After cleaning my carbs.. Just the float chamber and carb cleaner in areas I could reach by removing the Vacuum chamber cover and jet I have fuel pouring from one of the air vent tubes. What Did I do wrong? (other than trying to clean all those carbs)
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Re: After cleaning my carbs.. just the bowls and carb
You probably have a stuck float needle or a float needle that missed the hole check the leaking carb again. It could be a piece of dirt on just the one float needle or worst case scenario a sunk float(you have to test them by floating them in a cup of gas.).Note: black plastic/foam style floats are susceptible to saturation sinking when used in ethanol fuel (gasohol). If this happens you have to replace the float.
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Remove carb from mower. Use carb cleaner and small acid brush to clean outside of carb. Remove bowl from bottom of carb. Clean bowl. Observe bolt that held carb bowl to carb, see if it has a hole or holes thru it. Clean out holes with bread wrapper wire with about 1in of wire. Test float, float down fuel flow, float up fuel stops. Use bread wrapper to clean center port of carb from bottom up thru carb body. Remove float pin float and meter needle, use bread wrapper to clean meter needle passage up thru carb body. Re-assemble carb.
Honda carbs can be purchased new for $14 - $27.
There are 2 different enigines on these depending upong your actual unit model number.
One had a Subaru 175 cc engine and the other was a Honda engine. For carb specifics I need the ENGINE model number. Either way... here is what you need to do:
1. Fuel selector off.
2. Remove main fuel line from the carb.
3. Use a spray can lid and check FLOW. It should fill the lid in under 8 seconds. (Feul selector OFF now) If you do not have good fuel flow here you need to inspect the tank exit port, in line fuel filter if used and the sediment bulb under the fuel selector for debris
(GOOD FUEL FLOW NOW)
4. Remove the float bowl by unscrewing the bowl nut from the bottom of the carb. NOTE positon of gaskets as you remove float bowl. Use carb cleaner and direct a spray hopefully with mini extension tube of the carb nozzle into the center of the threaded area of the bowl nut. (This cleans main fuel jet orifice / pin hole) Then spray carb cleaner using mini nozzle extension up the flat side of the float needle until carb cleaner exits the main fuel line connection. Last spray from the main fuel line connection to the float needle (reversed spray)
This usually removes any debris from the float bowl. main fuel jet and main fuel manifold Reinstall the main fuel line.
- Turn on the fuel selector and use the spray paint can lid under the float to catch fuel. It should fill in 8 to 10 seconds to the point your worried about over-flow.
- GENTLY lift the float needle to the level position. FUEL MUST STOP.
- Lower Float to resting position. FUEL MUST FLOW so that it would fill the spray paint can lid in 8 to 10 seconds. (FUEL SLECTOR OFF)
Clean the bowl nut and reinstall the float bowl. Turn on the fuel.. wait 30 seconds for the float bowl to fill completely and start unit. If it runs GREAT... If it only runs with the choke on you still have a fuel supply problem...i.e most likely the main fuel just in the threaded area of the bowl nut is still clogged. .
This should get you going. Thanks for choosing FixYa,
If the generator has sat for some time the fuel in the float bowl will turn into a varnish like substance (shellac). The residual fuel in the carb will have to be removed. You do this by removing the fuel solenoid (or bowl nut) which ever one youhave that secures the float bowl to the carb. Then take a screw driver and remove the main fuel orifice and remove the debris from the main fuel orifice. Clean the orifice with carb cleaner. DO NOT push anything into the hole! Also spray the brass tube that the main fuel jet screws into with carb cleaner. You should see carb cleaner being sprayed into the throat of the carb.
While the fuel float bowl is removed get a spray can lid and hold it under the carb float. Turn on the fuel selector and the fuel should completely fill the spray can lid in 8 - 10 seconds. If you do not have this amount of fuel flow you need to remove the main fuel line from the carb and re-check fuel flow. If the flow is good here then use carb cleaner in the float needle area to force any debris back out the fuel manufold connection that is now open because you removed the fuel line. If you still do not have fuel flow then check for debris in the fuel tank exit port, the fuel filter, the sediment bowl under the fuel shut off assembly.
Once again with the spray can lid under the float you should have fuel flow anytime the fuel selector is on and the float level is down. It should shut off fuel just as it reaches level. Any other result and the float and float needle will have to be removed, cleaned and inspected for debris.
Make sure to re-install the main fuel orifice in the treaded area that secures the float bowl in place and.re-connect the main fuel line to the fuel manifold / carb fuel inlet connection
If the engine has a fuel solenoid hook it up and and see of it is working as you turn the key / engine switch on and off before you reinstall the float bowl. You make have to hold the case of the solenoid against the engine to make a ground AWAY from any residual fuel for testing. I.e. don't burn up your generator.
Re-install the fuel float bowl and test the engine. It should now work just fine. The above steps are successful most of the time on generatosr that have sat idle for an extended period. I have been working on generators large and small for over 40 years.
