Throttle cable very little movement in hand grip but isn't bindin
When going to open throttle, lines don't look kinked, but not opening carb more than quarter inch. Handle grip only turns about quarter inch as well. Bike has sat 5 years in garage under cover. Changed all fluids and installed new battery but when going to crank over, throttle won't open up.
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Re: Throttle cable very little movement in hand grip but...
You need to remove the carbs and they need to be cleaned, what has happened is the gas went bad and it has gummed up the throttle shaft and most likely lots of other parts in the carburators, these sound pretty bad, what needs to be done is they need to be completely disassembled and soaked in a strong solution to free and clean everything up, you are looking at about a $300-400 bill at a shop.
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Make sure cables are not pinched. If not, ensure return spring is still attached. Most-likely, though, is that the throttle grip needs to be lubed. Disassemble the handgrip, grease the handlebar under the throttle grip and the cables inside the grip area and as far into the cable as you can, and reassemble. You might also lube the carb/throttle body linkages to ensure they can operate smoothly.
If the cables are pinched and kinked, you may need to replace the kinked cable.
Hello wayne...it is probably the cable that is stuck. Try loosening the throttle cable on the handelbar adjustment. Your cable might be too tight & lubricate the cable. If that don't help, the slide in the carb is stuck open, you will need to reset it. Try moving the cable around by hand, sometimes that will free it up. If not you will have to open the carb up to get to the slide. I hope this.
First be sure the cable is seated into the top cap of the carb. Check the clip on the needle. It should be in the center groove. Check the slide to be sure the notch in the side of the slide is lined up with the pin in the inner side wall of the carb throat and that the slide moves freely when the twist grip is operated. Is the throttle cable kinked or pinched abraded or routed improperly? Is the seal on the manifold still good? Is the manifold tight to the head and carb? Please rate my answer. Thanks.
Ok, you should have two cables on your Sportster. One is the throttle cable that pulls the carb open and the other is the idle cable that acts as "safety cable" to pull the carb closed should the throttle return spring on the carb break.
To replace either or both of the cables, it will be easier to remove the fuel tank before doing so. Make sure you look at how the cable are routed from your handlebar grip to the carb. Drain the fuel and take the tank off your bike.
Now, first loosen the cable adjusters so that you have all the slack you can get in the cables. Take the two bolts out that hold the right hand switch housing halves together. Carefully lift the top half off exposing the nylon throttle sleeve. The cables are connect so that the throttle cable is to the front and the idle cable is to the rear. Work one cable at a time out of the sleeve. Be careful and do not loose the "barrel" that goes on each cable. With the cables out of the throttle sleeve, you can pull them down through the throttle housing. Then, disconnect the cables at the carb.
To reinstall the cables, do everything in reverse. Make sure you pull the throttle grip off the handlebars and apply a bit of white lithium grease to the handlebar, inside the throttle grip, and on the nylon throttle sleeve where the cables connect. Get everything assembled but just before you tighten the bolts that hold the switch housings together, slide the throttle assembly towards the center of the handlebars until it stops, then back if off about a 1/4 or 3/8 inch. Do not adjust the throttle or idle cables too tightly, you need just a bit of slack in each one or the throttle will hang. When you think you're finished, with the engine off, turn the throttle to the wide open position and release it. It should snap back to the fully closed position. If not, work with it until you get it where it does. Reinstall the fuel tank.
Caution, failure to insure proper throttle operation could cause serious injury or death. Do the job right or take it to someone that can. Your health or your life ain't worth risking for the few bucks you save.
To change the throttle cables, remove the air cleaner, filter, and backing plate to allow good access to the carburetor. Some bikes even require removing the fuel tank. Then loosen the throttle cable and idle cable adjusters and turn them to their shortest position giving you as much slack as possible.
Remove the two screws that hold the right handlebar switch housing halves together. Carefully seperate the halves and remove the cables from the throttle grip. Do not lose the cable ferrels. The cables should pull out of the bottom of the switch housing now. You may have to put some penetrating oil on the metal ends that are in the switch housing and work them around a bit. They have a little metal ring on them that expands once it's in the hole of the switch houseing. They can be very aggrevating to say the least.
With the grip ends loose, removing the carb ends is simple. Get some slack in the cable, align it with the slot in the carb and remove it. Do the same with the idle cable.
Installing the new cables are the exact reverse of removing the old ones. Remember, the idle cable is the one with the spring on the cable. If you purchased any cable other than a Harley cable, lube the cable with some "Dri-Slide". I always lube any cable (including Harley cables) that I install. Lube the inside of the throttle grip and the outside of the handlebar with white lithium grease. Lube the nylon part of the throttle grip with the same grease where the cables connect to it.
Once you get the cables on, it is very important that you get the cables adjusted correctly. Adjust the throttle cable first so that you have just a bit of slack in the cable. The throttle should open wide open and when shut, you should have a bit of slack in the cable. Then I like to adjust the idle cable tight enough so that I actually starts to compress the little spring on the cable at the carb end. Not much but just a bit of compression on the spring.
Once you're finished, make absolutely certain that your throttle control is working smoothly, freely, and will return to closed position when you let go of it. If it won't do this, it is unsafe. Work with it until you find the problem. Failure to do this job properly could cause throttle stickage and lead to serious injury or death. Make SURE you have the job done correctly before riding the bike.
The air mixture needle valve is on the Carb. Throttle screw as you call it, you might be referring to 1- throttle adjustment at the twist throttle hand grip. 2- At the top of the carb is a throttle cable adjustment 3- some times somewhere between the twist grip and the carb there is an adjustment.4- there is also a idle adjustment at the carb.
A couple of possibilities are the spark advance and the fuel line. Carburetors can do it as well as a clogged screen on the fuel pump. So can a bad coil.
Look for electrical parts under the flywheel area of the motor. When you move the throttle there should be movement of the stator to advance the spark. Check for binding wires or disconnected linkage.
See if the spark is jumping strong to the plugs for coil strength or have it tested.
Check fuel pump screen and diaphram.
Before messing with carbs-disconnect cables for throttle on boat. Work by hand directly at motor. You may have cables restricting movement.
Thats about all I can think of. Let us know of outcome.
I had same issue with my 2 year old 4cycle. Check if the carb is moving full stroke with throttle movement. I had almost no movement at carb at full throttle, found the trigger in throttle handle was cracked and bent rather than pull cable. I called mantis and they promptly sent a new handle bar ***'y with new cable, throttle ***'y Etc and that solved my problem.
BTW: If you cannot wait, I did figure out that if I pushed the carb to open with the throttle trigger fully pulled it would run at high, but when you let go.....LOL
Hi ..... The majority of throttles close with the use of a second cable and/or the return spring on the carb. Make sure you have approx' 0.2 of a movement before throttle starts to open, second cable (closing one) is 'tight', it can be adjusted at bars and carb and that the cables are correctly routed (manual will have a diagram). Try lubricating cable(s) and throttle tube on the bars. It'll be something simple .......... let us know how you get on.