1990 GSF 400 clutch feels like a dead lever, help!
Like I said, feels like a dead lever, or like the cable is broken, but it's not. The actuator pin that disengages the clutch gets pushed in when I pull the cable, but the clutch won't move a bit. It's running and idling fine and even rides through every gear no problen, it's just got a dead clutch. is there a pin broken on the inside of the clutch? or could brand of oil affect this? weak springs? help me out.. please and thanks.
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Re: 1990 GSF 400 clutch feels like a dead lever, help!
When you say dead clutch but you are able to reide throught the gearsis that to say you are reving it up & dumping it into gear without the clutch are you doing this with the bike on the centre stand or on the road or are you selecting the gear & the bike stalls when the clutch is released if you have put high detergent motor oil intended for use in cars you can bet therin lys you problem. Let me know how you get on Regards Geoff
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First, make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly..This video is a basic tutorial.. use it for a guide BUT DO the steps as I TELL YOU..
1. Loose the cable adjuster at the handle bar.. run the adjuster in - (give it as much slack as you can)
2. The clutch actuator lever on the engine case should be able to move about 8mm (.325") before it starts to disengage (gets hard to move)..
3. Adjust the cable at the bottom adjustment to take up any slack at this point.. ..you MIGHT/should be able to feel some (NOT FULL TENSION) clutch disengagement in the handle bar (clutch) lever at this point.. IF YOU CAN'T - tighten the cable at the bottom adjustment ONE round at a time until you can feel (a small amount) tension and have at least/about 12mm (.48") max. of play in the lever (BETWEEN THE LEVER AND THE MOUNT when YOU START TO FEEL TENSION... - NOW - in the clutch lever (handle bar).. when you can feel tension in the lever... >> you should start adjusting the lever to have (at least) approximately 1/8" - (3mm) of play (gap) between the lever and mount.. when you have this set correctly, the clutch adjustment question is eliminated. If the adjustment has not helped and you had to do A LOT of adjusting. you need to replace the clutch cable.. and do this adjustment process again. NOW adjustment is NOT part of your problem. If this fixes your problem GREAT!!
.. If not.. now.. we have to move internally..The next issue will be grooves worn into the arms of the clutch basket be the fiber clutch plate ears..(see picture) (the ones that keep the plates stationary when you shift to help disengage the clutch). Also check the actuator arm (see picture below) for wear..
Ok.. if you have gotten this far and everything seems good, reinstall AFTER YOU HAVE METICULOUSLY CLEANED THE BASKET!! The clutch should be working now.
Congrats!! If you need professional port work contact me.. Suzuki RM80 250 89 95
The cable may not be broken but it still may need adjusting or replacing. Obviously not a hydraulic problem as you say cable.
Are you able to put it in gear when the engine is off? If you cannot find a gear and find neutral again without the engine running, just by rocking it backwards and forwards, then it may be the gear selector that is the problem (or the gearbox itself) and not the clutch.
Does the clutch lever feel tighter or looser than normal? Tighter could mean a problem with the clutch push rod or method of actuation and looser could mean the cable is fully stretched for that position so adjust or replace it.
I'm not too familiar with the YZ125. If the clutch lever (where the lower end of the clutch cable connects) is on the outside of the transmission case, see if you can push the lever back and forth. Feel for resistance If the clutch lever moves both ways freely, the clutch return spring in the clutch is broken, or the clutch has failed. You'll have to drain the engine oil and remove the clutch cover. Then remove and disassemble the clutch to replace the return spring... or take it to a shop and have them do it.
Sure you can fix it yourself. First lets make sure the cable is broke. When you pull in the clutch does the other end of the cable move?
If not then disconnect the cable from the lever and pull on the end by hand. Did you just pull a broken cable out of the sleeve?
If so then purchase a new cable and replce the broken one paying particular attention to the way it is routed. place the adjuster on the lever end a tad less than half way. Adjust the clutch end of the cable to take up the slack. Work the lever 3 times ( to seat everything) and use the adjuster at the lever for final adjustment. You want about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play at the end of the lever befor the cable starts to actuate the clutch arm. Adjust and lock.