Question about 2000 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja

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2000 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja rusty tank bad gas

2000 Kawasaki zx6r my gas tank had a dent in it so I bought I used one off craigslist I went to place it hooked it all back up turned petcock on and when I try to start it clicks when I bought tank it was half full of bad gas?? flooded plugs clogged fuel filter help!!! @

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  • kawasaki Master
  • 47,205 Answers

Hi, Djplos to properly fix fuel contamination issues you must start at the source the "GAS TANK" you will need to buy a gas tank rust remover and metal prep solution system, go online and research the different products available, stay away from rust converters and liquid Kreem liners, I recommend POR15 because it stops rust permanently you will also need some nuts and bolts ball bearings etc. and a service manual.
1. Remove the tank and drain all fuel and let dry.
2. Remove petcock and filter or fuel pump and filter.
3. Seal all openings except the top fuel filler opening with tape, plugs, or rubber *******.
4. Fill the tank with a strong solution of Dawn soap and water, seal the opening and shake vigorously for 1 minute and let sit for 30 minutes, remove the gas cap and pour out contents, rinse with a garden hose or pressure washer and let dry thoroughly.
4. Pour in 1/2 cup of nuts, bolts, ball bearings, etc. and seal the opening, shake vigorously for 2 minutes.
5. Open the gas cap and shake out all nuts and bolts along with dirt and rust, use a flashlight to inspect results and repeat as necessary until all rust is removed.
6. Following the directions of your rust remover product begin the procedure of removing residual rust, remember bare metal when dry will start to rust/oxidize immediately so make your last step a final rinse of solvent or kerosene anything that has a petroleum base, your first tank of fuel will mix with the residual solvent and not damage your fuel system.
7. Properly clean or replace all fuel filters, petcock, and fuel lines.
8. Remove and disassemble carburetor/s and properly clean all parts use a carburetor dip if necessary for the really bad ones.
9. For you injected folks use carb cleaner for the injectors and fuel rails and test with battery jumpers for proper function. If your not in a hurry I recommend the services of Injectorrx.com
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.zxforums.com/forums/mechanical-technical/43889-rust-gas-tank-how-do-i-deal-ti.html
Fuel tank rust removal ninjette org Fuel tank rust removal ninjette org
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Posted on Mar 24, 2018

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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DickCanFixIt
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SOURCE: is my dented front frame repairable?

No way to tell for sure without someone who straightens frames taking a look at it. I've dealt with Ron at framestraightsystems.com, he will give you an honest opinion.

No, parts are not cheap. Anywhere.

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: can i fix dented frame? where to find cheap parts?

If the dent is only a dent, yes you can fix it with body putty and paint. If the "dent" is really a bend that has put the frame out of alignment then, no you can't fix it > not properly anyway. It may be possible for a frame shop to straighten but you can probably get a good used frame for the same money.

Google " motorcycle salvage kawasaki ". You can probably find a frame there.

Please take a moment and rate this solution. Thanks djukome!

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

MakisRC51
  • 408 Answers

SOURCE: Does anyone have a Vaccum hose diagram for a 1995 Kawasaki ZX6R?

One of these pipes is for overflow gas.You just route it downwards.For the other one I need more info.Some bikes have a second overflow tube tha collects the water near the gas cap on the gas tank and goes the same way like the other one.Blow in them from the loose end having them attached to the tank and see what happens.

Posted on May 26, 2009

bytestream
  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: Kawasaki GT750 Fuel dumping

Sounds like the float valve is stuck in the carby and allowing fuel to keep flowing.

Give the carby bowl a light tap with some wood to free up the float valve. You may have to pull the carby off and have a look if that doesn't help. Fuel cannot bypass the float valve in normal operation.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

DoubleClutch
  • 376 Answers

SOURCE: Air box and crank case fuel flooding problem

Well there only one way the fuel can get into the crankcase and that's from the fuel tank. The petcock must be draining and the float needles are not stopping the fuel flow. Do you have a prime position on the petcock? If so do not run the bike in the position. Try topping the tank off with gas and letting it sit for a while and see is the gas has gone down and then check the crankcase and see if there's fuel in it again. i still say its got to be your petcock.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Vacuum line from the petcock to intake manifold cracked.
5. Float needle and seat sticking.
6. Float level too low.
7. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
8. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
10. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
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Hi, Amyl_woods82 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2004 Kawasaki ZX-6R will not start


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Tola_man2010 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Joe and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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My 1993 Kawasaki ninja is having problems. For some reason the vacuum spout on my tank leaks gas along with the regular gas spout. So when I plug my vacuum line into my first carb (I have my other 3...


Hi, Pez42 for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

96 Ninja zx6r Fuel Tank breather hose leaking gas


It sounds like that hose which runs fron the cap area (inside) the fuel tank to the back bottom is broke, if you take it to a Kawasaki dealer and have your dealer call Kawasaki there is a good chance it will get covered as long as the tank is damaged. Those hoses (metal) that run inside the fuel tak sometimes crack, there is really not way of fixing them unless you cut the tank open and then you would need to reweld it.

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2 Answers

Can i fix dented frame? where to find cheap parts?


If the dent is only a dent, yes you can fix it with body putty and paint. If the "dent" is really a bend that has put the frame out of alignment then, no you can't fix it > not properly anyway. It may be possible for a frame shop to straighten but you can probably get a good used frame for the same money.

Google " motorcycle salvage kawasaki ". You can probably find a frame there.

Please take a moment and rate this solution. Thanks djukome!

Apr 14, 2009 | kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja Motorcycles

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