Question about 1999 Yamaha YZF-R6

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Wiring connection from cdi to ignition coil - 1999 Yamaha YZF-R6

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My female connecter broke on my cdi module while i was riding it just cut off well i cut the male and female connecters off and just straight wired it now my sparkplug is not firing is this because the cdi is too weak with it being straight wired i have a 2012 tao tao moped yes its the cdi module

Posted on Dec 04, 2012

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Just rebuilt my 2000 r6 after 6 months in bits. well took all pllastis off for painting. now all back together and it wont start. no sparks. fuel, starter and batt good.
con checkd evrything as per workshop manual and all resistances are correct with expection of the throttle position sensor. its R doesnt read as it should. but bugger to get off so work in progress. would that affect the no spark prob???? or am i looking at CDI? havent got another one to hang in for test and dont want to buy one(big bucks) untill i know its def that. any ideas please guys?????

british summer is running out n need to be on the bike

Posted on Jul 27, 2010

  • griffjg20 Jul 27, 2010

    sorry didnt mean to post my problem here

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Hi and welcome to the site,

How about the whole wiring diagram? Please click here.

Good luck and thank you for asking.

Posted on May 27, 2010

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1 Answer

My 2002 Yamaha Road Star Midnight has no spark


Hi, Jeff orange wires are usually, but not always, power wires and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose, check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil, pick up coil, trigger coil or CDI box testing needs to be checked with an ohmmeter at 70 degrees Fahrenheit
7. Faulty safety switches clutch, kickstand, neutral, off/on etc.
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Why is my 97 Honda 4 wheeler not getting fire


There are three items that are connected together needed to create spark on your 1997 Honda 4-wheeler, regardless of which model it is.
Before we go through a checklist of these three important parts, look for a black wire with a white stripe that runs to the ignition switch and kill button from the CDI box. Disconnect this wire before it gets to the ignition switch and kill button, then check for spark. The most likely cause is a broken kill switch on the handlebar, or shorted ignition switch. Such a condition grounds this wire and kills the spark.
If this test did not restore the spark, continue reading...
Here is what is required to create a spark.

First, the alternator has one coil which generates a high voltage--about 125 Volts AC for the CDI ignitor box.

Second, there is a pulse voltage generated once every revolution of the engine that goes to the CDI box. This pulse causes the CDI to dump its stored energy from the 125 volt line into the primary of the ignition coil.

Third, If the two connections of the wire that runs from the CDI to the Coil are BOTH SHINY clean, the ignition coil will generate a spark.

If any one of these 3 don't happen, the spark will go away. Of these three, item 3 -- one or two tarnished and/or dirty connectors -- is the most likely cause. Just an added resistance of 0.3 Ohms or more in the CDI to Coil connections will cause the ignition to fail. No other wires have to be this clean.

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Hi,who can help with kawi zx750j no spark problem.replaced cdi Checked ignition switch,coil But no spark.wiring also. Measured everything,seems ok to manual But no spark at coil Please help!!


did you ck or chang the coil itself is a feed wire bad that feeds the 12 volts ,could be wire bad going to the coil or cdi could be as simple as a blown fuse ,

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When idleing the lights go good but when you rev bike lights dim


Follow the leads that exit the crankcase from below carby area and thoroughly check all these connections to CDI unit and Rectifier and Ignition Coil. The wires also then follow thru' engine kill switch and lighting switch, others go to tail and brakelight switch. Are the wires being pinched at head stem or within handlebar switches. If all wiring/swithes and connections are in good order, you have some issues with your stator coils or pick-up coil inside left engine cover and behind the rotor, or the CDI unit. With some luck, the Rectifier or Ignition Coil may be guilty as these are relatively cheap to replace compared to stator coils and CDI. Get an auto. elec. multi meter check done. The Service Manual (info can be asked from Suzi dealer) has the Ohms resistance parameters to test against. Goodluck, and Cheers.

