Question about 2001 Suzuki VL 800 Volusia

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I have a 2001 suzuki VL800 the ignition switch went bad it was a 6 wire clip the one i recieved was a 4 wire clip now i figured out all the wires the only real difference is their is a ground wire comming from the 6 wire one and not on the 4 wire one i did tap it and run a wire to the ignition switch now i have lights and it will crank i have power go to the ignitor but none comming out of it to go to the coils any ideas

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You will need the correct ignition switch for that bike,

Posted on May 28, 2010

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Suzuki 2006 boulevard motorcycle running lights dont work. is there an in line fuse all other fuses good. have no power to the running light switch either.


Hi, Edwin and the usual suspects are:
1. Bulbs are burnt out.
2. Light circuit fuse was blown.
3. Faulty ignition switch.
4. Faulty, corroded or cut wire connector, pins, sockets etc. in the running light circuit.
5. Loose, broken or corroded common ground.
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Hi, Earl and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
10. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
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Hi, Wendy and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
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My bike seems to be loosing power at low rpm may be electrical or fuel not sure but at same time this problem started the speedometer went haywire


Hi, Eddie and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
11. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
12. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
13. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
14. Damaged carburetor.
15. Incorrect valve timing.
16. Weak or broken valve springs.
17. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
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1 Answer

My 2005 suzuki aeiro wont start.battery is good . wont turn over


what transmission,?
this can be 3 things, if it wont jump and batter is good.
bad connections at battery or starter.
1: bad starter.
2: bad (A/T shift switch) or bad M/T clutch switch.
3 bad ignition switch.
4: bad wire or connections end to and start system.

hot wire the starter solenoid, if car starts (cranks) then its 2 o 3.

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1 Answer

1997 Suzuki Intruder VS800...starts, runs, stalls


Hi, Anonymous the ignition circuit cut-off system comprising of the side stand switch, clutch switch and neutral switch has the following functions:
a. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is up, but the clutch lever is not pulled.
b. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, but the side stand is still down.
c. It cuts the running engine when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is moved down.
Periodically check the operation of the ignition circuit cut-off system according to the following tests.
With the engine turned off:
1. Move the side stand down.
2. Make sure that the engine stop switch is set to "RUN"
3. Turn the key to "ON".
4. Shift the transmission into the neutral position.
5. Push the start switch if the engine does not start the neutral switch may be faulty.
With the engine still running:
6. Move the side stand up.
7. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
8. Shift the transmission into gear.
9. Move the side stand down if the engine does not stall you may have a faulty side stand switch.
After the engine has stalled:
10. Move the side stand up.
11. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
12. Push the start switch if the engine does not start you may have a faulty clutch switch.
This check is most reliable if performed with a warmed-up engine.
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2001 Suzuki Volusia 800. Rode to store and came out and NOTHING (as if the bike was totally disconnected). No lights of any kind, no starter turn over, no brake lights - NOTHING. Battery is fully charged...


Hi, Topgunadpro before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, especially "AGM" batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid or starter circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
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My Toyota Sienna shows VSC light on the broad. What Should I do?


Hi there,

If you've had your vehicle computer codes read and determined no issue with the VSC circuit, then you just need to cancel the warning light.

I've made up the following instructions, on how to clear VSC & TRAC Warning lights:



Zero Point Calibration of Yaw Rate and Deceleration Sensors Using Paper Clips (or jumper wires).

First, locate the 16-pin ODB II connector under the steering wheel (beneath the dash). The pins are numbered sequentially backwards from right to left (from the wide side of the connector looking at it from underneath).


Take two normal-sized paper clips (or suitable jumper wires). If using paper clips, straighten one edge of one of the paper clips. For the other, bend it open to a 90-degree angle (like an elbow).


Insert one paper clip/wire into pin # 14 (Ts), and the other paper clip/wire into pin # 4 (CG) of the OBD II connector - DO NOT allow the paper clips/wires to make contact at this point.
Refer to diagram below:

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1. Ensure the shift lever is in "P" range.


2. Turn the ignition switch to "ON" (not start).


3. Momentarily touch the two paper clips/wires together (short) and separate again (open) - Repeat this process 5 times (within 8 seconds of turning ignition on).

Verify that the VSC indicator light is illuminated, indicating the Recorded Zero point is erased.


4. Turn the ignition switch "OFF".


5. Remove both paper clips/jumper wires from the OBD II connector.


6. Turn the ignition switch "ON" (not start) - wait until VSC warning light turns off (approx. 20 seconds), then wait 2 seconds.


7. Turn the ignition switch "OFF".


9. Re-insert paper clips/jumper wires to terminals #4 & #14 of the OBD II connector (as per above diagram).


10. Turn the ignition switch "ON" (not start) - VSC warning light should remain illuminated for 4 seconds, then start flashing at 0.13 second intervals.


12. After VSC warning light flashes for 2 seconds, turn the ignition switch "OFF".


13. Remove paper clips/jumper wires from the OBD II connector.



Drive your vehicle to confirm VSC & TRAC warning lights have been reset and no longer illuminate.




"If this has helped you resolve your issue, please be kind enough to leave a testimonial"



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1 Answer

I'm looking to hook up some auxillary lights on an 05 Suzuki C50T. There's an open T connector in the headlight housing that I assume is the plug in for a light bar kit. Can I wire up to this or is it...


Hi, Jzmzaz you can use the headlight "T" connector, your service manual will explain how to test for a charging system overload/capacity and battery drain, for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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