Oil build up in the frame. When you warm it up & check the oil. Oil comes out the frame.

iso 32 // 30wt. compressor oil, or no additive mineral oil, never use automotive oil in a air compressor

Because you have warmed up the Oil and building Oil Pressure. Chrysler Engines are known for building up SLUDGE!!!!

Put 1.5 Quarts of Diesel into your Oil, run it at IDLE (NOT DRIVING) for 15-20 minutes...

Shut off and do a Oil change. If your engine is Higher Mileage, use a 20W-50 Oil, this will also increase your Oil Pressure

That's really bad ... First of all check oil level when its cold... The clanking sounds are your valves running dry. This will cause massive damage the heads. If you oil is low fill it back up & check the engine for leaks & hope there is not valve damage. If the oil was low and you filled it & you still get the clanking noise the valves are permanently damaged & the head/heads & valves will need to be replaced.. Big costs

Hi, here you go:

Oil capacity is the same as the 250.
1.5 ltrs at oil & filter/s change.
700mls to 1ltr without filter change.
This bike has what is called a dry sump. You fill your oil at the filler point that is located in front of the fuel tank on the frame. It uses the front frame tube as a container for the oil & pumps it back & forth to the motor. This bike has two oil filters.A cartridge type one located behind the small round cover held in place with two bolts that is located on the clutch cover.The other filter is a screen attatched to the spiggot which the hose from the frame(front bottom) slides over. Remove the hose(frame front bottom), undo the spiggot that the hose was attatched to,and as you pull it down to remove it you will see the fine wire screen that is attatched to it.
When you remove the oil filler plug(in front of the fuel tank)you'll notice it has a dipstick on it. When you fill the tank the oil level will seem high. Run the bike first(to let the oil circulate) then check the level on the dipstick. It will now be much lower. adjust the level to the correct level & away you go!
I recomend changing the the cartridge oil filter & cleaning the screen every time you change the oil. Use a high quality oil like Motul & change the oil regularly.
Also keep your air filter clean & oiled properly.

Good luck!!
EJ Kudelka

Check your oil level or oil press. sensor. it's either on the side of the block or in the side of the oil pan.

I have the same compressor with the same problem. I have temporarily eliminated the thermal reset with a piece of 12 gauge hard wire and it runs just fine. However, I do want to replace it before the warm weather come to the north. I tested the draw at 15.5 amps and the reset was a 17 amp. I am told by someone with superior electrical background that I need to install a 20 amp thermal reset in it's place. I have found that mine runs best when plugged directly into a 20 amp circuit and when using an extention cord I have a 10 guage cord that will carry the load needed to run the EC12. I have also changed to 100% synthetic oil.

check all your drainage tubes, my kx had a drainage tube that came loose and leaked all over my exaust and rear

Oil capacity is the same as the 250.
1.5 ltrs at oil & filter/s change.
700mls to 1ltr without filter change.
This bike has what is called a dry sump. You fill your oil at the filler point that is located in front of the fuel tank on the frame. It uses the front frame tube as a container for the oil & pumps it back & forth to the motor. This bike has two oil filters.A cartridge type one located behind the small round cover held in place with two bolts that is located on the clutch cover.The other filter is a screen attatched to the spiggot which the hose from the frame(front bottom) slides over. Remove the hose(frame front bottom), undo the spiggot that the hose was attatched to,and as you pull it down to remove it you will see the fine wire screen that is attatched to it.
When you remove the oil filler plug(in front of the fuel tank)you'll notice it has a dipstick on it. When you fill the tank the oil level will seem high. Run the bike first(to let the oil circulate) then check the level on the dipstick. It will now be much lower. adjust the level to the correct level & away you go!
I recomend changing the the cartridge oil filter & cleaning the screen every time you change the oil. Use a high quality oil like Motul & change the oil regularly.
Also keep your air filter clean & oiled properly.
Hope htis helps
Regards Andrew Porrelli

Check your oil pump next. make sure the check valve is not stuck

Does the oil light flicker only when the engine is 'idling'? Or does it flicker ALL the time? Does it flicker when the engine is cold? Or, only after the engine warms up? Cause could be low oil pressure (check oil level & condition- should be full and clean), could be the oil pressure sending unit going bad, could be electrical (short) in the oil pressure sending unit wire harness, could be sludge buildup in the crankcase clogging the oil pickup tube to the oil pump, or it could be a clogged oil filter or the oil pump is going bad. If you have an after-market oil filter installed, they somtimes rob the system of pressure. There is a Technical Service Bulletin on this for Hyundai Vehicles. You should use the genuine Hyundai Oil filter.
Does the Check Engine light come ON when this happens? Whenever the "Check Engine" light comes on, there is always a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) stored in the ECM (Engine Control Module). You'll need an OBDII (On-Board-Diagnostics) scanner to retrieve any codes recorded/set in ECM. Once you do this and let us know what, if any codes are set, then we can go from there. OR, take/tow the vehicle into a Hyundai Service Center (dealership), pay the diagnostic fee. They will tell you EXACTLY what the problem is and what's needed to fix it (parts, labor, tax, time-frame, etc.). You could also go to http://www.hmaservice.com/ and register (vehicle by VIN). Afterward, you'll have access to technical information (manuals, wiring diagrams, service bulletins, etc) about your vehicle.