I took off the back wheel to repair the tire and upon putting it back on it seems the nuts secured to the axel that tighten the wheel on the fork do not allow free rotation of the wheel. Did I miss something when putting it back together?
Re: back wheel tightens on fork when secure the nuts
Yes u forget to put the washer..before the nut...check all this other wise u got the same problem means check your chain adjustment propely. because some time your refit the wheel means that got problem in chain adjustment. better u go for bike mechanic shop
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First loosen the lugs on the tire and then jack up and support with jack stands. Then remove the tire. Your lower ball joints are located directly behind the brake rotors. You will need a PICKLE FORK or ball joint remover. First remove the but that secures the ball joint and then place the fork between the rubber boot and the hub assembly and proceed to hit with a hammer until the joint breaks loose. Or use a Honda ball joint remover and follow the instructions included with them. Use a wooden mallet to tap new one in or use a Honda ball joint press. Put on the new nut. Then put on your tire and secure the lug nuts. Once you have removed the jack stands and jack tighten your lugs again to ensure safety. Please purchase a repair manual for full instructions.
Putting uneven loading on the forks(twist) may cause binding and harsh action but I haven't heard of them locking up. Try the following order of installation. position the wheel and slide in the axel. Tighten the axel, leaving the pinch nuts loose. Spin the tire and stop it a few times using the front brake. Tighten the pinch nuts. Put bike on the ground and see if forks still bind. If they do then loosen the pinch bolts, lock the front brake and try to compress the forks. This should align the forks. Tighten the pinch bolts. Check forks again. If you still have problems someting is wrong like bent fork tube or slider, misaligned triple clamp, maybe a bent axel.You might take off the fork tubes and push on them seperately to make sure they feel ok. Then do the install checking the forks at each step to find the place where binding starts. Good luck.
Loosen both nuts on front wheel. Stand bike straight up, or set bike upside down on seat and handlebars. With fingers on fork and thumb on wheel, pull wheel so it is centered on fork.
Now tighten one nut part way. Keep holding wheel. You may need somebody to help. Then tighten other nut. Go back to fist nut and tighten a bit more. Repeat back and forth tightening until nuts are tight and wheel is in center of fork.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The lower ball joint is integral to the lower control assembly and cannot be serviced individually. Any movement of the lower ball joint detected as a result of inspection requires replacement of the lower control arm assembly.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the nut and bolt securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Remove the nut and bolt securing the control arm to the vehicle sub frame.
Install the control arm assembly to the vehicle sub-frame using the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 69-86 ft. lbs. (93-117 Nm).
Install the lower ball joint into the steering knuckle and secure it with the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 32-43 ft. lbs. (43-59 Nm).
Install the wheel and tire assembly and lower the vehicle.
The front wheel axle fits into the fork, there is a U shaped notch in each fork leg at the end of the fork. There are two washers with bent tangs on them that fit into holes just above where the axle fits into the fork. Slide the washers onto the axle, one on each side. the tangs on the washers should fit into the small holes above each U shaped notch that the axle is in. Next screw on the nuts supplied for the fork. The tire should be centered between the fork legs before you tighten the nuts to secure the front wheel to the fork.
Put the car on a level ground, with the transmission in PARK. Lossen the nuts of the tire to change. Chuck back-tires if changing front, or chuck front-tires if changing back-tires. Jack up the car enough to raise the concerned tire off the ground. Remove nuts, and pull out the tire. Put in spare tire.
Hand tighten the nuts a considerable, but you might use the wrench to tighten a bit because this is a big/heavy car. Lower the car, and again tighten the nuts securely in a diagonal pattern with the wrench- two grunts used to be the rule of the thumb.
front axle installation: looking at the front of the bike:
slide the wheel into position and insert the axle from the left. with axle now through the right hand fork, install nut and tighten the left fork pinch bolts to secure the axle for tightening the nut. tighten the nut to 29.5 ftlbs. and loosen the left pinch bolts. now tighten the right pinch bolts and compress the front suspension while the left (from front) is still loose. now allow suspension to rest naturally and tighten all 4 pinch bolts to 11 ftlbs. your done.......the axle is tighten against the rotor side and the other fork is then tighten in it's natural position so as not to cause premature seal and bushing failure and increasing stiction.
back off everthing. axle nut. pinch bolts and brake caliper. just nip up axle nut finger tight and pump the forks up and down a couple of times. then tighten up axle nut. then do the same with the caliper and pump again. do the pinch bolts last. if you do it in a different order sometimes the axle is not centered and pulls the forks slightly out of true when you do up the nut.. good luck