a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You have a sight glass for the oil level - it's near the front of the engine, down near the shifter pivot point. It's a little tough to see and it's a 2 person job to check the oil level since the bike has to be vertical to check the level. Check without the engine running. There are two small grooves on the right side of the sight glass to indicate high and low level. You want to maintain the higher level.
Taking off the mufflers won't mess up your compression ratio. But - you need to have some form of muffler to create a little back pressure. Open pipes will backfire like crazy and the open pipes can lead to warped and cracked exhaust valves. Not advised. Get a pair of Cobra slip-ons or something like that - I would not suggest running open pipes.
Hi, Hks005 if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future pour in a bottle of fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner for you FI folks at least 2 times a year and before storage.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging remove the leads and let the battery sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a volt meter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank, google " how to clean a motorcycle gas tank" find a couple forums to view the different options available.
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a carb dip or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and cracks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. TTR 90 wont start carb TTR50 Starting problems YAMAHA TT R90 Owner Service Manual OEM parts for Yamaha YAMAHA TT R90 Owner Manual
I have two ttr 125's and my son has another, all 05's but i ran into this with a friends 02 as well. All ttr 125's are cold blooded bikes to say the least. the cold starting procedure that works is to first lean the bike over to the left till it dribbles a little gas on the floor. hit the electric start for a few seconds only, wait 20 to 30 seconds and do it again. holding the starter button down and cranking will do nothing but flood the bike out. short busts only, dont give it any gas ever, this will also do nothing. first it will start for a brief moment then die, hit the button for about 3 to 4 revelutions and wait, the next time it will start again, most likely only for a few seconds again, repeat this and each time it will run a little longer till it keeps running on it own. the best way to get your ttr to start easier is to cut the top of the airbox off, this will give the bike more power (youll see why when you look at the tiny opening) and allow you to spray starting fluid under the back of the seat right into the airbox. it makes starting a cold bike 5 times faster. usually only 2 repeats of the starting procedure.
Check the intake for leaks. Get it running and spray a little carb cleaner around the intake to see if the RPM's change. If they do then you have an intake leak. The jets may be clogged up but I do not think you need to increase the size at all
it has to be 12v. the bike runs on a 12v system. before u check the cdi. check the plug. and the gaping. i had the same problem but it was the pulse coil. the ttr 225 is more of a beginer bike it comes from the factory very lean. so it might not be that you have a low spark because they are not ment to be fast they just have a low spark from the factory. check your carb and the jets. that might just be your problem. let me know how it works out.
2 stroke poop! A certain amount of this is normal due to the oil/gas mixture you're burning. However, type of 2stroke oil used, amount used, and jetting of the bike can all affect the amount. If it's coming all the way out the back, it's time to repack the muffler. If this is the case, you'll probably notice your bike is a little louder and raspier than before. This also impacts performance negatively and, eventually, the inside of your muffler can start smouldering.
Oil in the air filter could mean tht the piston rings are weak thus throwing oil from the breather to the airfilter via the breather pipe.
Some filters do require a little oil like thK & N ones maybe in your bike it was over filled if at all.
You can run the engine with out the air fliter and see if theres smoke coming out of the breather pipe, if it does thn you will have to replace the piston rings or more over rebore the block and replace the piston kit.