Question about 2001 Yamaha YZF-R6

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How do you fix carborator promlems in a 2001 R6

I think I need to recarb or "jet" my bike. It'll run pretty smooth and then it will get real jumpy almost as if you were in teh wrong gear. Driving into the wind really messes with it, but driving with teh wind at your back is very smooth. Any thoughts? Do you think it needs have the carborator worked on? Does anyone have a link to a Yamaha 2001 R6 service manual that free?

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Carbies maybe needing a service, so to for valve lap and camwear. Plugs could be tired. Try better fuel or supplier, ethanol is getting into everything these days. Then of course the ELECTRICS !!

For Manual: Try this crew...just have to put up with junk mail for 12 days....Cheers.

http://www.pdfgeni.com/book/yamaha-2001-yzf-r6-service-MANUAL-pdf.html

Posted on May 13, 2010

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2002 r6 carburetor set up


Hi, Driftmiester if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/58-exhaust-fuel-delivery/176498-carbureted-2002-r6-tuning-tips.html
Carb Sync Yamaha R6 Quick Look At How It Done
1999 2002 Yamaha YZF R6 Service Manual R6 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Apr 28, 2012 | 2002 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

2003 r6 dies randomly when idling and runs rich


Hi, A_stranahan if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system your carburetors need retuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-how-guides/21751-how-sync-your-throttle-bodies-carburetors.html
Carb sync yamaha r6
2003 2004 Yamaha YZF R6 Service Manual R6 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Apr 26, 2012 | 2004 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

Bike running rough at lower revs


If the bike sat without being used over the winter It could be bad gas. if gas sits without being used for an extended period of time it destabilizes and gums up carborators and fuel injectors, you need to add a fuel stabilizer to gas when storing for winter. To fix the problem the gas has to be drained from tank, then refil with fresh gas and appropriate amount of carborator/fuel injector cleaner/treatment. Then start the bike and let it run it should clean itself out and start running smooth. If bike did not sit unused for winter its possible they installed the wrong plugs sometimes they talk you into spending more money on platinum or split fire/gimmick plugs (always use the exact same plug that came in the bike when it was new!!!!!)

Mar 17, 2012 | Triumph Rocket III Touring Motorcycles

1 Answer

My bike will not start without the choke open. i have a gas leak from the air filter line that has a t shaped link one having no end and an overflow bottle at the other end.The bike will not run at a...


Hi, Lromanovich and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Float needle and seat sticking.
5. Float level too low.
6. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
7. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
8. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
9. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
10. Slow fuel jet clogged.
11. Faulty fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need please Click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/57-garage-mechanical-help/129997-2001-r6-wont-idle.html
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-maintenance-technical/135305-cold-starting-problem.html
1999 2002 Yamaha YZF R6 Service Manual R6 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Aug 19, 2011 | 1999 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

My bike backfires bad but it idles perfect and the pipe gets real hot fast


Could be you have air leaks in the intake manifold connections causing a lean burn situation, which can cause loud noises from the exhaust, fireing back through the carb/injectors, and the pipe and engine to get extremely ho
with engine running, spray carb cleaner over and around the intake connections. If you hear the engine change tone or smooth out in it's running, you have found the leak. Fix the leak and the other problems could go away. If the bike has been setting for a length of time, your jets and passages could be gummed and needing a cleaning. If there is a possibility of gummed jets, pour 1/4 to 1/2 can of SeaFoam into the gas tank, lock down the front brake and rock the bike back and forth to mix the gas and SeaFoam. Start the bike and run at a high idle for a few minutes. Shut it down and let it cool, then do it again. If it is gummed or dirty jets, they should start to clean up shortly.

Apr 14, 2011 | 1986 Suzuki LS 650 Savage

1 Answer

When i take off from a stop light my bike spits and sputter from 1000 rpm to 3500rpm when it reaches 4000 rpm it starts to clear up.


Hi, Rumblinstump and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables misaligned or misrouted.
2. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
3. Intake system air leak.
4. Vacuum piston malfunction.
5. Pinholes or torn diaphragm.
6. Accelerator pump leaking or no output.
7. Plugged bowl vent or overflow.
8. Fuel level in bowl too low.
9. Restricted fuel supply passages.
10. Plugged jets or passages.
11. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
12. The enrichner valve not seated or leaking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Low RPM Sputtering
bike sputtering on take off
1999 2002 Yamaha YZF R6 Service Manual R6 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Mar 08, 2011 | 2001 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

Symptoms of coil problems


try some seafoam from Autozone 1/3 can to two gallon gas...ride it for about 10 miles see if it"ll clear up. also drain out fuel filter and fill it with seafoam before you ride it. can i get some feed back thanks.

Apr 04, 2010 | 2000 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

I have the same problem with my 2001 yzf r6


You could try it yourself, if you have the service manual, the right tools, and have a decent amount of mechanical experience. The valve train is shim-under-bucket on the R6 (I think) and is tricky to measure, not to mention pretty tight for getting your hands into. As this is generally considered a scheduled maintenance, most Yamaha service shops are going to have a pretty standard rate; Probably around 4 hours or so. Personally, unless you have the time on your hands and are really confident, I'd take it to the shop. Bikes are for riding; Not laying around the garage in pieces.

Aug 29, 2009 | 2001 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

2001 yamaha yzf-r6 with a running problem


Pull the slides from the throat of the carbs, Move the clip on the jet needles one notch lower, two notches at the most. Simple and didn't cost $400.

May 06, 2009 | 2001 Yamaha YZF-R6

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