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Hi, I would suspect that the dual coil is the problem, normally on the Bonnie you have a spark every other stroke. Because the engine is a parallel twin (both pistons go up and down at the same time) you are firing both plugs every time the pistons are on the ignition stroke. This is why you get a shock the HT has to go somewhere and you are releasing this to the frame when you take out a plug. Dual output coils are really designed for 4 cylinder bikes where the second spark can be lost during the firing cycle. Most old Honda's CB400/500/550/750 used the dual coil ignition system. You need to have a coil for each plug as you had before. Hope this helps
You have the wrong coil for your bike. This coil is designed to be used with a "single fire" ignition system. If you have the stock ignition system on your bike, it is the original "dual fire" ignition. Harley has used a dual fire ignition system on all their bikes except a very few years ago. Try to exchange the coil for the correct one where you bought it.
hi you dont say what model kawasaki you have im assuming you have a transverse four like a z1000 generally speaking as you sit on the bike the outer cylinders are 1 and 4 the inner cylinders are 2 and 3 ,now again im assuming you have two coils, each coil has two plug leads
coming out of them coil number one will serve cylinders 1 and 4 it doesnt matter which of these leads goes to either 1or 4 as bikes use a wasted spark system and will spark on the exhaust stroke as well, coil number 2 will serve cylinders 2 and 3 again it wont matter which plug lead goes to either 2or3 ok now for the tough part
you need to find the sparking point for no1 cylinder remove no1 spark plug probably the outer left cylinder as your sat on the bike and turn the engine over by putting the bike in gear (only do this with no plug leads connected as it could start unexpectedly in gear ) and push or bump the bike gently with the clutch out to bring the piston to the top of the bore a small torch would be handy for this to shine down the plug hole you then need to find a timing cover on the outside of the engine
you may need a service manual for this as there are many variations but usally there are two pick up modules one for each coil the timing marks correspond to each coil with cylinder 1 at the top of the bore the timing mark should be near number 1 pick up module now that you know which module number one is follow the wiring back to the coil ,each pick up wiring is a different colour like black and orange wires for one coil and black and green for another when you have found number one coil attach plug leads to it and fit them to cylinders 1 and 4 you then fit the remaining coil with plug leads to 2 and 3 cylinders refit the spark plug take the bike out of gear and go for a start good luck with this
There is no firing order. Your bike has a coil that fires on both the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke (also called a wasted spark). Therefore either plug wire can go on either cylinder and the bike should run the same.On four cylinder bikes this meant that you could run four plugs using only two coils and two sets of points instead of four coils and four points.If the bike is running poorly try new spark plugs and new spark plug caps first(start with the cheap stuff). Next check the actual coil and pulse pick up or points. You may have to replace the coil only because the wires are cracked shorting.
if it is only the second cylinder most of these engines are 1.9 or 2.0 the sparkplugs are in the center your system has too coils each coil runs two cylinders in a lot of these cars the coil cracks or the wire goes bad you can,t just change the wires becouse you only get 2 wires in the box the other two wires are hooked to the coil and can,t be removed so you have to buy the coil with the wire hooked to it i believe the number 2 plug is the one with the coil wire attached the coil with the wire is about 70.00 bucks at the dealer i would check autozone first to see if they carey it
two wires coming in - black/white carries/supplies IGN + 12 to both coils and the ignition control module. Coil1 (left) is connected to the ICM by the yellow/blue wire while coil2 (right) is connected through the blue/yellow wire;
2 coming out - left coil powers 1 & 4 while right coil powers 2 & 3;
With a single fire ignition, you cannot swap the wires. A dual fire ignition, yes, but not a single fire. You need two things to get the cylinders to fire, spark and compression. Take the plugs out of both cylinders. Run a compression test on the rear cylinder. You need at least 100 PSI to get the cylinder to fire like it should.
Next, put your plugs in the wires, (they should already be in the wiresand grounded) and spin the engine over. Watch for the plugs to spark,especially the rear plug. If you have spark and compression it should run on the rear cylinder. If it still doesn't run, either something is way wrong with the ignition or a very bad air leak on the intake.
If you don't have spark at the rear plug, you need to check the coil. A single fire coil is different from a dual fire coil. The primary wiring is different as well. If you've got the primary wired incorrectly, you won't get spark at the rear plug. Go to the website of the manufacturer of your ignition system. Most of them have downloadable installation instructions. Check your primary wiring.
It could be a lot of different thing... compression
in the cylinder could be too low to support proper combustion, it also could be
electrical. If you don’t have compression gauges you cant really do that test
yourself, but as far as the electrical goes I can help First off you will need a water spray bottle, and a
spark plug wrench/socket and any tools needed to remove the coils and inspect
to see if they are still properly grounded (free of rust/corrosion, and any
breaks in the wire or wires insulation) First let the bike run for about 2-3 minutes to let
the exhaust system heat up, the exhaust from the cylinder that is running
should be allot hotter then the cylinder that isn’t (yes the none running
cylinder is still hot due to heat transfer so don’t touch it!!!) At this time spray a light mist of water on each of
the exhaust in the same spot on the first bend of the exhaust you can reach
closest to the cylinder (try not to spray cool water on the cylinder head, in
theory it could heat stress, causing it to crack) You should be able to tell
which exhaust is hotter by the rate of water evaporation, in turn telling your
which cylinder is running Once you’ve determined which cylinder is running or
not for sure take the spark plug and coil's and switch them with the non
running cylinder (its a good idea to ark them with a sharpie so they don’t get
mixed up, while switching them inspect the coils and spark plugs as well as all
grounds and wires for obvious signs of malfunction or breaks in wire insulation Once you have swapped out the know good components
from the running cylinder with the parts in question try to re-start the
bike< If it starts let it run again for another 2-3 min and test to see
which cylinder was running.... If the problem jumps cylinders you know its either
the coil or spark plug...if both cylinders start up now...it was an improper or
loss ground causing insufficient spark If it stays in the same cylinder then depending
weather you have an ecu or not, im not sure for that old of a bike, but you
could check the pins at the ecu for corrosion and clean them......if not then
your last option is to check the non running cylinder compression
it is probably not a weak spark. if you are determing this because the plug is sooting up and fouling and or the bike is missing or just not running right. your carbs need rebuilt. know of same problem with friends bike. tried eveything. coils igniter etc.. check out g man industries.com give them a call they will explain what is going on with your bike