The clutch cable actuates an axle with a gear at the other end. This gear bears against step gears on the thrust rod, which pushes against clutch. Make sure there is a circlip at BOTH ends of this axle. When replacing cover, ensure axle is returned fully with handlever out, and spring is in place on actuating fulcrum of the axle. Thrust rod must bear against roller bearing of the clutch pressure plate. Make sure step gears engage at first tooth when operating handlever. The above link provides an exploded view of the entire bike in appropriate sections as an aid.
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Drain the oil and Pull the clutch cover off. That rod connects to the clutch push button. sounds like it fell out.
Undo all the little clutch cover bolts. Carefully pull the cover off leaving all the clutch plates in a stack as some are different to others usually the first or last plate .Check the center of this plate as that is where the button usually is. Put it all back together and check clutch with cover off. You should see it move away as you pull the lever. Make sure you back off your clutch first.
Hope this helps cheers
Bolt the clutch cable's tensioner on your left lever mount assy.Unbolt the clutch cable's nuts at its bottom mount and pull so that you remove any **** it may has. When you bolt them back on, make sure that the clutch lever has a 2-3cm freeplay (measuring its end ball movement).If you still don't have tension, then you must take off the right hand crancase cover and check the fiction plates as well as the tension springs behind the 4 bolts which mounts the pressure plate against the clutch basket.
Replacing the clutch is fairly easy on most motorcycles. A factory repair manual is helpful and suggested, but in a nutshell, here's the proceedure.
There is a round cover on the right side of the engine, this is the clutch cover. After draining the oil, remove the cover and this will expose the clutch pressure plate that will be retained with a number of washered bolts and springs. Remove the pressure plate, and the clutch plates can be removed. There will be alternating friction and steel plates-remove them all and keep them in a stack in the order they were removed. Soak the new friction plates in oil before installation. Install the new plates starting and ending with friction, alternating a steel plate in between.Be aware that some motorcycles have a different first and last friction plate, your parts dealer should know that when you buy the parts.
After it's stacked reinstall pressure plate with new springs, bottom out the washered bolts and no additional torque is required. Reinstall cover with new gasket, fill with oil and adjust clutch lever so it has enough slack to slide a quarter in between the lever and perch. Good luck!
your clutch is simply a stack of friction disks and metal plates. The friction disks are splined into the outer hub ring and alternate, one friction disk / one plate / one friction disk / one plate etc. It's very simple to free this up if it's locked up. remove clutch cover. If you are unsure which is your clutch cover, follow the clutch lever cable to the actuator arm. remove the cable from arm and all bolts holding the cover. as you pull out the cover, you will see the arm rotate that's because it's geared into an arm that is connected to the front plate of the clutch basket assembly. You'll see it as soon as you pull it off. now you'll be looking at a round plate with 6 bolts with springs underneath. when you arent pulling the lever, these springs are extended and push the friction disks and metal plates together, thereby locking the inner hub to the outer hub. The inner hub is connected to the crank, and the outer hub is connected to the transmission input gear. So, if pressed together by the springs, your engine running causes your bike to move. Pulling the clutch lever in pulls the spring tension off the plates and allows them to separate. This allows your engine to be disconnected from the transmission. If your plates are locked together you will remove them one by one if you can and lubricate between each plate and disk and reinstalling. Pay close attention to how it came apart. Reinstall bolts and springs reinstall cover, aligning the lever gear teeth with the front of the clutches teeth correctly. put it all together and see if you are okay now.
The clutch lever should have some tension, so could be a problem with the hydraulic actuator stuck, or a failure of the clutch. try bleeding the clutch, or pull the clutch cover off and see if the pressure plate moves
I think you mean that the clutch has a broken cable and it is constantly engaged. The clutch dis-engages from the gear box when the clutch lever is pulled in. The push lever axle (I think this is what you are calling the main shaft) sits in a hole on the side cover. The gear on the axle engages the push rod and the push rod separates the clutch plates by pushing on the pressure plate to dis -engage the transmission. If the axle shaft is loose, check the lock bolt. Also check the cover plate. Is the casing cracked or broken at the mounting point?
If you are calling the push rod "the main shaft", then some movement is normal when the clutch is engaged as would happen with a broken cable. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.
Install transmission to flywheel housing.
Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
Install starter motor.
Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable
ok, three different possibilities here. first, you replaced your broken lever with a lever that has the hole for the cable end a little closer to the perch, and you dont have enough range of adjustment to tighten up the cable. this is probably the least likely scenario, since you need a very signifigant change in the lever or perch assembly to throw your adjustment off that far. second, your cable may have frayed or just broke. follow the clutch cable all the way to the engine, and keep an eye on the arm that it attatches to. it should move when you pull the lever. if theres no movement, then your cables broken or frayed. if you can see that the cable is pulling on that arm, then your problem may be internal. also less likely though. but as a last resort, if you have the mechanical knowledge, then check behind the pressure plate for anything that may have broken in the assembly that pushes the pressure plate outwards. IM not too familiar with the kawasaki's design, but there may also be an adjustment screw and locknut right in the center of the pressure plate. tightening up just a little usually solves this isssue.
You are saying that with the clutch lever pulled in the bike still wants to go forward. Generally that is caused by dirty, gritty oil in the gearbox. Go ahead and change the oil. 10w40 motor oil is what you want. I think that will fix the problem assuming the clutch plates were installed properly. The first plate installed and the last plate installed should be a fiber friction plate, 8 plates total. A metal pressure plate goes between each fiber plate, 7 plates total.
Be sure the lever assembly arm is installed so that it gets full movement of the clutch cable. If the full range of movement is not present then full disengagement of the clutch is not going to happen.
cape cod bob did you a good service in the manual referral. Be sure to say thanks.
It seems you may have refitted it incorrectly the system,especially the springs !, the round ones or the center inside clutch lifter pin which whn operated does not push to lift the pressure ring.
I am not tht experinced withthe duccati but i guess the clutch systems works on the same principles.