Removed pivot shaft at 20,000 for inspection. Fit through trans case and at end support bearings -.007or more. Harley does not publish that information in their service manual and the Harley Dealer could not tell me the wear limits or if the condition was unsafe. Harley customer service stonewalled the issue telling me the fit of the pivot shaft was proprietary information not for the public. The shaft did not look worn, as the original tooling marks from manufacture were still visible on the bearing interface surfaces. Also there were no overt signs of wear on the support bearings. While riding there is a hard feel from the rear indicative of metal to metal hammering. I have no way of knowing if I replace the shaft with new if it will fit any better. I would have at least expected a slip fit to a light press fit on those components. I think Harley blew me off to avoid a warranty repair.
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Re: Swingarm pivot shaft fit poor
.007 (about the thickness of a piece of flagging tape for reference) maybe within spec.
Check your bike over thoroughly to see if you can find the source of the hammering sound. Use a flashlight, remove bags and trunk, these trunks do make some noise. Also check mufflers and supports particularly under the bags where they have sliding type mount.
If you don't find anything after inspection, do this.
File a complaint with the NHTSA right away, let the dealer and Harley know this.
File a complaint with the local BBB, it does not usually do any good, but it will be on their record.
Keep after them until you feel comfortable that it is OK or it's fixed.
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Mostly portable power tools of standard construction the motor armature can be removed from the gearbox quite easily. Once the other motor components have been removed, generally it is only the resistance of the drive end bearing of the armature in the gearbox housing that must be overcome. Sometimes the bearing is an easy push fit and sometimes quite a lot of force is needed and the casing should be expanded a little using heat.
Did you put lights (license plate, brake light, turn signals, running lights) onto the swingarm? When you cut off your fender, what did you do with the lighting? The lights expect to get ground (the negative side of your 12V system) through your frame. So the frame--your fender, your frame, the metal parts of the bike--act as the negative 'wire' for your system. In this case, I expect your swingarm is providing that ground instead, and the swingarm runs through a bearing/bushing/pivot point that is likely greased and not a good electrical conductor! You could try running a heavy primary wire from the bike frame or engine mounting point back to a point on the swingarm, preferably where your lights are mounted. Leave a loop or slack wire at the pivot point of the swingarm so you don't break the wire when you hit a bump. (By the way, I assume you really mean the starter breaker, not the starter relay...)
For a 2004 Softail - you never gave a model year.
1. Place rear fork (3) in the frame so that
the bores in the frame align with the bores in the fork.
Insert the bushings (10) into the spherical bearings (7)
from the inside.
2. Install pivot shaft.
a. Apply LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE to pivot shaft (4).
b. From the right side, install pivot shaft and spacers
with spacer collars facing transmission case.
c. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red) to
threads of pivot shaft nut. Install and tighten pivot
shaft nut to 90-110 ft-lbs (122-149.1 Nm).
Proper pivot shaft tightening is important to maintain rear fork
3. Check for freedom of rotation of the rear fork around the
bearings and that the fork and frame side members have
not been distorted when the pivot shaft nut was tightened.
4. Install the canister (California models),
fender extension (2), brake caliper and rear wheel.
5. Install both rear shock absorbers (9) using bolts and
Hi Bobsute2, the Harley Gods are giving this one a modest thumbs sideways which translates into maybe. You would have to double check not only wheel spacing but bearing aplication as the new and old have different part numbers. If your 05 axels fit the 84 bearings then I would clean, inspect for damage or flat spots and establish factory spec end play on the bearings, repack them with grease and begin the set up for wheel spacing in the front forks and rear swing arm. If the axels don't fit the 84 bearings then you might have to order ones that will. Will the bearings out of your 05 fit the 84 wheels? you would have go to your local dealers parts dept. and take measurments off an 05 and 84 bearing with veneer calipers. Chances are the name of the bearing manufacturer that makes your 05 bearing makes a bearing for your specific application. Also talk to someone in service for feasibility. You may or may not have to do minor machine work to the old wheels. Also rear wheel pulley spacers may be necessary as may brake rotors. Do your homework first take as many " ACCURATE " measurements as you can before getting involved with the actual swap. Good luck
I don't understand exactly what you mean by the bearing getting "stuck" in outer primary. The starter shaft has bearing race on the of it. This bearing race is also a nut that holds the shaft and it's parts together. The outer primary cover should have either a bearing or a bushing in it. The bushing or bearing in the outer primary provides support for the starter shaft while starting the engine.
Now, take the starter shaft fork loose and remove the shaft. Put the shaft into the bearing or bushing and make sure it turns freely. If not, you'll need to take the shaft and the outer primary to an automotive machine shop and have the bushing fitted to the "nut" on the end of the shaft. If you have a bearing in the outer primary, the nut must be turned down to fit it but neither of these cases are common, matter of fact, I've never heard of it having to be done.
If the "nut" on the outer end of the shaft seems to fit the bearing or bushing in the outer primary like it should, then your problem is an alignment problem. The outer primary, inner primary, and starter assembly are not aligned. There should be a couple of alignment pins in the inner primary that aligns the outer primary when installed. There are also two alignment pins in the starter gear housing on the backside of the inner primary. You may have to remove these pins in order to get everything to align properly.
Welcome to the world of foreign made Harley parts. Regrettably, we have to rely on foreign made parts to keep the older bikes running. Not all the parts fit like they should. I once spent three days trying to get a set of kick starter gears to work on a 72 FLH. I never did get them to work but managed to use the clutch gear to repair the transmission but I had to modify it to get it to work.
The first thing to do is determine if the oil is motor oil or gear oil. If the oil is leaking from the final drive end( gear oil ) it will have to be removed and inspected for bearing wear and have the seal replaced. If the oil is leaking from the motor and then running down the swingarm, the final drive and swingarm will have to be removed to replace the output shaft seal.
Thanks and I hope that this helps.
I had a 1978 XLCR and my experience was one where I would strongly suggest you get a Harley manual if available or an after market manual. Please bear in mind you are working on a 30 year old bike and what often the case is few recall that the 1979 (all the way up to 1981) models had a odd kinda of frame and the exhaust basically only fit that year. There are some other things like the square swingarm, oil tank was a little different. I hope this helps.