Question about 2000 Yamaha WR 400 F

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I have a yamaha 450 big bear it wont start off the button ,i have 2 live feeds going in to the solenoid when the ignition is on if i short the solenoid across it turns over and starts any idears?cheers harvey

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Listen near the solenoid while trying to start--if you get a fairly loud 'click', the primary circuit is ok, but the solenoid heavy contacts are not making--repair or replace the solenoid if sealed. If no click, check the small terminals with a test light. The light should go out on one when the start switch is pushed. If the light never comes on, check the other small terminal--it should be lit at all times whenever the ignition switch is on, even when the start switch is pushed. If it goes out too, there is a poor connection between the ignition switch and the solenoid. If neither terminal loses power, trace the start button circuit back to the solenoid. It is likely open somewhere between--usually a push-together connection. Hope this make sense and helps!

Posted on May 07, 2010

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350 big bear quad bike won't start unless I pull start it.


Hi, Connor and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Faulty ignition switch.
6. Faulty starter button.
7. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
8. Security alarm needs a reset.
9. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
10. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
11. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
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I have a yamaha fzr600 that won't start. I put the key in the on position and get a clicking sound from one of the relay switches that is wired to the ignition box.


Is it a single click as you turn the ignition on or a series of clicks as you press the starter button? A series of clicks points to the starter solenoid being faulty. Follow the positive cable from the battery and you should find the relay (suzuki's are cylindrical in shape I believe) and see if the clicking is here. If so. with the ignition on short across the 2 bolted cable connections momentarily with a screwdriver and see if it turns over or starts. Careful, don't allow the short to touch the frame. Hope this helps.

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P1655 came up on diagnostic test for my 1997 Pontiac grand prix. What is it and where is it located on engine? How much is it gonna cost?you


It could just be a electrical problem !
A DTC P1655 set indicates an improper voltage level has been detected on the EVAP canister purge solenoid circuit , Can you check electric circuits with a volt ohm meter ?
Diagnostic Aids
Check for the following conditions:
?€¢
Poor connection at PCM. Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.


?€¢
Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, disconnect the PCM, turn the ignition ON and observe a voltmeter connected to the EVAP Canister Purge solenoid driver circuit at the PCM harness connector while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the EVAP Canister Purge solenoid. A change in voltage will indicate the location of the fault.


Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the Diagnostic Table.

  1. Normally, ignition feed voltage present on the output driver circuit with the PCM disconnected and the ignition turned ON.

  2. Checks for a shorted component or a short to B+ on the output driver circuit. Either condition would result in a measured current of over 1.5 amps. Also checks for a component that is going open while being operated, resulting in a measured current of 0 amps.

  3. Checks for a faulty EVAP canister purge solenoid.

  4. This vehicle is equipped with a PCM which utilizes an Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM). When the PCM is being replaced, the new PCM must be programmed. Refer to Powertrain Control Module Replacement/Programming
Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

1

Was the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic System Check performed?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check

2
  1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the PCM.
  2. Ignition ON.
  3. Using DMM (J 39200), measure voltage between the EVAP canister purge solenoid driver circuit at the PCM harness connector and ground.
Is voltage near the specified value?
B+
Go to Step 3
Go to Step 6

3
  1. DMM to 10 amp scale, install DMM to measure current between the EVAP canister purge solenoid driver circuit and ground.
  2. Monitor the current reading on the DMM for at least 2 minutes.
Does the current reading remain between the
specified values?
0.1 amp - 1.5 amps
Go to Step 11
Go to Step 4

4
  1. Disconnect the EVAP canister purge solenoid (leave the PCM disconnected).
  2. Using DMM, measure voltage between the EVAP canister purge solenoid driver circuit and ground.
Is voltage at the specified value?
0V
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 5

5

Locate and repair short to voltage in the EVAP canister purge solenoid driver circuit (refer to Engine Electrical).
Is action complete?
--
Go to Step 16
--

6

Check the ignition feed fuse for the EVAP canister purge solenoid.
Is the fuse blown?
--
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 8

7

  1. Locate and repair short to ground in ignition feed circuit for the EVAP canister purge solenoid. Refer to Fuse Block Details in Electrical Diagnosis.
  2. Replace fuse.
Is action complete?
--
Go to Step 16
--

8

  1. Disconnect the EVAP canister purge solenoid.
  2. Ignition ON, measure voltage between the ignition feed circuit for the EVAP canister purge solenoid and ground.
Is voltage near the specified value?
B+
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 13

9

  1. Check the EVAP canister purge solenoid driver circuit for an open or a short to ground.
  2. If a problem is found, repair the EVAP canister purge solenoid driver circuit.
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 10

10

  1. Check the EVAP canister purge solenoid driver circuit and the ignition feed circuit for a poor connection at the EVAP canister purge solenoid and at the PCM.
  2. If a problem is found, replace faulty terminal(s).
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 14

11

  1. Ignition OFF, reconnect the PCM and disconnect the EVAP canister purge solenoid.
  2. Ignition ON, connect a test light between the EVAP canister purge solenoid driver circuit and the ignition feed circuit at the EVAP canister purge solenoid harness connector.
  3. Using the scan tool outputs test function, cycle the EVAP canister purge solenoid ON and OFF.
Does the test light flash ON and OFF?
--
Go to Diagnostic Aids
Go to Step 12

12

  1. Check the EVAP canister purge solenoid driver circuit for a poor connection at the PCM.
  2. If a problem is found, replace faulty terminal.
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 15

13

Locate and repair open in ignition feed circuit to the EVAP canister purge solenoid. Refer to Engine Electrical.
Is action complete?
--
Go to Step 16
--

14

Replace the EVAP canister purge solenoid.
Is action complete?
--
Go to Step 16
--

15
Replace the PCM.
Important: Replacement PCM must be programmed. Refer to Powertrain Control Module Replacement/Programming .
Is action complete?
--
Go to Step 16
--

16

  1. Ignition ON, engine OFF, review and record scan tool Fail Records data.
  2. Clear DTCs.
  3. Operate vehicle within Fail Records conditions as noted.
  4. Using a scan tool, monitor SPECIFIC DTC info for DTC P1655.
Does scan tool indicate DTC P1655 failed this ignition?
--
Go to Step 2
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1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
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7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, Aaron and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched or kinked.
8. Carburetor float stuck.
9. Fuel injectors clogged.
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13. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC,or BAS).
14. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
15. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
16. Faulty CDI box if applicable.
17. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
18. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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