Question about 2008 kawasaki Z750

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Mechanical noise and vibrations

Hi,
I have Kawasaki Z750 2008. Now you can hear mechanical (metal) noise and feel vibrations at low speeds (especially at 30-40 km/h at 2nd gear). When I press clutch levar all the problem are gone. What is it?

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Different speed at the same RPM in 6 gear

There are a couple of possible solutions here: The first is that your clutch may be slipping when the engine gets warm. The second is that either the speedometer may be reading a lower speed once warm or the tachometer may be reading a higher RPM once warm.

IF the clutch is working properly and not slipping the speed of the rear wheel will always remain constant to the speed if the engine - the gear ratios will not change. If the clutch begins to slip it is possible for the engine to rev higher while the rear wheel speed remains the same. Your engine RPM and speed should always be "lock step" with one another when in any gear. To check if the clutch is slipping open the throttle when riding in high gear. The engine speed and motorcycle speed should increase together. If the RPM's rise quickly with no increase in speed this is almost a certain indication of clutch slippage.

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kawasaki gpz 1000 rx 1987 model

Running well at high revs would indicate that all the fuel and air it needs are getting to the engine and you also have a good spark. Probably no problem with air and fuel filter ( if fitted) or sparkplugs.

Running hot, and bad idling are signs of a lean air fuel mixture. The engine is probably not getting enough fuel at low revs.

This could be caused by an air leak between the carburettors and the engine. Check that the vacuum line to the fuel tap is properly secured at both ends. It is behind the fuel line at the tap.

Get a a short length of hollow plastic tube and use it like a stethascope - put one end to your ear and move the other end around your carburettor mounts with your engine revs as low as you can get, and listen for any sucking noises that would indicate a leak. Look for cracks in the rubber inlets.

The other possibility is that there is an internal blockage in the idling jets or idling fuel circuit. This is where dirt tends to lodge because the jet dimensions and passageways are very fine - The high speed jets are much bigger and dirt often just passes straight through.

Try a little bit of choke while the engine is warm to see if you get a stronger low speed response. If so that would point to an internal blockage.

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Possible clutch problem. Feels like setting off in 3rd gear.

replace your big clutch spring!!!!!!!! a 1000rpm spring. If the spring isn't stiff enough your scooter lose alot of its torque! and the spring loses its stiffness after some time.. that is normal The spring has the same effect as changing back a gear on a motorcycle. try it! I guarentee it.

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 kawasaki vulcan 1500 will not go into gear

You have found the problem, that saucer spring acts just like the pressure plate on the clutch of a standard transmission on a car. I had to replace one, and it was about $35.00. Good luck

Posted on May 15, 2009

DickCanFixIt
  • 948 Answers

SOURCE: kawasaki z750 abs. Vacuum (pression) in fuel tank

If you're building up vacuum or pressure in the fuel tank, your vent line is pinched or plugged. It is a rubber hose that comes off the fuel tank, usually runs down the right side and discharges vented air out the bottom somewhere.

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

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Hi,i have a 2007 territory turbo ghia,when parked in the driveway in p,or in drive as im taking off at low speeds there is a really bad viabration throughout the car,my mechanic just changed coilpacks


first off have you had the fault codes read
that will give you an indication of any electronic fault
I consider the problem is misfire but not from the coil packs but from bad injectors I would at this stage discount a problem torque converter as if there were missing /broken vanes the you would have more than a vibration and besides that oil or fluid has a capability of balancing out any unbalance ( laws of physics)
idling too low ( around 950 rpms for auto) may be a problem or the harmonic balancer could be failing
bad engine mounts could be allowing excessive engine movement especially on take off but if bad enough the engine mount which is a rubber insulator may be allowing the steel section to be vibrating metal on metal
So , have the fault codes read first
then check / replace any mount that is not up to new standard

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There are literally HUNDREDS of parts that can cause vibrations at certain speeds. There is NO WAY POSSIBLE for anyone online to tell you with any certainty where it is coming from. I have been in this business for 36+ years and I can tell you that it can be EXTREMELY DIFFICULT to nail down noises and vibrations when you have access to the vehicle and can hear and/or feel it yourself! Many times, a noise or vibration (especially a "lite" one) cannot even be felt or heard by the person testing the vehicle unless you specifically point it out to him. When I take into consideration that you said it only happens at 70-72 MPH, I wonder why it is that it even bothers you. It seems to me that this 2 MPH "window" would be very easy to avoid.
I think you will get a much better answer to your question by taking it to your mechanic and have him ride in the car with you so you can demonstrate the problem for him.

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2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Quadra Trac vibration Problem; Vibration from the front at speeds from 55 up. The vibration gets louder as you PUSH the gas to go to 60 then 65 mph, you feel it more as well and...


Vibrations usually don't make noise BUT, a bad hub bearing or a differential that is severely worn can.
Bearings generally don't both fail at the same time so if you hear the noise on one side more than the other, likely that one has failed. You should also check the diff fluid level. (low lube level will quickly destroy the gear set) I'd go as far as removing the cover and checking the gears and looking at the lube itself to see if it has any metal in it.
I could tell you much more by driving it but obviously I can't do that!!

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Sounds like a wheel bearing issue. You need to take it to your local friendly mechanic so they can put it on the lift and find out which one it is. Good luck

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THIS NOISE IS USUALLY THE HUB. HAVE SOMEONE GO WITH YOU ON A TEST DRIVE. GET THE ROARING TO HAPPEN AT ITS LOUDEST AND GENTLY SWERVE THE CAR LEFT AND RIGHT. DON'T BE SURPRISED IF YOU THINK BOTH HUBS ARE BAD. LIFT THE FRONT OF THE CAR AND PUT IT ON JACK STANDS. PULL OUTWARD ON THE BOTTOM OF THE TIRE WHILE PUSHING INWARD ON THE TOP OF THE WHEEL. IF THE WHEEL MOVES EXCESSIVELY YOU FOUND THE HUB THAT IS NOISY. USING A MECHANICS STETHOSCOPE YOU CAN SOMETIMES HEAR A ROARING TYPE NOISE ON THE BACKING PLATE SIDE OF THE HUB WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING AND THE TRANS IN GEAR. TRY NOT TO GET THE SPEED UP TOO FAR ESPECIALLY IF YOU CAN HEAR THE NOISE AT LOW SPEED, YOU DON'T WANT TO VIBRATE OFF THE STANDS.

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By the sound of what your saying i think the easiest and cheapest thing is to check the driveshaft. Besure to check the uni's. You may not see any problem with it if this is the case remove it and check the yoke of the gearbox & diff if these are ok take the driveshaft in in the shop to be rebalanced.

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Get a friend to turn wheel back and forth in the garage, get on the ground and use your hands to feel where the noise is coming from. Metal gives off a significant amount of vibrations with noise. Should be easy to tell where it's coming from. Could be your rack and pinion, however I would be much more willing to consider ball joints. Hard to tell without getting "down and dirty" on the floor under the vehicle feeling for the noise.

Could be your steering gearbox, tierod end, rack and pinion piston, low power steering fluid, bad serp belt, ball joints, front struts/mounting hardware.

Also test steering with the entire vehicle on the floor and with the front end off the ground lifted by a few floor jacks lifting on the frame of the vehicle.

Ball joints especially on Ford vehicles tend to squeak after a while (mostly since they are the sealed type) even if they pass a safety inspection.

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