Question about 1996 Yamaha YZF 600 R thunder cat
Electrical? The power of the bike near dies when the gas is opened up to high.. the power also fluctuates with the blinker, gets worse when the headlamps are on high. Sounded like the carbs, but now im not so sure.
Hi, Jeannette in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
YZF600R Forums View topic Charging system
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Posted on Aug 17, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if the carbs are properly balanced the only thing it can be is the timeing. it could be a littler advanced or turned back check that
Posted on Jun 04, 2009
SOURCE: Won't idle without choke
The pilot jet controls the air/gas fuel mix at idle . If the jet gets plugged up not enough gas gets to the emgine at idle. You will need to remove the carbs and float bowls and clean them, paying special attention to the pilot valve. Count the number of turns to remove the pilot screw and replace the same number of turns then turn counter clockwise 1/2 turn.
A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
SOURCE: Back firing at idle
A backfire comes from unburned fuel getting into the exhaust manifold and igniting.The cause is normally poor ignition. So it can be either your spark plug gap is too big, dirty, faulty, etc or your coils are problematic, but as 1 coil is allocated to 2 pots I would doubt this. The other is that the fuel mix of the cylinder is way too high and it can not burn all the fuel. balancing the carbs will help fix the problem. Your idle RPM should be around 12-1400.
To balance your carbs you need 4 vacuum guages. You will plug these into the carbs (1 per carb) by removing the screw in the manifold just above where each carb attaches to the engine. Set your idle screw to get the engine running at about 2-2500 rpm and adjust the butterfly position till you get all the vacuum gauges at the same reading (IE max that you can get for the pot).
Hope this helps
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
It sounds like it is running too lean for some reason. First, let's assume that the normal tune up items are correct (valve tappet clearances, spark plugs are good, air filter, etc.). Also included in this assumption is that the engine has good compression (at least 140 psi on all cylinders) and that there are no air leaks between the carbs and the engine.
The aftermarket exhaust will generally require larger jetting in the carburetors - especially when combined with anything but the stock air cleaner box assembly. So, right off the bat, plan on going up to the next size larger pilot and main jets for the exhaust alone - PLUS another two to three sizes bigger if you aren't using the stock air cleaner box.
Finally, make sure the carbs that you have refitted to your bike are not clogged up from sitting with gasoline in them. It only takes a few months for the fuel to evaporate and leave behind a varnish that will require the carbs to be disassembled and cleaned.
Posted on Dec 07, 2009
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