- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
That's it in the pic? Kind of hard to gauge the bolt size from the picture. It must be metric, though. My guess, it looks like a 17 mm socket or wrench would fit. 15, 17, 18, or 19 mm, those are probably the choices. Don't you or a friend have wrenches or sockets that you could try?
Prior any doing I recommend to remove negative terminal on the battery, Carefully detach air flow meter wire plug by press the lip on it. Also unplug t p s and ground wires on the plenum,detach hose and sensor in one piece with the top of the air filter , use a twelve mm socket and remove intake manifold plenum bolts ,remove plenum ,Wha la unplug coil wires, with a ten mm socket remove coil unit .bingo...use 5/8 sparkplug socket.
Tools you will need before you start1. 1/4" ratchet2. 1/4" extention3. 10 mm socket, 1/4" drive4. small flat bladed screwdriver5. 3/8" ratchet6. 3/8" long extention7. 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8 " drive8. air compressor with blow gun or can of compressed air9. long needle nose pliers10. 1/4" internal diameter rubber hose 8 inches long11. wire coat hanger12. neverseez lubricantProcedure1. Remove the two 10 mm cap nuts on the top plastic housing over the engine2. Remove the two fasteners on the back of the housing and remove the plastic cover3. You will see four plastic blocks with four wire clips on each block. These blocks are individual coils for each sparkplug.4. Use compressed air to blow out debris around the blocks5. Use the small flat bladed screwdriver to carefully lift up on the tab that holds the electrical connector onto the block and slide the wire clip off the block.6. Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the plastic block onto the engine. Use the needle pliers to firmly grasp the plastic screw and pull straight up to remove it 7. Loosen the 10 mm nut on end of the plastic rail that holds the wiring harness for the blocks so that the round plastic washer on the bottom of the block will not break when you pull off the block8. Carefully pull the plastic block out of the engine. There is a 4 inch tube attached to the block that extends into the engine to the spark plug. It will take some twisting and pulling but you must be careful not to catch the back part of the round plastic washer that you cannot see, on the bottom of the plastic wiring harness.9. The spark plug is at the bottom of the 4 inch hole.10. Blow compressed air down the hole to remove debris11. Use a 5/8 sparkplug socket with a rubber collar on the 3/8" extention to remove the spark plug. The rubber collar will hold onto the spark plug as it is removed.12. The NGK website recommends making sure the spark plugs have the correct gap .044 but the spark plug box says not to adust the gap because you might damage the needle point iridium tip. The new spark plug has a protective cardboard tube that is removed.13. Spark plugs can stick inside aluminum heads and break off when you try remove them, leaving only the threads of the plug inside the engine which will necessitate removing the head to remove broken spark plug. Putting neverseez on the threads of the new spark plug will prevent that in future spark plug changes14. Now comes an interesting choice. You can use the rubber tube over the neck of the spark plug to slowly drop it down the hole and hand tighten it or you can use the spark plug socket with the rubber collar. If you use the spark plug socket, the rubber collar will stick to the plug and you will pull off the extention, leaving the socket in the hole. A pair of long needlenose pliers will reach into the hole and remove the socket, but the rubber collar may remain on the plug and you will have to bend a piece of coathanger with a short 90 degree tip to reach into the hole and pull out the rubber collar. The rubber collar is there to prevent you from cocking a regular 5/8" deep socket at an angle which will break off the neck of the sparkplug, necessitating another 10 dollars and another trip to the autoparts store.15. After the spark plug is hand tight, give it 1/2 turn more.16. Replace the square block, being sure that the black silicone gasket on the bottom of the round plastic washer does not get bound up on the engine post where the 10 mm bolt goes. Tighten the bolt17. replace the electrical clip.18. Go to the next spark plug and repeat the procedure.19. After the last spark plug is done, be sure to retighten the 10 mm nut on the wiring harness rail20. Replace the plastic cover over the engine and you are done