Leaking clutch cable - 2008 Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King Classic

Does the car have a cable clutch or hydraulic? If cable, there will be a rather hefty cable leading from the firewall (engine side) to the bell housing. If hydraulic, there will be a second fluid reservoir next to the brake fluid reservoir, engine compartment.
Hydraulic clutch: check for fluid level. If low, check for fluid leaks at the servo cylinder, that is the cylinder that operates the release fork on the bell housing, check for fluid leaks from the main cylinder. If it leaks, it will leak inside the car where the clutch pedal rod connects to the main cylinder. Any leaks you find on the main or servo can be repaired with a kit from your spares dealer.
If cable clutch - Check your pedal. If it is low, the cable can be adjusted to take up the slack. On older vehicles, I have found that the firewall itself sometimes corrodes if the cable is anywhere near the battery, and then adjustment does not help. The firewall has to be reinforced first.
If the clutch pedal feels good, have someone work the pedal while you have a look underneath at the release lever (or in the engine compartment if front wheel drive). See if it works well.
As a last resort, the friction plate or pressure plate could be worn, and this will mean removing the gearbox if your car is rear wheel drive. On most front wheel drive cars the clutch / pressure plate can be replaced while the gearbox is in place, a 45 minute job.

Could be a worn out clutch or a failure of hydraulic if clutch is hydraulic . Check hydraulic fluid levels if hydraulic clutch if low and leaking master cylinder for clutch needs to be checked. Check clutch cable at wirewall in engine bay if cable driven. I have seen a car that had a surclip holding the cable and if the surclip broke the clutch cable did not work as it moved as it was used.

If it is leaking at the clutch release housing which is the only place I would expect an oil leak like that to be then likely the o-ring is not sealing where the cable enters the release housing.

You need a new cable. It points downward from the primary cover which contains oil, and some of it sits in the lower part of the cable. If it is frayed, it will leak.

bad mc clutch
bad slave clutch.
can be either or both,
the hydralic clutch actuator has no adjustment other suz, older had cables, its no cable system as other states.
its auto adjusting
1: is Dot3/4 fluid leaking on either side of MC (clutch master cylinder)
2: is dot3/4 fluid leaking from the slave?
bingo fail for either leaking.
if no leaks the MC is bad, or not full of fluid.
3: does the fluid drop each weak, ( bingo for leaks)

If the oil is leaking out of the clutch cable, you must replace the clutch cable. The cable has a seal in the end of it that is supposed to keep the oil from getting into the cable. If the seal is bad, there is no way to dix it and the cable has to be replaced. If the oil is leaking where the cable goes into the transmission, there is an o-ring aound the threaded end of the cable that could be bad. It depends on whether the oil is coming out of the cable or around the cable.

Good Luck
Steve

There's nothing in a clutch cable to leak. It's simply a cable housing with a twisted cable inside of it. There is a seal to keep the transmission fluid out of the inside of the cable. But, if you're leaking trans fluid at the lower end, read on.

Now, down where the cable goes into the chrome clutch release mechanism on the right side of the bike, there is an O-ring on the cable to prevent trans oil from leaking out. Try tightening the cable right where it goes in. If this doesn't stop it, you'll have to remove the cable and replace the O-ring.

To replace the O-ring, you will have to remove the chrome clutch release mechanism. First drain the transmission oil by removing the drain plug. You'll probably have to remove at least part of the exhaust system to gain access to the release mechanism. Then remove the bolts that hold the clutch release mechanism on. Turn the release mechanism over to where you can disconnect the clutch cable for the release ramp. Turn the clutch release mechanism off of the cable. Replace the O-ring, put on a new end gasket, and reassemble in reverse order. Torque the bolts that holds the chrome clutch release mechanism on to 100 inch pounds. Refill the tranny with oil.

Good Luck,
Steve

Cable Operated Clutch:
Stretched, frayed or binding cable, broken or bent pedal bracket, or cracked firewall can be the cause. Problems with a cable mechanism will often herald internal clutch problems as well. When something happens inside the clutch that requires extra force to be exerted on the clutch pedal, things break! Cables can also wear simply from age and use.
Hydraulically Operated Clutch:
Clutch master cylinder leaking or bypassing pressure, slave cylinder leaking, clutch flex hose leaking, pedal bushings worn or missing, or a cracked firewall can reduce the system’s ability to disengage the clutch. Rule of thumb: If the clutch master cylinder is bad, replace both master and slave cylinders as a pair. This will save you future heartache.