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1 Answer

88 ninja 600r losing power to coil and tach


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, check:
  • black wire from the ignition coil that goes to the CDI;
  • check the terminal/pin of the black wire at the connector before the CDI;
  • check the 4 wires from the pickup coil, their connectors and their connections to the CDI.
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

For a "no spark" problem with a Hyosung RX125, check:
  • temporarily disconnect the battery. With the engine on at both the ignition switch and engine kill switch, verify that the green wire to the CDI does not measure 0 ohms to ground;
  • if it does, check the ignition switch and the engine kill switch;
  • it it measures anywhere between 50 ~ 500 ohms, then reconnect the battery and check that there is +12 on the orange wire going to the CDI with ignition switch on;
  • for a pulsating voltage (high ACV) at the white / blue wire coming from the CDI going to the ignition coil;
  • for a pulsating voltage (low ACV, 0.5VAC) at the green wire coming from the pulser coil going to the CDI; and
  • of course, check if the CDI (black / white) is connected to the ground.
Postback results of tests.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

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2 Answers

1983honda vf750s v45 sabra: one cylinder & tact die out. can happen at anytime, can last for a few seconds or long time.


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

With the indulgence of Knight 007...

The tact dying is significant. It indicates that the pulse drive from the spark unit (CDI) towards the ignition coil has gone missing. The intermittent problem almost always points to a loose connection from the CDI connector to the terminal of the coil for the cylinder that misses. This would be the yellow wire of CDI to yellow wire of harness. This should not be mistaken for the yellow wire from the other CDI that connects to a blue wire that goes to the other ignition coil and fuel cutoff relay.

In some instances, the intermittent loose connection could be heat related and internal to the spark unit. A way to verify is to interchange the spark units where in the expected problem would be that the tach would no longer fail but the bike would suffer with fuel starvation.

Perhaps a wiring diagram would be of additional help.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

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No spark


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

To my understanding, the problem is 'no spark' yet the engine cranks. Generally, to consider are:
  • pulser coil (least likely);
  • ignition coil (likely);
  • interlocks (likely);
  • CDI (most likely).

Offhand, the CDI would be the main suspect. Since the CDI is sealed, it is not possible to do component level checks. The only way to check if the CDI is good is to check the external connections; if they are good and yet no spark, then the CDI is bad.

How to check the above:
  • to check the pulser coil, measure the low voltage coming from it using an analog/needle type AC voltmeter. While cranking, it should show a flickering low voltage;
  • to check the ignition coil, use a continuity tester. Primary should measure 3 ~ 5 ohms while primary to the high voltage end would measure 15 ~ 18 kilo ohms;
  • the ignition coil has 1 terminal connected to the IGN +12 while the other terminal is connected to the CDI. This should have a pulsating voltage when cranking.
  • all the interlocks could be checked with a continuity tester. Please note that most interlocks has a diode connected in series with their wires.
The interlocks include:
  • clutch switch;
  • side stand switch;
  • neutral light switch.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

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Connect the the + to the kill switch, and - to the CDI module.

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I've this data from my 1986 engine!

Under the left hand side cover there are 2 2-wire connections. One with a green and a black wire, one with a blue and a yellow wire.
Use an ohmmeter at R x 100 between both wires of a connector to check the pick-up coils: resistance must be between 130 and 180 Ohms.

The values of the ignition coil resistances are:
primary coil : 3-5ohms ( set ohmmeter at R x 1 )
Secundary coil : 25.000 - 45.000 ohms ( set ohmmeter at R x 1.000 )
For a correct measurement ALL leads must be disconnected ( also the spark plug leads )

The CDI cannot be tested with a simple measurement. Suzuki dealers have a special tool to test CDI boxes.
But checking the pick-up coils and ignition coils good will indicate an defective CDI.

The wires on the CDI:
Blue: PU coil 1 ( cyl 1-4 )
Yellow: PU coil 1
Green: PU coil 2 ( cyl 2-3 )
Blue : PU coil 2
Orange/white : +12v ign coil 1-4
White : switched coil negative side ign coil 1-4
Orange/white : +12v ign coil 2-3
Blue/yellow: switched coil negative side ign coil 1-4 ( and signal to tachometer )
Blue/white : ground

Thus, you must have +12V on both Orange/white leads.

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