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Hi Josiah: According with the repair guide...4.0L Engine
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Engine from the vehicle
Engine front cover
Lock the jackshaft tensioner by installing a pin.
Jackshaft sprocket and chain assembly
Left front cassette retaining bolt
Cassette chain and tensioner assembly
Rear jackshaft plug from the engine
Right rear cassette retaining bolt and spacer
Right rear cassette chain and tensionerTiming chain (s)
There's nothing to replacing the regulator. It simply bolts to the frame. The wires from the regulator to the stator plug into the plug on the lower left front of the engine case. The larger longer wires runs back along the frame and up to the positive post of the battery.
There's a bit more to replacing the stator. To replace the stator, disconnect the battery and drain the primary case. Remove the outer primary cover. You'll have to take the engine compensator sprocket nut off and remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. To get the clutch assembly off, remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the clutch adjuster. The mainshaft nut is inside the hole in the center of the clutch assembly. The nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster and take the engine sprocket, primary chain with adjuster, and the clutch assembly off all together. The rotor is on the engine sprocket shaft. It can be difficult to get off because of the magnets inside of it. The rotor has two holes in it. I use two long bolts and put them just into the holes deep enough to hold the rotor by squeezing the ends together. Pull the rotor off. The stator is held on by four small Torx bolts and it has a wire support that is held on by two small sheet metal screws. When you install the new stator, make sure you use thread locker on the threads and torque the bolts to 40 inch pounds of torque. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch mainshaft nut (LEFT HANDED THREADS) torques to 60-80 foot pounds. You'll probably need a locking bar or some way to prevent the engine from turning while you torque the nuts.
To change the final drive belt on your Fatboy, first disconnect the battery. You have to drain the primary and remove the cover. Take the engine sprocket nut loose and remove the plate in the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. This nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Then, remove the starter jackshaft. Go the right side of the bike and remove the exhaust system so that you can remove the starter. Then take the inner primary cover off. You may have to remove the front belt drive pulley. Since you're in this far, you may as well remove the pulley if you have the proper tools and replace all the transmission seals behind it. Then, remove the rear wheel and the swingarm. Do not bend the new final drive belt into a radius any tighter than about four inches or you may damage the cords inside the belt. You will need a torque wrench that is capable of applying at least 150 foot pounds of torque to the engine sprocket nut and torqe 60-80 pounds in the LEFT HANDED DIRECTION for the clutch assembly. The front belt drive pulley torques to 150-165 foot pounds as is also LEFT HANDED THREADS and you'll need a "belt pulley locking device" to hold it while you take the large nut off and put it back on. If you plan on doing this job, I would advise the purchase of a service manual as sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words.
I assume you're talking about the front belt drive sprocket. First, disconnect the negative side of the battery. If you haven't already done so, you must drain the primary and remove the outer primary cover. Then you must take the engine compensator nut off and the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster. Remove the circlip and pull the clutch adjuster plate out of the center of the clutch. The mainshaft nut in the hole in the center of the clutch. The nut has LEFT-HANDED THREADS on it. Remove the engine compensator sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly all together. Then remove the small bolt that holds the jackshaft in and remove it and the coupling. Remove the starter. Then, take the bolts out and remove the inner primary cover. Now, you can see the front belt drive sprocket. You must take the large nut off the sprocket. It too has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. You need a special deep socket and a sprocket locking tool to get the sprocket off and retorque the nut when you put it back on. This is a major job requiring a fair amount of disassembly of the bike. If you're going to change the belt, the rear wheel and swingarm must come out as well. I would high recommend that you purchase a service manual to help with this project.
The compensator has a large nut on it and it's very tight. But, I get them off with an air impact wrench. You also have to remove the clutch assembly and primary chain. To remove the cluch assy, remove the clutch rod adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly by removing the snap ring. Inside the clutch is the mainshaft shaft nut. It has LEFT HANDED THREADS ON IT. Take it off and the remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster off and lift the front sprocket, the clutch, and the chain off all together.
The rotor should come right off but you'll have to put two bolts in the holes on the rotor and squeeze them together to get a grip on the rotor to pull it off. The magnitism force is quite strong.
When replacing the clutch and compensator, the mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds. You'll need something to lock the primary chain while you torque the nuts or the engine will turn before you get them torqued.
No they are not left hand thead,normal r/h thread. make sure chain is still on bike and front sproket and then try good rattle gun. if this does not work,put bike in gear and hold on rear brake and use long breaker bar, if still no good will need to heat front sproket nut with oxy set very carefully and rattle off with rattle gun while nut is hot