Question about 1989 Honda VT 1100 C Shadow

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Can hear fuel pump pumping but won't start. Unloading bike off trailer and it ended up on it's left hand side. No sign of damage

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  • Honda Master
  • 41,663 Answers

Hi, Ericarbriggs #4 is jumping up and down waving a red flag yelling "PICK ME PICK ME" before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter have failed or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
1992 VT1100 will not start
Problem Solved
Honda shadow vt1100 Owners Workshop Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VT1100C2 Owner Manual Page 3

Posted on Jul 07, 2017

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 69 Answers

SOURCE: 82 aspencade gl 1100 carbs keep flooding?

It sounds to me you may have a vacum issue with your tank that is causing to much fuel to get deliverd to the carbs, try checking all the hoses on the tank to me sure they are in the correct place.If so then check the patcock to be sure that it is not allowing to much fuel through.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

cape cod bob
  • 292 Answers

SOURCE: starting problem

http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

free downloadable service manual here.
sounds like bad pump if you cant hear it, or possibly bad wiring to it. check all the ground connections you can find

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

soloxilu
  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 VT1100C2 Intermittent Fuel Starvation

No the fuel pump will not fail more than once. When a fuel pump goes out it just goes. Will not work after that what so ever. Sounds like bad gas lines. I had this problem. I replaced my old gas line after the old one cracked when I did this I cut the new on to long. When I put my tank back on the old one pinched. It would run fine for a few min then sputter and die as the gas in the line ran out. I let it sit for a min and more gas filled the line and would start the process over. Try replacing the fuel lines and make sure they are cut to the right length and do not kink when the tank is on. It could also be a dirty petcock. I had let my bike sit for 6 months while in another state and the gat tank got dirty somehow. I got it running and same problem putters and dies. Neighbor took out the petcock and used an air hose to clean it out and it worked like new.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

Benimur
  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: bikes been dropped and need to reset fi light, how??

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, check / bypass or replace the bank angle sensor.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Posted on Apr 09, 2010

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: bike wont start unless we jumper the fuel pump

Even though the bike spins over well the battery's on CBR's have to be in tip top condition because the capacitor in the CDI will not release the pulse to fire the coils even though it seems well charged, does this only happen from cold and have you run your jump cables from the battery first as feeding power through the fuel pump will also back feed the battery.

Hope this helps

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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To remove a 2011 XL fuel tank FIRST purge the fuel supply line of high pressure gasoline by removing the left side cover, removing the fuel pump connector from the ECM caddy cover (2), unplugging the fuel pump connector, starting the engine and allowing it to run until it quits and then operating the starter for another 3 seconds, turning the ignition switch to OFF, releasing/disconnecting the fuel tank quick-connect fitting, removing the main fuse, removing the seat and draining the fuel tank, (If inserting a tube into the fuel tank to remove fuel do so only on the right side to avoid damage to the fuel pump assembly on the left side of the tank interior.)THEN remove the vent hose, cable clip securing the fuel pump wiring harness, unplug the unplug the fuel pump connector, remove the bolt thread protective caps, lock nuts, screws and washers from the front and rear of the fuel tank, put a clean soft cloth or towel over the front of the fuel tank protect it from damaging contact with the top fork clamp, lift the rear of the fuel tank up, remove the fuel pump harness from the clip on the frame backbone tube and remove the fuel tank from the bike to a workbench area. Where the fuel pump assembly can be removed if necessary and where the tank can be cleaned if necessary.

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Fuel pump cycling long time bike won't fire,has good spark.


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2 and/or BAS).
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
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