Question about 2005 Victory Kingpin

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Forkseal is leaking.i got the inner seal and the outer seal on line is that all the parts thats needed? i was told i will need some special tools that could be fabricated with a lenth of pvc and another with allthread and 2 nuts no details was included about lenth or size.

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Do you know what you are doing? Those parts are correct requirements .You need to take the forks off the bike first then undo thee mpty old fork oil, release first upper "C" ring locknut and be careful when removing the "c" locknut not to let the compressed spring out too fast as it will sprung forcefully. Anyway the pipe should be able to slide tight over the stachion to remove outer seal and length is about 1.5m. If you never done it before, get an experienced friend to help guide you as this is quite a tricky operation though feasible to be done. Good enough advise?

Posted on May 04, 2010

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Model #AWM392W when water is filling tub, water is coming out from around the bottom


the outer tub seal is bad,you need to remove the inner tub then outer tub to replace this seal

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Do i need any special tools to change hub bearing on a 95 honda passport


No special tools needed, this Honda has the old type inner and outer wheel bearing's, remove cotter pin, spindle nut slide rotor out, remove wheel bearing, repack new bearing with grease and don't forget to replace grease seal's, install new part's adjust spindle nut and install cotter pin.Good luck,hope this was very helpful.

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I have changed the forkseal on my zxr750 j model 3 times and it is still leaking.I am thinking I will need new forks but am having trouble finding them. Can I use zxr750 l model forks on my j model bike?


Hello first things first are your fork tubes inner scratched or dented?
If not take it to a motorcycle mechanic and have them inspected let the mechanic install a new set if finds there are no damage to the inner fork tubes or dee scratches to the outer fork tubes inner sealing area some times people use a screw driver to pry out the old seal and do not pay attention that they gouged a grove on the inner part sealing area.

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Maytag Dependable LAT8824AAE. Main tub seal leaks


The part number for the mounting stem and seal kit is 6-2095720 it cost about 85 bucks retail. You will also need to buy a special maytag spanner wrench to remove the inner tub. Its NOT an easy job the inner and outer tubs and hoses all need to be removed. The seal kit comes with no instructions. If you had a service company do the job it would be probably around 250 maybe more. We charge 104.95 labor for the job. Good luck _MJ_

Mar 04, 2010 | Maytag Washing Machines

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How do we remove the tub seal assembly on a mat12cs commercial Maytag?


This is a not a job for the back yard mechanic. There are many things that need to be done carefully. There are 3 letters missing from your model number also... However the procedure is pretty much the same for all models.

NOTE you will need a special tool to remove the stem seal. Unless you have the special tool in hand don't even bother starting the job. Tell any appliance part center you need the tool for removing an Old style Maytag tub nut and stem seal.

1. Remove the front panel
2. Remove the cabinet top / lid by removing the 2 screws in the top front corner of the cabinet. and rotate the top up 90 deg. Be careful of the lid that will swing freely.
3. Disconnect the pump inlet hose from the bottom of the tub.
4. Disconnect the water injector hose from the tub cover.
5. Remove the tub cover
6. Locate the only hex head screw in the side of the agitator and remove it.
7. Lift out the agitator
8. Using the special tool you should have in hand by now.... Remove the wash tub nut and stainless steel washer under the tub nut.
9. NOTE the distance of the inner tub from the outer tub and then lift out the wash tub
10. Next is the stem seal. You first have to remove the allen head lock screw in one of the 4 faces of the tub nut. Then again using that same special tool remove the upper part of stem seal. Be careful when lifting it as you can actually damage the grease seal in the very top of the tub seal upper portion. Once the metal upper part of the tub stem seal assy is removed... there another NOTE of caution...
11. The actual tub seal has a carbon face on the top of it and if you crack the carbon seal it your machine will leak all of the time there is water in the unit.
grab the tub seal as the very base of the seal and gently rotate and lift it off the inner tub sealing surface.
12. Install the new stem seal.... by again gripping it on the bottom only and gently rotate and push it down into place until it seats level.

Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly but make sure you INSTALL the allen lock screw into the stem seal nut face. If you don't the stem seal will come loose and your unit will leak again. Final note is during re-assembly make sure the wash tub is centered.... rotate the tub once you tighten the tub nut and make sure it is not to elliptical if you don't get it right... the machine will gyrate with use in the spin cycle.

Jan 14, 2010 | Maytag MAT12CS Top Load Washer

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How do I install driver side inner tie rod on my 1997 chevy cavalier?No room to work. Do I need to remove whole rack and pinion assembly?


you don't need to remove the whole rack but do need a special tool called inner tie rod tool. can be bought or borrowed form most auto parts stores. first remove wheel. next loosen the jam nut on inner tie rod at the end of outer tie rod. remove cotter pin and nut on outer. use seperator or pickle fork to seperate outer from knuckle. then remove the clamps on boot and remove. then take tie rod tool and find the right size end and turn with 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar. it will turn hard at first cause of it being staked on to the threads. when it is off install new part with loc-tite on threads and tighten. when tight crimp inner flanges with either plier or hammer and punch to the rack. install in reverse order. remember to measure distance from clamp on outer side of boot to jam nut so you can get the alignment close until you get to shop for alignment.

May 05, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

My transmission is leaking..plz help!


