Question about 2001 Suzuki GSX-R 1000

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I assembled a new battery and according to the instructions my next step is to attach the rubber caps to seal off the acid and mixed components. The problem is that I can still hear the acid and components sizzling. Should I wait for that to stop or am I good to go?

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Hello, I would always wait a little while because the Acid will be asorbed into the Battery and that will Lower the Level in the Battery. I never put Acid into a New Battery and then put it into the bike right away!!! I fill the Battery to the Level on the Outside of the Battery Never "Over Filling or Under Filling" Under Fillling allows the Lead Plates on the Top Inside of the Battery to be Exposed and that Ruins the Battery and Over Filling does Two things, 1. You have too much Acid in the Battery so it is going to Leak out of the Over Flow Tube (and that can get messy) 2. I have found that Over Filled Batterys with "NOT" hold a Full Charge! Sometimes I have had Customers Come in my shop and tell me they have a New Battery and it won't hold a Charge and when I see that it is Over Filled, I remove some of the Acid and put it on a "Trickle Charger" and then it Holds a "Full Charge"!!! I also Always put a New Battery on a 1-2 Amp "Trickle Charger to make sure that it is "FULLY" Charged before putting it in the bike! I have Noticed over the Years that when a New Battery is installed NOT FULLY Charged from the Begining that it will NOT have a Long Life!!! To Sum Everything Up: Your Best Advice is to Fill the Battery and let it sit maybe 15-20 min. then recheck it and bring the level up to the top line, then put it on a "Trickle Charger" and then when it is Fully Charged (The only Proper way to know is with a Battery Load Tester) then top it off again. Make sure that you remove the "Plug" that sometimes comes on the battery overflow and put on the overflow hose before you charge the Battery. Battery Maintenance is How Some Batterys will last 3-5 years and others only 1-2 years!!! Thanks Azharleybob

Posted on May 01, 2010

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 1,508 Answers

It will bubble for a while , make sure the vent its clear and the vent overflow tube connected.
It sometimes helps to give them a bit of a charge, but if your bike starts and you go for a ride it should charge up

Posted on May 01, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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HOW TO REMOVE THE GLUE OF THE UPPER CAP COVBEWR OF eXIDE SAFE POWER SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERY 12VOLT 14.4/ WITH OUT RISK


don't remove the cover or open the battery
it is full of acid and is not to be messed with
you cannot fix any part of the battery so just replace it
remove the wire terminals from the battery and replace it with a new battery

Jul 13, 2016 | Exide Computers & Internet

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E04 Error on Bosch Front Load Washer- WFMC3200UC/01- How to clean and/or change...


I kept getting an E04 error code on my Bosch washer. This means that I have a drain or pump problem. First, I need to trouble shoot before deciding to buy a new pump or to call a repair man.
1. UNPLUG THE MACHINE!
2. Make sure the machine is unplugged.
3. There is a access door on the bottom right side of the machine. It looks like a circle. Turn the circle and remove. Get Towels! If there is water in there, it will be coming out onto your floor.
4. Open the cap. It looks and works like a gas cap on a car.
5. Clean any debris that you find there. Then replace cap.
6. Reach up and squeeze the hose leading from the tub to the pump. There is a little ball inside that hose which is a safety device to keep debris from entering the pump. If that ball moves freely (not necessarily easily, but freely), there is probably no debris to clean out. But, you can always check by removing the hose clamp and looking (not easy at this point).
7. If you found debris in either place, once cleared, you should be fine. The smallest item can cause this error (a hair pin, wet receipt, hair ball, etc...).
8. Replace the access door on front right.
9. Plug in machine and try another load. If you continue to get E04 code, then your pump is probably bad.

CHECKING THE PUMP
1. UNPLUG THE MACHINE!
2. Make sure the machine is unplugged.
3. Remove the access door on the bottom right side of the machine again.
4. Open the cap again.
5. Put your finger in the pump motor and try to spin it. It should move, but not easily. If it moves easy, your pump is probably bad.
6. You can order a new pump motor or the whole pump assembly. The new pump assembly comes with a hose to drain your pump. The original part does not have this feature. No worries, changing the pump is easy and fairly inexpensive ($80-100)

CHANGING THE PUMP
1. UNPLUG THE MACHINE!

