Question about 2003 Yamaha WR 250 F

2 Answers

2001 model wr 250 f, can't seem to set carb up. Was riding at sea level when bike was new - ran well, good throttle respone. Now at 1800' and 8-9 years later, bike won't idle and engine bogs when you snap the throttle?

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  • laine_j May 09, 2010

    I meant to say... "bike won't idle [without the choke]and engine bogs..."

  • laine_j May 09, 2010

    Since riding in the mountains, I have had my bike in for pro service where they tuned the carb and it ripped after - no doubt. It seems though the settings are lost after 200 hours of riding. This can't mean I need pro tuning every 200 hours does it? Is there nothing I can do?

  • laine_j May 09, 2010

    Performance degrades slow over time, then suddenly after a wipe out, I can't get my bike started again and the same symptoms reappear - need to choke to start (even when hot) then turn down choked idle speed so I make it back to the trucks.

  • laine_j May 09, 2010

    'Live Chat' would be good, but not set up.

    Gas lid hose is ok. Float could be sticking, but I've had that carb apart numerous times for inspection and cleaning and tweeking without success. Float moves freely after reassembly and still same problems.

  • laine_j May 09, 2010

    Ya, after ridding for half the season and then after a spill or two.

  • laine_j May 10, 2010

    Accelerator pump is good. What is there to do with the air shut off valve and what's it for?

  • laine_j May 11, 2010

    Thanks. I got my bike to idle after idle jet adjusting. It never came with a fuel filter. I'm putin one in today. With clean & set jets and no choke, bike doesn't bog with throttle snap.

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  • Master
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With regards to changing altitudes from sea level to 1800ft. the only change you would have to make if any would be the idle adjustments with regards to the mixture at idle . I would recommend removing the carburetor for a complete rebuild , including the acid bath, to completely dissolve and eliminate any varnish residue or other petroleum byproducts that have accumulated within the small orfices in the idle circuit and power circuit. Also , I would drain and flush the fuel tank , fuel lines, and any other fuel circuit components before the carb inlet. Finally , install a new fuel filter and air filter. When you reassemble the carb, carefully screw in and seat both set screws. Then, set the power screw 1.5 turns from the seated stop. Set the idle screw 3/4 of a turn from the seated stop. Finally , adjust the throttle plate set screw 2.5 turns clockwise after the screw contacts the metal with the throttle plate fully closed. From there, the bike should start. Get it to idle first. Then , you can play with your power screw one corner of a turn, in and out, at a time, while you drive it accelerating hard, feeling what it does, make an adjustment, repeating the process until you have achieved a nice powerful smooth acceleration without loading or hesitating.

Posted on May 11, 2010

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  • Master
  • 440 Answers

Hi
At high altitudes the carburetor needs specialist adjustment.
I highly recommend JDjetting kits for all altitudes
They say :-
James Dean designed the JDJetting kits so that you don't have to be an expert to get professional high performance results!! Even better, technical support is provided.
The James Dean custom jetting kit is designed to improve throttle response throughout the range by using specially made multi-taper needles. These are based on the most popular settings used by new generation MX and off-road riders around the globe and the results are impressive.
Exceeds the performance of the popular EMN, DTM, and other standard factory needle options
Low and High altitude custom designed triple taper needles
Main Jets included
Spare Needle Clip
Dyno Tested
Developed and tested from sea level to 12000ft elevation
You can’t buy this from any OEM factory or aftermarket. It’s JD’s prescription for the headpipe blues.
Go Here :-
http://www.jdjetting.com/

Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

Posted on May 09, 2010

  • 4 more comments 
  • steve May 09, 2010

    Hi
    How does the look after 200 hours use?
    Ride Safe
    Bike-Doc


  • steve May 09, 2010

    Hi
    1st See if it is the same with fuel cap open (blocked
    cap breather)
    2nd See if tapping the carb bowl releases the carb floats - after a spill they may stick so very little petrol gets to carb

    Ride Safe
    Bike-Doc



  • steve May 09, 2010

    I am available for 'Live Chat' at the moment if you need more info

    Ride Safe
    Bike-Doc


  • steve May 09, 2010

    Is it only after the bike has been dropped (after 200 hours) that this occurs?
    Ride Safe
    Bike-Doc


  • steve May 09, 2010

    Hi
    Have you checked the air shutoff valve & the accelerator pump ?
    Ride Safe
    Bike-Doc


  • steve May 11, 2010

    Hi
    I'm back online (UK GMT)
    I don't know why this problem gets offered to other experts so quickly, especially after all my research into this & comments to you
    Hope he gives you some good ideas without having to go over the same stuff again, as he wont be able to see my solutions or comments
    That's just how the site works I suppose

    Ride Safe
    Bike-Doc




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