If it isn't leaking from the Input seal, (The seal where the torque converter shaft goes into), then I suggest it's leaking from the Front Pump seal. Torque converter removed, look at the large round object, that has bolts going around it, and a shaft coming out the middle. The Input seal is in the middle. The large round object is the Front Pump. There is a large rubber O-ring that goes around the Front Pump. This O-ring can deteriorate, and leak. It can also blow out partially, due to inner damage of a spring clutch.

One thing I would like to advise you on. The Inner seal installation.

You should use the proper tool to remove it. You should use a seal puller. Also, when using a seal puller, the seal puller head can dig into the Front Pump cast iron case.
This can create a gouge, in the recess where the outside of the seal sits. This will create an area to leak.
Use caution when removing an Inner seal, and only have the seal puller head just far enough in, that it catches about half, of the inner seal -> metal outer ring. Past the rubber part of the seal, past the spring, and onto the metal outer ring of the seal itself. But, not far enough that the seal puller head will touch the Front Pump case recess.

If you did gouge the recess of the Front Pump case, clean the area with a clean shop rag. Use a half round file, and carefully remove the burr that the gouge creates. When a gouge is created, it upsets the metal. The gouge makes a 'valley', and a burr is created on the top edges of this 'valley'. That burr needs to be filed down to the rounded recess surface. Follow up with sandpaper. Wipe it out with a clean shop rag. Wrap a clean shop rag around the shaft, so that no metal fillings can get inside the Front Pump, and blow that recess out with air. Wipe the recess area again, with a clean shop rag.

To install an Inner seal, lightly coat the outside metal ring of the seal, with silicone. I use high temp Red. Failure to do this may cause a leak. Do this if you have a gouge or not. If you have a gouge, put a little extra silicone in that gouge, and fill it up. Don't use too much, but make sure the gouge is filled.

Either use a seal installation tool, or fabricate one out of Schedule 80 pipe, and have one end milled flat, and the corners rounded a little. The pipe must be large enough to fit against the flat outer lip of the seal.
Put the seal in place. Push on it, try to keep it flat and even. Put the seal installation tool on the seal. Tap on one side of the installation tool, then tap on the other, until you get a good start. Good start being the seal starts to go in, and is even all the way around. Then take you hammer, and tap around the outside edge of the installation tool. Go around and around. Watch how the seal is going in. If it starts to tilt off to one side, stop. Remove the seal. Start over. It must go in even all the way around, as it's being installed.

Failure to keep it even as it's installed, will twist the seal, and the seal's spring will pop out. Now you have a twisted seal, and no spring. The seal is junk!

BE SURE, to apply a thin light coat of transmission fluid, to the inner part of the seal. The area where the torque converter shaft will spin in. FAILURE to do this, might cause the torque converter shaft to twist, the inner rubber part of the seal, and twist the seal in half. The seal is then junk!

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1 Answer

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You will probably need the workshop manual. Im not too sure but you may need a special tool to remove the stanchion from the lower fork leg. Im doing VFR forks at the moment and was able to use a combination of hex spark plug spanner and sockets to insert into the leg to hold the inner slider and open the nut at the bottom of the leg. Once it was out you just need to give it a few tugs to separate the two tubes and remove the seal.
Here is your manual i think. Good luck.
Rate if I've helped you.
http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?fileid=089097109097104097095088074054048048083040057050045057057041095088074054048048078040057053045057057041095083101114118105099101095082101112097105114095077097110117097108046112100102

Apr 03, 2009 | 1991 Yamaha XJ 600

1 Answer

Leaking front door rubber seal


this might be a job you might want a appliance tech to do this repair depending if its the inner or outside part of the seal thats loose. if its the outer ,press seal around front panel opening and strech outer spring to retain outer seal to outer panel

Dec 13, 2008 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

1 Answer

GE Front Loader rubber boot completely out of shape


You can replace the rubber door seal yourself if you are logically minded and are handy with tools. Isolate the washer from the mains supply. Remove the top fixing screws at the back of the washer. Slide the top of the washer to the rear of the washer and remove. Now you will be able to see the outer drum and the securing band to the drum. This needs loosening and moving clear of the outer drum so you can disconnect the seal from the drum. When you open the door, you will find see that the door seal connects to the washer outer body. You should see a holding catch probably made of plastic. This has to be removed and take care not to break anything. When re fitting the seal,you will find on the front inner edge a small hole, this must be in the 6 o'clock position. Working from the door access, feed the new seal on the outer drum and secure it with the retaining band that you removed earlier, at this stage do not fully tighten as you may need to readjust the seal later on. Now working at the door, feed on the door seal and position the small hole at 6 o'clock. If you find that the seal is twisting, then you will have to readjust the the seal on the inner outer drum. When everything is lined up, tighten the inner securing band then the outer retaining band by the door. Recheck that the small hole on the door inner lip is at 6 o'clock and both the door an outer drum securing bands are tight. This done, check for leaks by part filling the washer and then putting the washer on an emptying cycle. If all is well, then isolate the power to the washer and refit the the top of the washer and secure with the screws you removed earlier. On no account put your hands or tools inside the washer when it is on and connected to the power supply.

I have not yet replaced a door seal on your model of washer, but I have done quite a few and the process is the same. I hope you can follow these instructions and if you come across a snag, think about it and i am sure you will find the solution. You can always get to me at FixYa.

Oct 27, 2008 | GE Energy Star WCVH6260F Front Load Washer

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