My car died suddenly, taxometer reading high

read the fault codes
indicates a BCM board problem or bad ground

engines stopping at lights can sometimes be attributed to a vacuum leak in the brake booster
test by idling the engine with the hand brake on and no foot brake then apply the foot brake and if the engine dies then it is the brake booster
hard to restart may be the vacuum leak if you still have your foot on the brake.

It will probably be OK. But if you can, find a can of brake cleaner and a toothbrush. Remove the air plenum from the throttle body. Use the cleaner to clean the throttle body inside and the back of the throttle plate as best you can. Especially around where the throttle plate sits. It will take a second or two to restart the car. Once started spray some of the brake clean into the throttle, rev it up to keep in running. This will help stop the dieing out.

Restriction in the exhaust can cause this. Test with a vacuum gauge normal 60 mph readings around 14-18 hg. in depending on throttle position once power loss starts if reading goes to zero restriction is present. then use of a infra-red thermal heat gun you can locate the restriction. hot to cold at plugged stop.

the most likely is the fuel pump, which doesn't set a code when it fails. The fuel pump relay may be getting hot and shutting down. Check the filter also. God-Bless!

One problem is IAC it is sensor beside TPS (RPM).That is 35,42 really do worry for now.

If the brake pedal goes hard right BEFORE the car dies, and not after, then you could have a problem INSIDE the brake power booster. try to verify this next time it dies at a stop, if you can safely pull the dead car off the road into a driveway (or try to make it stall in a bumpy parking lot) - then before you try to restart the car, open the hood, pull off the rubber hose where it's plugged into the brake power booster --> you SHOULD hear a big "Swoosh" of air being sucked into the booster because there's supposed to be a strong vacuum there even after the car stops running. if you get nothing there, your car is dying of an excessive vacuum leak through the brake booster.= bad booster.

Hello
The engine and transmission in this cars drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM (Power Train Control Module). Whenever a problem like this occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant teperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL THE DIAGNOSIS & TESTING IS COMPLETED.

Does the vehicle restart and die when you put it in gear. If answer is yes then you need a torque converter clutch solenoid (TCC) or a brake light switch. The brake light switch cancels the TCC at a slow down or stop.. If it doesn't cancel it you will stall out. If your vehicle restarts and dies once you put it in gear then its the TCC. If none of these symptons fit your vehicle get back to me .

a bad crank sensor causes a car to shut down while driving down road. and will not start back up for about 10 minutes. have car scanned to read the problem codes. any auto parts stores will scan for free.