Filter was properly oiled w/ k&n oil. lower portion of filter is now a brown motor oil color and is dripping a drop every 3-5miles. it looks like it might be leaking from where the filter mounts to the engine and is dripping down the back of the filter and getting sucked in on the bottom with the air intake. is there a gasket that might have blown and is it an easy home repair?
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Re: k&N air filter mount is leaking oil
Welcome to the world of Harley Davidson the crankcase breathes threw this passage and EPA loves it ,the older models used to vent out and onto the chain to help lube it.So this is a normal event as long as there is not to much oil
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there are a lot unanswered questions in your description here, but I will try to give you a few ideas.
when was the oil last changed? is it leaking from where the filter is attached, if so filter needs to be removed & either put back on or replaced. be sure before installing new filter to wet the filter gasket with a little new oil before installation, this helps with seal.
is there a hole in oil filter, if so it needs replacing.
is the filter on front or rear lower portion of engine? check to see where oil is coming from, it may be a front or rear crank shaft seal. which is a major project.
keep in mind that when the engine is running & also when vehicle is in motion the oil will be blowing back & occasionally make it look like the oil is leaking from somewhere else.
if you start by getting under vehicle ( make sure vehicle is properly blocked up so no chance of falling on you. do not trust the jack alone to hold up vehicle) and try to look & see where the oil is coming from.
there only certain places that oil can leak, gaskets, seals, line connections ect...
Because you mentioned the smoke and hard to start it could be that the engine is flooding or overfilled. Check for fuel in the crankcase. Be sure cranckcase is not overfilled. An engine with too much oil will force excess oil out somewhere. If the mower has been turned on its side lately it could have put oil in places that it should not be and its trying to burn off this oil. Be sure your air filter is not saturated with oil or fuel.
If all that checks out we will look for oil leaks.
As far as oil leaks go the three most likely places for your engine to leak are from the head gasket, dipstick tube seal, or the sump gasket.
Check for proper torque on the head bolts ( 125 inch pounds). Headbolts can come loose over time. After that check that the seal at the bottom of the dipstick tube is in good shape and a tight fit. This seal usually leaks when the engine is running because at rest the oil level is just below this seal. Lastly, if everything else checks out then the sump gasket is leaking. To replace the sump gasket drain oil from motor and remove air filter. remove blade and self propel belt. remove engine stop cable. remove the three motor mount bolts from under deck and remove motor. place on work bench upside down. some fuel may run out carb or tank cap. remove sump bolts from bottom of motor and remove sump. Do not remove governor gear or cam gear from cranckcase. At this time it will be obvious where the gasket has failed. Remove old gasket. It may need to be scraped off. Take care to keep material from going into crankcase and clean out any that does fall in. install new gasket and torque sump to proper specs and reassemble.
This is not good. It means that antifreeze is getting into the oil. This is usually caused by damaged intake manifold gaskets. Replace the lower intake manifold gaskets and change the oil. Run the engine long enough to reach operating temperature and change the oil and filter again. Then cross your fingers and hope that there is no bearing damage. If the engine is knocking, you will have to replace the engine.
At this interval it would be a good idea to check your drive belts, coolant hoses, motor mounts, suspension bushings, check for any motor oil leaks which could occur from any leaking gaskets. It is also a good idea to have change your spark plugs at this point as well. Normal spark plugs last around 50k miles before there electrodes start wearing out and losing their heat index value. They may still be functioning but at the cost of a lower grade spark and less than optimal fuel economy. If you've never replaced your power steering, brake, and transmission fluid and filter now would be a good time. I'd recommend replacing with synthetic grade fluids. I'd also recommend changing your motor oil on any vehicle every 2500-3k miles and adding a quality motor oil like castrol or valvoline, I personally use and recommend stp oil treatment, 1 bottle added at every oil change as well as marvel mystery oil in both my motor oil and added to my gas tank, this is remarkable stuff which keeps the internal components of your engine and fuel injection system clear of residual build ups. Be sure to also check and replace if necessary your air filter as well. good luck and hope it lasts another 90k miles for you
Removal & Installation (2.4L) Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect air temperature sensor harness connector. Remove air cleaner assembly. Remove evaporative purge solenoid from bracket, and position aside. Disconnect field harness connector from generator. Remove B+ terminal nut and wire from generator. Remove accessory drive belt. Remove generator mounting bolts. Remove generator. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten fasteners to specification.
Removal & Installation (3.3L & 3.8L) Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect field harness connector from generator. Remove B+ terminal nut and wire from generator. Raise and support vehicle. Remove right front lower splash shield. Remove accessory drive belt. Remove lower engine oil dip stick mounting bolt, located near engine oil filter. Remove harness from engine oil dip stick. Remove 3 generator mounting bolts. Lower vehicle. Remove engine oil dip stick tube from vehicle. Roll and remove generator. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten fasteners to specification. See
Oil capacity is the same as the 250.
1.5 ltrs at oil & filter/s change.
700mls to 1ltr without filter change.
This bike has what is called a dry sump. You fill your oil at the filler point that is located in front of the fuel tank on the frame. It uses the front frame tube as a container for the oil & pumps it back & forth to the motor. This bike has two oil filters.A cartridge type one located behind the small round cover held in place with two bolts that is located on the clutch cover.The other filter is a screen attatched to the spiggot which the hose from the frame(front bottom) slides over. Remove the hose(frame front bottom), undo the spiggot that the hose was attatched to,and as you pull it down to remove it you will see the fine wire screen that is attatched to it.
When you remove the oil filler plug(in front of the fuel tank)you'll notice it has a dipstick on it. When you fill the tank the oil level will seem high. Run the bike first(to let the oil circulate) then check the level on the dipstick. It will now be much lower. adjust the level to the correct level & away you go!
I recomend changing the the cartridge oil filter & cleaning the screen every time you change the oil. Use a high quality oil like Motul & change the oil regularly.
Also keep your air filter clean & oiled properly.
Hope htis helps
Regards Andrew Porrelli
The brown oil is water mixed into the oil. If I recall correctly the DT bikes were air cooled. The water would be condensation in the gearbox. Just drain the oil and ride more often. If the bike is water cooled the two seals on the water pump shaft are bad. This is not a major repair. The bike probably needs new crank seals. Go ahead and clean the carb as water and trash may have accumulated restricting the fuel flow to the motor. Install an in-line fuel filter.
Use TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL in the pump. If not using an automatic oil pump, then mix the gas and oil 32 to 1. That equals 4 ounces of TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL to one gallon of gas. NEVER use motor oil in the gas. Only two stroke engine oil. Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well. < < READ CLOSELY > > Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.
I believe the other one is underneath the motor mount, which means you will have to remove the mount of you need access to it..
Suggest you check your engine oil, it should be either light brown if just replaced, and black if you have over 30K miles on it.
If the oil is brown like in color, maybe you have an intake manifold leak and anti freeze is getting into the motor oil (Bad Bad) Check for leaks in the heater core inside the car and see if the rugs are wet.
Check radiator for discoloration in the fin areas and tank areas. Finally check your radiator cap, maybe its defective and you loose antifreeze through the overflow.