2. Make sure the machine is unplugged.
3. You will need to remove the front panel of the machine for the easiest access.
4. Prop the machine front up. There is a metal plate that is attached to the bottom of the machine by 2 screws. Remove both screws. Lower machine back to floor.
5. Remove the door. IT'S EASY. Open door. Remove 4 hinge screws from the door (not from the frame). Be prepared to catch the door once the screws are removed.
6. Remove the front of the rubber door gasket. There is a thin round shaped wire that sits in the groove of the rubber gasket. There is a spring on the bottom of the wire, making it expandable. Gently pull the wire from the groove and set aside.
7. Remove the rubber seal from the front panel (frame of the hole) by unclipping the rubber from plastic notches around the perimeter of the hole. DO NOT Remove the rubber seal from the inside of the machine. Leave it attached.
8. Take the control panel off of the top of the machine. There are 4 screws (2 on each side). Remove the screws, gently pull out and up. No need to unplug the electrical panel. Place the panel on top of the machine.
9. There are 2 screws holding the front panel on. Remove both screws. (1 on each side, on top)
10. There are plastic clips on the inside of the panel. These work similarly to a bedrail attached to a headboard. Gently lift the entire front panel, unlatching it from the clips, then pull forward.
11. Get Towels! If there is water in there, it will be coming out onto your floor.
12. There will be 3 hoses on the pump assembly. Remove the hose clamps.
13. Reach back and unplug the pump. (Squeeze the plug at the pump motor and pull).
14. There are little rubber feet which attach the pump assembly to the bottom of the washer. Push the entire assembly back and lift up. (similar to the bedrail/headboard scenario mentioned above)

INSTALL NEW PUMP
1. Reverse the above instructions.
2. Put rubber feet in bottom and pull forward.
3. Plug in pump.
4. Attach hoses.
5. Put front panel back on and pull down to snap into clips. Put screws in.
6. Put rubber gasket back on. Put gasket on notches. Put wire ring into groove.
7. Put the control panel back on. 4 screws.
8. Prop front of machine up. Reattach bottom to plate using the 2 screws.
9. Replace door, using 4 screws. This will take 2 pairs of hands.
10. Plug the machine in and try it out.
That is all. I am not a professional. I am single mom who has to do stuff like this on my own. Since the pump did not come with instructions and Bosch refuses to tell a person how to take the washing machine apart, I tired to find instructions online, but was unsuccessful. That is why I decided to share. I wrote these instructions from memory. Hopefully, I did not miss any steps. But it really is easy. I was unable to attach pictures, so I hope my descriptions were clear enough.

on Feb 03, 2014 | Bosch Washing Machines

3 Answers

If I have lost acid from my battery should I have it replaced


If it was lost by evaporation it was just water that left, so add distilled water only. If it was lost by spillage then add a mix of 37-38% sulphuric acid with distilled water, to the correct level indicator.

You can get this mix from an autoparts store like Autozone. It can't be sent by post. If you make the mix yourself, then only ever add acid to water a bit at a time, NEVER add water to acid, it will spit. Wear good eye protection and rubber gloves as well.

Aug 21, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2000 t&c,battery light on.new battery.alt.tests good.got it back on the road.hit a bump and battery light came on.how can I find this short.on day it's perfect next thing,battery light is back on.


I suspect that the issue is a result of poor connections at the battery posts. Remove and clean the connections at both the battery + and - posts *AND* the + and - cable clamps / bolts with a small wire brush or a battery post cleaner. Next, mix a small amount of baking soda (1 or 2 tablespoons and 12 oz of water or so) and pour slowly over the top of the battery - do NOT allow it to enter the battery via caps or vents in the caps! Foaming is a sign of battery acid that has leaked on the battery and steals power for the battery much the way leaving a dome light on 24 hrs a day does. Rinse with water or garden hose thoroughly. After cleaning, apply an oxide inhibitor on posts and cable clamps (available at most auto-parts stores) or mix up vasaline & baking soda as shown in the video. Check that the fan belt that turns the alternator (yours may be a serpentine type - one belt for everything) is tight - not loose or otherwise slipping. Have it professionally checked / replaced if unsure.

