I have no problem with the front forks when i'm driving and cornering and such it's when i come to a stop the i think the front of the bike seems to dip down much more than it should,and i dont hammer the brake either i was just wondering is this a common problem with a cbr 250rr mc 22 or do i need to do an overhaul on the forks.
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Re: soft front suspension on a cbr 250rr mc22
Probably should have the fork fluid changed and install a new set of springs this should do it..and if you are going to put air into the shocks through the air fittings, be very careful if using a gas station hose, it'll blow your seals out.. it has to be just a real quick squirt of air, then take a tire gauge and measure, should be between 3-6psi..most racers though don't put any air in at all, but this is just personnel preference. they put in stiffer springs! this keeps the racer from bottoming out the forks in a tight turn which causes the bike to try and stand back up! Physics! Can you rate this Thanks. I haven't got a rating in awhile and i've posted quite a bit..we a fix ya just love to hear positive feedback!
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I'm sorry but I don't have the specs on the quantity and type of fork oil for your year and model bike. I work on the older bikes that the dealers will no longer service. But, I can describe the difference between the "wet" and "dry" conditions of the fork assembly. If you take the front forks apart, clean them out, and put them back together with no oil in them, they are considered "dry". For a simple drain and refill type oil change on them where you don't get all the oil out of them, they are considered "wet". I hope this helps, You can call you local dealer's service department and they should tell you the quantity and viscosity of the oil that goes in the front forks on your machine. They'll tell you something like 6 ounces of "Type E" oil, for example. Harley-Davidson uses these types of specs to describe their oils. If you go to a website for fork oil, like PJ1, they may give a cross reference or equivalency chart for converting H-D "Type E" to their oil. I think that would be their 30 weight oil. If the front end seems too "stiff" with 30 weight, you can drop down to 20 weight. I think Honda makes a 25 weight but not sure. Your Harley won't mind the Honda oil. BG.
If all you want to do it replace your fork seals, if you can find a way to jack the bike high enough, you don't have the fork tubes our ot the triple trees. Work with on fork tube at a time. Raise the bike up off the ground and take the front wheel and fender off. Brake caliper off it's tube. Now raise the bike up to where you've got about a foot of clearance below the lowest point of the slider. Look underneath the slider where the axle goes through and you'll see an 8mm bolt. Take this bolt out and your lower slider will come off. The fork oil will start to drain as soon as you take the bolt loose as well. Leave a pan under the upper fork while you work on the lower to catch the dripping oil. Replace the fork seal and reassemble that tube. Then, do the next one. Now, refill the tube with the correct amount of the correct oil from the top by removing the top cap nut. Pour in the correct amount of oil for a "wet" refill. The thicker the viscosity of the oil, the firmer the front fork action. I think they came with H-D type E which seems to be a bit softer action than 30 weight fork oil. Make sure you use fork oil. Regular engine oil or transmission oil should not be used and it will foam if you're riding down a rough road and your forks will collapse and not work until the oil settles again. Not a pleasant feeling. It's really doubtful if you'll get anywhere that is that rough with your Harley.
One thing you could try is a "fork brace" or what some people call a "tweek bar" that ties the two sliders together. This reduces the amount of flex in the front forks. We used to run them on our dirt bikes years ago. They do help stabilize the front end.
Also drop your front tire pressure to 30 psi and look for any unusual wear patterns on you tires such as cupping. Take the wheel off and have it spin balanced as well. You can also change the fork oil in your forks. I run PJ1 30 weight in my Wide Glide. It's a bit on the stiff side but it sure helped the handling as the bike no longer bounces and dives in the turns. I also got away from the Dunlop tires. I now run Metezler 880's and they seem to handle the turns better but I think the Dunlops had better braking characteristics.
Check the following:
Steering head bearings for play and looseness
Front and rear tire pressures
Front and rear wheel bearings for wear
Rear fork bearings
Also check over tires for irregular wear patterns that might be contributing to the loose feeling.
Try checking the folk pinch bolts on the top and bottom yokes, it would appear that your bike is oversteering ie the forks are twisting causing this making the bike unstable especially whilst cornering. Tightening the bolts to the correct torque should cure this.
Jack up the front end until the wheel is off the ground, then slowly rotate the bars from one stop to the other. If you hear noises or it feels rough, take the forks and wheel off, disassemble the fork head and inspect the upper and lower bearings and races for damaged surfaces. Clean and repack bearings with fresh grease. Reassemble the fork head and adjust the bearings to just remove slop. Recheck the rotation. When putting the forks and wheel back, check the shock action of each fork individually. If the machine has a lot of miles, drain the fork oil and recharge. Make sure that the axle is clamped tight as well as the fork head clamp and top bolts. Has the bike ever been hit hard in the front? If yes, it could have changed the fork angle making it unstable.
sounds like the box may have been squashed. send it back to where you got it from or its not that hard to spread the forks apart by pulling them. used to do this all the time when servicing mountain style bikes that have been thrashed by customers :)
i think the speedo drive has a little molded ridge on it which should slide into a slot on the fork leg, thus stopping the drive from spinning round the spindle. drop the front spindle out and align the drive correctly and then slide back the spindle and bolt it all up and you should be all good to go.