Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard

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Not charging battery

Which side is the stator on

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The stator is on the left side of the bike while you are sitting on it.

It is underneath the primary cover, the largest one on that side. It can be reached by removing the primary cover, primary chain, clutch basket and the sprocket on the end of the crankshaft. I myself would not tackle a job like this at home. Gaskets are another issue on reassembly. The stator is a coil like winding of copper wire around which rotates a heavy round metal flywheel type piece that has magnets afixed inside of it, as the flywheel rotates around the stator, it creates the electricity, just like a hydroelectric generator you have seen on TV only on a smaller scale.

Posted on May 12, 2010


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How to check charging

If your battery is not good even though you might get a surface charge that is okay it will likely not charge sufficiently to operate the starter and other electrical systems of the bike.

The connection where the alternator stator wires plug into the regulator could be corroded/dirty and need to be cleaned and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner and protected with dielectric grease because corroded wires going to the battery or alternator from the stator or the regulator will affect the ability of the charging system to properly charge a battery.

Initially check the voltage with a voltmeter across the battery posts at about 2000 rpm. If it is between about 14.3 and 15 VDC it is charging okay If it is above 15 VDC you have an overcharging problem which is not being properly controlled by the regulator. If it is charging at less than that you could check the regulator ground first by running a wire from the regulator frame or body directly to the battery negative post and if that does not increase the charging voltage then the ground is okay so next you could check the stator integrity.

To check the STATOR. Turn ignition key switch OFF, then disconnect the voltage regulator connector from alternator stator wiring. THEN connect an ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale with one lead into either of the stator sockets and the other lead to a good ground. And test for continuity - a good stator will show no continuity (0 ohms) across either stator socket - any other reading indicates a grounded stator which must be replaced. THEN remove the ground lead and insert lead it into the other stator socket - the resistance (with ohmmeter still set on the RX1 scale)should be 0.1-0.2 ohms - if the resistance is lower a stator short is indicated. Which means that the stator is damaged and must be replaced. - if the resistance is higher (OL on meter), an open is indicated and again, the stator is damaged and must be replaced. You should check socket 1 to 2 then 1 to 3 then 2 to 3.
Before testing short out the ohmmeter leads against each other and if they do not produce a reading of0 ohms subtract the reading you do get from any readings you get doing the stator checks in order to get accurate stator circuit readings, otherwise you may have out of range reading due to the internal and/or lead resistance of the ohmmeter.

May 30, 2014 | 2003 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

1 Answer

My Grizzly 07 / 700 will not charge, when I put my battery on the charger it charges for a short time then the gharger goes into default. I had the battery test at 3 different locations and they say it is...

Your Charging Stator seems to be the culprit. The Battery when it is STATIC should be 12.4-12.8 Volts. When running, there is a Draw from any electrical component. The Stator works as the Alternator/Generator on your vehicle and should boost the Voltage Output up to 13.4-14.2. Seeing that it drops, it is telling me that you have either lost Ground or the Stator is defective and needs to be tested for Continuity and OHM's. This will give you something to troubleshoot and rectify your problem.

Mar 01, 2014 | Vehicle Parts & Accessories

1 Answer

Excite the stator

Take a wire from the negative side of the battery and just a quick touch to the stator or plug connection will excite it for you.

Jan 13, 2014 | MotoBatt 1988-2000 honda trx300fw fourtrax...

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Stator 1989 Yamaha virago

The battery doesn't charge, the alternator charges andthebattery receives that charge, I need a little more inf o

Aug 02, 2012 | Yamaha Xv1100 Virago Xv 1100 1989-1998...

1 Answer

Replaced Battery, Stator, and Rectifier on Vstar 650 and still not charging battery?

Hi, Chrislbryan the following is a comprehensive charging system test that is guaranteed to the find issue with your system.
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Battery not Charging Yamaha Star Forum
Yamaha XVS650 Service Manual
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Yamaha star XVS650P Owner Manual

Jun 10, 2012 | Yamaha V Star Classic 650 Motorcycles

1 Answer

It wont charge , runs fine but drains the battery down to nothing, just put a new battery on this springso I'm pretty sure thats not it where is the stator located and do you have any other suggestions for...

Ok, you failed to tell me what year and model we're talking about here so my information will be more generalized.

First, test the output of you charging system at the battery. The battery must be fully charged for this test. Make sure all connections are tight and clean. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to do the test. Connect the red meter lead to the positive post, the black lead to the negative post. Put the meter function switch in "DC VOLTS< 20 Volts or greater scale. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should read 14.5-15.0 volts at the battery.

To test the stator, follow the wires from the regulator down to the engne case and where the connector where they plug in. Unplug the connector and inspect the metal contacts inside the engine case or connector on the stator side. Set you meter function switch to AC VOLTS> 25 Volts or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each metal contact in the engine side of the connector with a test meter lead. You should read 25 volt AC or better.

If the stator test good, replace your regulator. make sure the ground is good on the regulator.

Good Luck

Aug 30, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail...

2 Answers

Battery will not charge

To check your charging system, first, you must have a fully charged battery in the bike. Start the bike up and using a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) put the red lead on the positive post and the black lead on the negative post. Put the meter in DC Volts, 50 volt range. Idle the bike up a bit and you should read about 14.5 to 14.8 volts.

If you don't get anymore than 12.6 volts at the battery. Go to the left side of the engine and pull the connector for the stator at the front of the engine. Put your meter in AC volts, 50 volt range. Touch one meter lead to one pin and the other to the other pin. It makes no difference which lead goes where just don't allow the lead to touch the engine case. Your meter should read 25-35 Volts AC at this point. Notice the AC, not DC, voltage at the stator. Make sure your meter is in DC at the battery test and AC at the stator test. If you have less than 15 volts at the stator, your stator is bad. If the voltage is where it should be at the stator, you voltage regulator is probably bad.

Good Luck

May 29, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

The stator is not charging the batteries

as you know the stator charges the battery there is a wire that has a wire that looks like a snake that just ate rat it is called a diode it lets ac voltage change to dc voltage that charges the battery this diode only lets the voltage goe one way only disconect the connection and take a voltmeter put on dc volts put the red line the diode side the black to ground start the engine should have current going out


Nov 03, 2009 | Craftsman Garden

1 Answer

Battery keeps going dead

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

To your query, there are 2 major components of the charging system:
  • stator - left side of the engine itself;
  • regulator - right side, below the seat; would be behind the chrome cover below the battery.

A common problem with a VStar is burned, pitted or corroded terminal pins/connectors from the stator to the regulator.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Sep 05, 2009 | 2002 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom

2 Answers


Have you checked the output of the stator? When the bike is running above idle - say 3000 rpm's, you should see a voltage across the battery terminals of at least 14.1 volts.

If the stator is good, then I would next look at the amount of lights or accessories installed.

Also, if I remember correctly, the early 80's GL's were notorious for having a problem with the 3 yellow wires coming from the stator. The plastic connector would eventually corrode and either kill the stator or burn completely.

Jul 06, 2009 | 1985 Honda GL 1200 Interstate Gold Wing

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