Carbs all have some minimal derbis in the float bowl. When an engine runs out of gas the float bowl cavitates and the debris that was just fine in the bottom of the float bowl is drawn into the main fuel jet located in the threaded area of the bowl nut. Remove the float bowl nut and bowl. Use carb cleaner to remove the debris from the main fuel jet orifice in the threaded area of the carb body.
(If the carb cleaner does not free the debris from the main fuel jet is can be unscrewed and removed for cleaning. Just make sure the screwdriver is a good fit to the brass slots of the orifice or you will never get it out.)
Make sure to clean out the float bowl and nut before re-assembly. This should get you going pretty quickly.
This sounds like fuel restriction or debris in the carb float bowl. If the unit has a fuel filter change it. Remove the main fuel line to the carb and check fuel flow. It should be at a fair gravity rate from the fuel tank. If not.. check the fuel tank exit port and line from the bottom of the tank to any fuel shut offs or debris catch bowls. Clean any catch bowls.
If you have good fuel flow...... to the carb:
Remove the float bowl and clean out the debris. Use carb cleaner. While the main fuel line is removed shot carb cleaner UP into the float needle area to flush out the manifold and fuel passages. Locate the main fuel jet often in the threaded area of the bowl nut and clean that out also.
Reconnect main fuel line and install the float bowl. Check for fuel leaks BEFORE starting the unit.
This should get your unit going again. If not please respond with a model number so I can look up everything.
You can fix this yourself.
(Turn off the fuel selector)
Remove the carb float bowl nut and bowl. Note the gaskets upper and lower. Remove the float pin retaining the float and drop the float and float needle together.
Briefly turn on the fuel selector and then back off. You are flushing debris from the float needle seat. It is a good idea to use carb cleaner to ensure that the float needle seat area is clean.
ALSO spray carb cleaner into the threaded area where the bowl nut attaches. Your cleaning off the metering jet orifice up inside the threaded area.
INSPECT the float needle itself. The rubber tip should be tapered and pliable. If there are any nicks cuts or debris on the end of the needle first wipe it off and determine if you need a replacement float needle.
Reinstall float and needle ensuring you have the float pin properly installed.
CLEAN the bowl NUT along with the float bowl. Then reinstall the the float bowl. 2 gaskets upper and lower must be properly seated.
Turn on the fuel selector...
Test for leaks.
This should fix the leak but... if you still have the problem and did not change the float needle and seat. Change them. The float needle seat can be difficult to remove. I find that air in the fuel supply manifold fitting will blast most of them out but... sometimes I have to use a drill bit the size of the hole to cut the rubber material and then dig it out with a scribe or jewelers screwdriver. Just make sure to clean the hole with carb cleaner before installing the new seat. To install the new seat... reverse the drill bit using the flat chuck driven end and press it into place. Works great!
Once the carb is removed, make sure you strip the carb down over an area where you are unlikely to loose parts should you drop them. Once the fuel pipe is removed which will need to be squashed to stop fuel loss, empty the fuel float bowl using the drain screw over a clean container which you can then inspect the condition of fuel coming out. Strip the jet and fuel atomiser (Unscrew) and the float from the float bowl. Before cleaning with carb cleaner ensure you remove the rubber gaskets as these will be damaged if they come into contact with carb cleaner as they will swell and no longer fit. For best resuls blow with compressed air, mind your eyes carb cleaner stings like hell! Reassemble, the bits will only go back from wence they came. Ensure the float is positioned correctly with the needle, don't over tighten the screws just nip them up. Good luck
Well, a couple things may be wrong.
1) debris could be lodged under the needle valve. Remove the float by gently slideing the float pin out, the needle will either slide out with the float or remain in the seat and a pair of needle nose pliers will help to retreave it. clean the seat and inspect the needle valve for damage.
*note that even the smalles debris can keep the needle from seating so take care during reassembly*
2)depending on the type of carb cleaner used, and the exact type of needle valve in your carbs, the needle valves may have been dammaged during the cleaning. Some carb cleaners can "eat" neoprene or rubber components in carbs. It is always best to fully disassemble them before cleaning, if you are not confident in your ability, have a pro do it for you.
The solution for this is to remove the needle valve as above, and inspect the needle and float for damage. **If in doubt replace the needle valve**
Bad gas can cause the engine to surge, but also the carb bowl and jets need cleaning. I usually drain the gas, remove the bowl, wipe inside the bowl , and then use a carb cleaner to spray the float and jet/s. The float may be hanging up. It would be best just remove the gas and clean the bowl area and float/jets. I wouldn't think replacing the carb. is the problem.
Try removing the air cleaner and run the mower rpm up high then close of the air intake hole with your hand it will stall start back up repaeat this will usually **** out any blockage in the carb. If this doesn't work remove the float bowl and empty the contents, clean, replace. If this mower doesn't have a float bowl (carb and float intergrated type) remove the gas take along with the carb and disassemble the carb from the gas tank and clean out the small chamber in tank and spray all parts with carb cleaner then blow out with compressed air reassemble and start.