Apr 10, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

HOW DO I INSTALL A SEAL KIT


A metal ball controls the temperature and flow of water from the spout in the vast majority of Delta single-lever faucets. That ball rests on three rubber seals, each seal suspending the ball with a single spring. Over time, wear on the seals, the springs and even the ball itself typically results in leaks. Thankfully, repairing the faucet is relatively simple, and Delta even makes repair kits with the replacement parts needed for each model.


Turn off the valve that controls the main water supply. The valve is located next to the water meter, inside or outside the house, and must be twisted in a clockwise direction.

Remove the plastic cap from the center of the faucet's handle by prying the cap free with the blade of a dull knife or a flat-head screwdriver, then remove the screw in the center of the faucet handle with a Phillips-head screwdriver. Pull the handle off the faucet assembly to remove it

  • Remove the single bonnet nut that surrounds the faucet valve with an adjustable wrench. Grip the bonnet nut at the base, which is ribbed to give the wrench a surface to grasp, and turn in a counterclockwise direction to remove it.

  • Remove the circular, white plastic cam that surrounds the top of the faucet, pulling it off and revealing a rubber seal, which you also remove. Next, pull the metal ball out of the faucet assembly and pry out the ball's supporting rubber seals and their springs with a screwdriver (the springs slide onto the bottom of each seal, so they will come out along with the seals).

  • Slide one replacement spring onto each of the three replacement seals that come with the Delta repair kit for your faucet model, then insert each seal into the assembly. Insert the replacement ball from the repair kit, then cap it by putting the replacement rubber seal over the ball, followed by the plastic cam

  • Place the bonnet nut over the faucet valve, then tighten the nut with an adjustable wrench. Position the handle onto the end of the faucet, then insert a screw into the center of the handle, tighten it with a Phillips-head screwdriver and, finally, press the decorative plastic cap over the screw.

  • Turn on the valve that controls the main water supply by twisting the valve in a counterclockwise direction to complete the repair

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    REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Fuel pump unit 8470h037.gif
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Relieve fuel system pressure.
    3. Remove fuel filler cap to release fuel tank vapors. Leave cap off until repairs are completed. Gasoline fuel vapors are extremely flammable. Ensure that fuel is stored in a container that can be properly sealed. Never store fuel in an open container. Store container in a safe place away from heat.
    4. Remove fuel tank by performing the following:
      1. Step 1: Drain fuel from the tank into an approved container for storage.
      2. Step 2: Raise and safely support the vehicle.
      3. Step 3: Remove rear stabilizer bar at links, pivot bar downward.
      4. Step 4: Remove hoses and pipes from tank unit.
      5. Step 5: Remove hoses at tank from filler and vent pipe.
      6. Step 6: Disconnect tank unit harness from rear body harness.
      7. Step 7: Support fuel tank and disconnect 2 fuel tank retaining straps.
      8. Step 8: Remove tank from vehicle.
    5. Remove sending unit, gasket and pump assembly by turning cam lock ring counterclockwise. Lift assembly from fuel tank and remove fuel pump from fuel tank sending unit.
    6. Pull fuel pump up into attaching hose while pulling outward away from bottom support. Take care to prevent damage to rubber insulator and strainer during removal. After pump assembly is clear of bottom support, pull pump assembly out of rubber connector for removal. To install:
    7. Push fuel pump assembly into attaching hose.
    8. Install fuel tank sending unit and pump assembly into tank assembly. Use new O-ring seal during reassembly.
    9. Install cam lock over assembly and lock by turning clockwise.
    10. Support tank and position in vehicle. Install tank straps and secure with retaining bolts. Tighten to 25 ft. lbs. (33 Nm).
    11. Connect tank unit harness to body harness.
    12. Connect hoses to filler and vent pipes. Tighten clamps.
    13. Connect hoses and pipes to tank unit.
    14. Connect rear stabilizer bar to links. Tighten bolts to 42 ft. lbs. (58 Nm).
    15. Lower vehicle.
    16. Refill tank and install filler cap.
    17. Connect negative battery cable.
    18. Start engine and check for leaks.

    Dec 24, 2010 | 1992 Oldsmobile Toronado

    2 Answers

    My Vector model #VEC117FS has a battery that is dead and will not recharge. The replacement battery is VEC 191 according to the owner's manual. Where can I buy this battery or is it best to just buy a new...


