Starts fine, rides for short distance then stalls and will not start until accellerator is at full throttle, runs rough once restarted.

Brad:

Go back to the carburetor adjustment screws and snug them down gently. Do not use force on those screws or you'll damage the needle valve seats. Turn both screws out one and a quarter turns out and start the saw. The motor should stay running.... if not adjust the screws until it stays running. Turn one screw in until you hear the motor start to stall, then turn that screw out just a little bit. turn the other screw in until the saw starts to stall, then turn that screw out a little bit. Now if the saw bogs at full throttle, turn one screw out one quarter turn. See if the saw runs at full throttle... if not turn that same screw in to where it was and try the other screw the same way. If you're good, you can adjust the screw while the saw is running to get the best full throttle run. This is not an exact science, and it takes time and many adjustments to get the saw to idle and run at full throttle. Good luck... and have patience.

Not unusual for fuel pumps to begin to fail once they are heated up from running. First thing in the morning pump is cool, then as you drive, it heats up and begins to lose pressure. After sitting a 1/2hr-1hr, it may start again and run fine for a short time and start to act up again. Had similar problem and found good fuel pressure when tank and pump cool, but lost pressure once vehicle driven a distance and pump heated up. The hotter the weather, the shorter the distance I could drive. If you can somehow set it up to have fuel pressure checked when it starts to act up, that would certainly help confirm if fuel pressure is the culprit.

Hello! I need the trouble code...The vehicle is an On Board Diagnostic 1 (OBD!)...You can not use a scanner on an OBD1...See drawing below of connector under the steering wheel...Short pins A to B...Turn on the key...Don't start the engine...Light on dash will flash the code ie...4 long blinks...pause... 1 short blink=code 41...each code, if more tan one, will flash 3 times...record the code # and send it to me and I'll fix the problem....codes are all two digit... guru...saailer






I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

you may have to check the fuel pump function for pressure and volume when this happens as it could be a bad pump,you could have it checked when working as it could show up something but more likely should be done when it stops running.

The EGR valve is unserviceable which causes a bad or insufficient fuel control for em-missions......Hope this helps you out........EGR valves are not very expensive.

It sounds like you need to change the fuel filter.

it looks like your engine is having an over rich fuel mixture maybe, thatswhy when you press the pedal to the floor it starts becouse you allow lots of air to help clean the mixture while cranking, also you should have black smoke in the tailpipe until it cleans up and runs fine, i think youre having a leak in one our more injectors you should check them first for proper seal under pressure these is done in an injector test machine, second it may be a defective map sensor these trucks some times have a bad map and dont give a MIL (malfunction indacator lamp) and last but more rare to be is a blocked fuel pressure regulator chek fuel pressure it should be between 38 and 45 psi and it shoul hold these pressure when you turn off the engine if pressure drops fast its injector seal problems or fuel pump check

Try changing the spark plug.

First change fuel filter and then change air filter. A turbo requires good air flow to spool-up correctly

After it dies, then you restart, does it run fine for about 30 sec, and then go to ****?