2009 | 1999 Honda VT 1100 C3 Shadow Aero

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