    There are many companies on the Internet that offer Sealed Lead Acid Batteries, which may be less expensive than replacing the light. I would suggest identifying the particular battery your light has and then check what's available on the Internet to make a decision on whether it is cheaper to replace the battery or the light.

    http://www.batterywholesale.com/battery-store/SLA-batteries
    http://www.batterymart.com/c-sealed-lead-acid-batteries.html
    http://www.atbatt.com/sealed-lead-acid-batteries.asp
    http://www.zbattery.com/Batteries/Sealed-Lead-Acid
    http://www.planetbattery.com/product.asp?id=10

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    Can I access the fuelpump through the trunk on a 94 concours c4.6


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    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Relieve fuel system pressure.
    3. Remove fuel filler cap to release fuel tank vapors. Leave cap off until repairs are completed. Gasoline fuel vapors are extremely flammable. Ensure that fuel is stored in a container that can be properly sealed. Never store fuel in an open container. Store container in a safe place away from heat.
    4. Remove fuel tank by performing the following:
      1. Step 1: Drain fuel from the tank into an approved container for storage.
      2. Step 2: Raise and safely support the vehicle.
      3. Step 3: Remove rear stabilizer bar at links, pivot bar downward.
      4. Step 4: Remove hoses and pipes from tank unit.
      5. Step 5: Remove hoses at tank from filler and vent pipe.
      6. Step 6: Disconnect tank unit harness from rear body harness.
      7. Step 7: Support fuel tank and disconnect 2 fuel tank retaining straps.
      8. Step 8: Remove tank from vehicle.
    5. Remove sending unit, gasket and pump assembly by turning cam lock ring counterclockwise. Lift assembly from fuel tank and remove fuel pump from fuel tank sending unit.
    6. Pull fuel pump up into attaching hose while pulling outward away from bottom support. Take care to prevent damage to rubber insulator and strainer during removal. After pump assembly is clear of bottom support, pull pump assembly out of rubber connector for removal. To install:
    7. Push fuel pump assembly into attaching hose.
    8. Install fuel tank sending unit and pump assembly into tank assembly. Use new O-ring seal during reassembly.
    9. Install cam lock over assembly and lock by turning clockwise.
    10. Support tank and position in vehicle. Install tank straps and secure with retaining bolts. Tighten to 25 ft. lbs. (33 Nm).
    11. Connect tank unit harness to body harness.
    12. Connect hoses to filler and vent pipes. Tighten clamps.
    13. Connect hoses and pipes to tank unit.
    14. Connect rear stabilizer bar to links. Tighten bolts to 42 ft. lbs. (58 Nm).
    15. Lower vehicle.
    16. Refill tank and install filler cap.
    17. Connect negative battery cable.
    18. Start engine and check for leaks.
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    Aug 26, 2010 | Cadillac Escalade ESV Cars & Trucks

    2 Answers

    I need the assembly instructions for a Four Seasons Gas Grill


    I purchased this grill and assembled it yesterday. I noted the area that is providing confusion as it is wrong. Please follow the following instructions. It is quite simple when you have a background in electrical and electronics engineering. These directions should translate my knowledge into step by step instructions for all.

    1. Attach the two thinner wires with two terminals on each wire, from the front of the grill head to the larger (Input or Control) terminals on the igniter assembly. These two wires are from the push to turn micro switches on each of the burner control knobs on the grill head. Attach the two smaller terminals on these thinner wires to the micro switch on the side burner control connected as part of the regulator and hose assembly.

    2. Attach the three thicker wires from the front of the grill head to three of the six smaller (output) terminals on the igniter assembly. These wires go to the igniters themselves.

    3. Connect the two thicker wires from the rear of the grill head to two of the six output terminals on the igniter assembly. The small wire is for the igniter on the bottom infrared burner and the larger, thermally insulated wire, connects to the igniter on the rear infrared burner.

    4. Connect the lead from the side burner to the remaining small output terminal on the igniter assembly.

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    7. Insert the battery into the igniter assembly by removing the batter cap and inserting the AA size battery with the positive (pointed) end out. Replace the battery cap.

    8. Test the igniter assembly prior to installing the gas tank and installing the “Flame Tamers” and grates by pushing in on each burner control knob in turn. Listen for a popping sound and look for sparks at each burner.

    I hope this helps.

    Ed Roberts
    President
    E. F. Roberts & Associates
    www.efrobertsassoc.com

    Mar 19, 2009 | Grilling

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