Bike starts right up in choke take it off choke shuts off
Bike starts in choke and idles great. When I give it gas it is very hesitant. lazzy throttle response. when I take it off choke it dies. I just did an ear shave. cleaned the carbs and re jetted too. also put 2 spacers under my throttle pin. fuel air mix screew is 2.5 - 3.5 turns out. I tried both. Any help would be great. The season is rapidly ending and I would love to take my bike out again. thanks in advance. Sean
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Re: bike starts right up in choke take it off choke shuts...
When you rejetted, did you also change the idle jets or just the main jets? if you didn't change the idle jets, that would probably help. remember you might also want to raise the float level height just a little bit to compensate for the extra fuel going out.
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"Manual says not to give it gas". This is correct. If your bike is equipped with fuel injection, the electronics control the fuel in a cold weather start.
In the event your bike is equipped with a carb, you must allow the enricher (choke) to do what it is designed to do. Allow me to explain how it works on a carburetor equipped bike.
A choke and an enricher circuit do the same thing, start a cold engine with an over-rich fuel mixture. But, they way they accomplish this is completely different. The choke is a plate in the mouth of the carb that limits the air intake of the carb making the fuel mixture rich. An enricher is a completely separate circuit within the carb. It has it's own venturi that runs parallel to the main venturi. When you pull the enricher, it opens this venturi and a fuel port that comes directly out of the float bowl. This supplies the air and the fuel to start the engine. But, it will only do that if the vacuum is pulling air through this venturi. If you "give it gas" or open the main venturi, the vacuum pulls the air through the main venturi rather than the enricherventuri and the engine does not want to start.
So, this is how I tell people to start their engine when it's cold. First turn on the fuel at the petcock. Then twist the throttle grip twice and go back to full close. Pull the enricher out, turn the switch on and use you index finger to push the start button. Do not open the throttle (give it gas) at all. The bike should start up and go to a high idle when it does start. The point is, when starting a cold engine with the enricher, do not crack the throttle open at all. Leave it shut. If you open it the lest little bit, it renders the enricher circuit inoperative. Leave that throttle shut.
It is most likely fouled spark plugs. You can take them out and sand blast them, or buy new ones.
I had a CBR 954, and noticed that the spark plugs fouled out pretty easily because it runs so rich at startup (and I would shut it down during the 'warm up' phase).
Here is some more information for you:
What are signs or symptoms that spark plugs in a motorcycle need to be changed?
There are several things that could hint at bad plugs.
- Hard starting. - Slight to severe hesitation when you give the bike some throttle. - Stalling, especially when you give the throttle a good twist - uneven idling (tends to zoom up, or down, or sputters) - After running the bike for a little bit, take out one of the plugs. If the end of the plug is wet, its not firing, and it could be oil fouling the plug - take a look at the color of the end of the plug -- if it is white, its running too hot, and it can cause misfires - look at the same area, and if it is covered in black soot, it can be poor gas mixture and dirt in your tank causing it to foul
Hope this helps.
The choke is on your left hand handle bar, it is the black slide down lever.
1. Push the lever inward to choke the bike 2. give the throttle two turns and start the bike.
( do this so you don't drain your battery, even with a new battery you need give the bike the gas to start or you will have to recharge the battery)
You will hear the engine change pitch when it warms up, push the choke upwards and the bike should idle on its own.
Sounds like the idle circuit in the carb is restricted. The engine is running on the choke only. When the engine reaches a certain temp the fuelthat does get is more readily burned allowing you to back off the choke. The choke probsbly can't be completely opened? right? Fuel quality is also something to consider Oil content in fuel affects combustion temps and volatility. _good luck_Ned_
Most likely your slow (idle, pilot, whichever name you prefer) jets are plugged up in your carburetors. If the bike was stored improperly, or old/dirty gas was in the tank, these jets get plugged up pretty easily. One if not all are probably affected. The slow jet is where your bike pulls gas while it has a closed throttle position. Its the smallest jet in the carbs. When you twist the throttle, the needle (blocking the main jet from being used) opens up and allows gas to pass it and up into the vacuum of your carb and into your engine. If the idle jets are plugged you will usually notice that if you give the bike throttle it will run great in the higher RPM (3000+) but will die and be "glitchy" or boggy when going from no throttle to open throttle. You can try to cheat a carb clean by getting some carb cleaner and spraying that down the carbs, and using seafoam or equivalent to get those jets clean, but its always a better bet to see whats going on inside and clean those things so you get your throttle response back. Goodluck.
you need to clean out the carburetor, the gas isn't getting through it. the bogging is caused by all the gas going into the engine cause of the choke, it dumps raw fuel into the engine and cant burn it all, there fore bogging and acting sluggish, the back firing is caused by the same thing, too much fuel going into the engine and being deposited in the pipe and igniting occasionally, clean the carb out and it will run fine
When you are on the bike and riding do you still have the choke out? And stop spraying starter fluid into the carbs..bad bad bad.... bikes start with out that stuff and if you need it then something is wrong.. your gonna mess something up doing that....let me know about the choke and we will go from there...firstname.lastname@example.org
I also own a 1980 GS550L that had a similar problem, first thing I did to fix it is to add a can of seafoam to a half of tank of gas or less. The bike can run on pure seafoam if needed. Let it run for 3-5 minutes and shut if off. Let it sit for another 5 minutes then start the bike and take it for a ride. After 20 or 30 miles go ahead and fill the tank up with gas. Within a tank or so you should start noticing it idleing better and more power. On the GS550 the choke self adjusts as you use the throttle. There is no need to push it in the rest of the way. Even if you are extremely hard on the bike opening the throttle all of the way it will never go all the way in unless you push it all of the way in. I own two GS's and niether of which prefer to idle if I push the choke all of the way in. Once I did this and learned just to leave the choke alone and let it stay where it self adjusted as I rode the bike it has never stalled since at a light. You should be able to pick up a can of seafoam at any local autozone or advanced autoparts. Most likely your idle circuit on the carb is currently gummed up and the choke circuit is all that is that is working. Myself and freinds have used Seafoam to solve this problem and just about anything with a motor that was parked with gas in for an extended amount of time without any stabilizer added. It's well worth the $8 versus pulling the carbs apart.