Question about 2004 Suzuki RM-Z 250

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Motor noise my 2005 rm z 250 is making a clacking noise. valves are good .006 lash. top end and head are fresh.

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Check the lash of the wrist pin? They do make a clacking noise if too much play is involved

Posted on May 12, 2010


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3.8 dodge runs great but has a very loud ticking/tapping under valve cover gets louder when warmed up or more rpm

Not familiar with this specific engine, but I think you have adjustable rocker arms to adjust valve lash. May just need adjustment, but inspection will show if something is damaged.

Jan 22, 2015 | 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan

1 Answer

Its making sorta a tapping noise not really a knock, got good oil pressure not over heating its running good and the knock/tap is not getting any worse. Its sounds like its coming from the top end of the...

Could be a bad hydraulic lash adjuster. Use a mechanics stethoscope to find from which head it comes. Then you will have to remove the valve cover from that side (cold engine) and feel each adjuster if its spongy. They should all be hard. You will need to rotate the crankshaft with a socket on the balancer bolt to be sure that each valve is closed at a time.

Sep 25, 2013 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Noise startup

Have your valve lash adjusted. Overhead cams need the lash done every 25-30K otherwise after some time they make a loud ticking sound. If the motor makes a "Knocking" sound, it may be a lower end noise, and there is no adjustment for that.

Jun 17, 2013 | Hyundai Santa Fe Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2005 chrysler 300-can hear the engine noises when the ride used to be more quiet?

Hi there:
Check this information about "engine noses"...

A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Jul 19, 2012 | 2006 Chrysler 300

1 Answer

Can hear ticking sound around engine

Hello jerry...does this "ticking" sound like it is coming from the top of the engine...the cylinder head area? You can take a short piece of hose, like a heater hose or even a garden hose, place one end to your ear and the other on the engine, move it around and u can pinpoint the area it is coming from better. I would say that your valves are probably making the ticking noise and need to be adjusted. Either that or an exhaust leak around the pipe and cylinder head, If you haven't adjusted the valves they probably are due for it. I will go ahead give you the specs for them.
Valves are to be adjusted and set on a COLD engine.

Intake Valve .001 to .003

Exhaust Valve .003 to .005

As you can see this is not much of a normal wear will cause them to start making noise once they get out of adjustment. I hope this helps & good luck with your bike.

Jul 15, 2011 | 2000 Suzuki GZ 250 Marauder

1 Answer

Whenever I started my pulsar 180 cc the engine starts making some noise at constant intervals and this is due to the timing chain in the engine or anything else. Please tell me how to sort out this problem

If it is making a tapping noise at a constant speed the valve lash gap is probably to large. It can however be a sign of a worn rod end bearing also. The valve lash should be .004 for intake and .006 for exhaust. As far as the rod end bearing the only way to measure it easily is to disassemble the lower end of the engine and use plasti-gage (available at any auto parts store) to check the gaps in the rod end to the crankshaft journal clamp up gap. You remove the lower rod end half sector then place the plasti-gage strip across the mating surfaces. The amount that the strip spreads out or does NOT spread out will indicate the actual gap after re-clamping the rod end to the crankshaft. Once you remove the end cap again you will note the plasti-gage indication.

I would start with adjusting the valve tappet lash settings first. More often than not this is the problem. Hopefully you understand the importance of ensuring the adjustments are made when the piston is at TDC. Top dead center.

Thanks for using FixYa.


Jun 10, 2010 | Motorcycles

2 Answers

My honda crf 150r ran out of oil in the transmission and i put oil it again and it feeled seized but then it started but its making a weird ticking noise and it keeps stalling out what could the problem be

Check your clutch pack first ( fingers crossed ) .
Have a good listen to the engine to isolate the area of the noise ( putting your ear on the handle of a long screwdriver and putting the blade of the screwdriver on your motor is a good trick).
The noise is most likely to be a broken needle roller bearing .

Mar 30, 2010 | 2005 Honda CRF 250 R

1 Answer

My 1992 dodge stealth rt has a clacking noise from engine when running .we have determine the noise is comming from the lash adjusters.what should we do .

The lash adjusters are hydraulic and will have to be replaced. They can be replaced without removing the head, you just have to remove the necessry intake & parts that restrict your access to removing the valve covers, then remove the rockers (that's where the adjusters are of course), replace the adjusters and reassemble. Make sure you note the direction of everything, once reassembled it should fit exactly as it did before, with a little less slack.

All engine parts like this need oil. Soak the valve lash adjusters in oil overnight before installing, preferably in a warm location, or place a warm light next to the container you put them in, they work like valve lifters, just smaller.

Good luck

Feb 10, 2010 | 1992 Dodge Stealth

2 Answers

How do I repair valve lash on a 2001 ford

it is possible lifters noise or rokers change oil and use thiker oil and see if noise get less

Nov 02, 2009 | 2001 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Rattle in top end

Have you adjusted the valve lash lately?
With engine COLD....
Valve Clearance Intake: 0.11 - 0.15mm ( = 0.004 - 0.006")
Valve Clearance Exhaust: 0.16 - 0.20mm (= 0.006 - 0.008")
29mm shim kits with a wide range of sizes are available from aftermarket dealers. (motion pro shim tool works great)
Also a weak valve spring will cause the valve to "float" and make a rattle well as excessive camshaft end play.
Make sure your valve train is getting proper lubrication.
Good luck....i hope this helps

May 25, 2009 | 1981 Yamaha XJ 650

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