Question about 1992 Suzuki GS 500 E

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Just rebuilt carbs, the bike starts but i have to hold my hand a little over the top of the air box,seal around carbs and air box seem tight what could it be? the bike says on top of the back fender no need to adjust the air fuel mix..

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First is your choke open or closed when you startthe bike.Try adjusting your carb a/f mix as you are running rich (high fuel mix ratio). Good enough?

Posted on Apr 26, 2010

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1 Answer

Shouldnt bike start with out air box assembly


Are there any valves, vacuum hoses related to or on the air box? Otherwise should not matter but if you need to hold hand over the intake to raise pressure to suck fuel out of a carbureted system need to know more about it. Did it run okay before air box was removed? Try to re-install the air box would possibly be the simplest way to find out because if it then runs okay you have your answer and if not you need to go further into the problem. Has anyone been messing with carbs, as with a carbureted system in contrast to a fuel injected system where fuel pressure would be governing and holding hand over the intake should not affect fuel delivery at all but only fuel rail pressure or injector size or pulse width would. In a carbureted system the float level is the most critical thing. and if it is not correct this could also be your problem and that would be a first thing to correct. What type of carb(s) are on the bike??? CV or otherwise??? Does the bike run at higher rpm's or just not at all unless fuel is being sprayed into the intake or intake covered??? If not at all there could be a myriad of problems. But again, poper float level is critical and should be your first carbureted system check point. Also fuel filter, pinched or otherwise restricted fuel lines etc. Does the bike have a vacuum operated fuel shutoff valve?? If so does it source its vacuum from the air box?? Could there be a massive downstream induction system air leak?? Check for that also BUT the history of the bike's running before the present problem is crucial in diagnosing. ALSO not assuming is important and I have been assuming it is a four stroke engine. If it is 2 stroke there are a myriad of different things to look at right away. SO, give some more information to get some more assistance.

John

Aug 23, 2014 | 1983 Suzuki Tempter GR 650

1 Answer

My 97' rm 125 after riding for half an hour starts reving uncontrollably and i think it is over heating but don't know whats wrong. The bike is bored 60 over


The description given indicates a lean fuel / air mixture. This is usually caused by rubber seals going bad between the carb and the cylinder. Air that has not gone through the carb is mixing with the air/fuel that has gone through. First check that the two air vent hoses coming from the center of the carb fit tight. Then that the carb fittings at the front of the carb are tight and that the fitting on the cylinder is tight. If the mounts are tight the seals are leaking. Replace any gaskets, "O" ring seals and rubber manifold fittings between the carb and cylinder.

Jun 06, 2011 | Suzuki RM 125 Motorcycles

1 Answer

My el250 starts to splutter and the power decreases will ridding


You have probobly check these things but worth a good look.
1. Is the choke working correctly
2. Is there extra air getting into fuel mix? Air filter and pre filter in good order and not perrised, Are the air box rubbers sealing on carbs and air box 100% these tend to harden an draw back into airbox off the carbs.
3. Check the above then remove the air filter and clean all part in air box housing any dirt/particals removed check deeper into air box also as there can be residue build up there, remove the pre filter from top of airbox housing and clean replace filter ir required start bike and warm up do not over rev with filter element out , spay some carb cleaner up and into air box slowly adding throttle as you do so, do this several times refit with new air filter if required fit the top of the housing checking that the little rubber gasket is in tact.
4. Check also the petrol tap is working correctly the vacuum, may not be 100% causing your power lag/starting problem.

Feb 25, 2011 | kawasaki EL 250 Eliminator V Motorcycles

1 Answer

When i kick my bike up it just starts reving up on its own to the top end


This is caused by an air leak between the carb and the cylinder. The un-carburetored air leans the fuel mix. Replace any rubber seals and rubber manifolds. They get hard and do not seal out extra air well. Be sure hose clamps are tight. You didn't say what year and model the bike is. Getting parts for older bikes can be a problem. If the dealer doesn't have the parts, try the website below. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

Aug 23, 2010 | Honda CR 250 R Motorcycles

1 Answer

3200 MAC,I REBUILT THE CARB,WOULD ONLY RUN ON FULL CHOKE,I BOUGHT A NEW WALBRO CARB INSTALLED IT, STILL DOES THE SAME THING.IT SEEMS THERE IS AN AIR LEAK,OR STARVING FOR FUEL.


sounds ilke a ai leak the manifold block gasket may be leaking or a crack in the carb to barrel insulator- or it has a torn / perished intake boot or the impulse line is perished , could even be a loose barrel and the base gasket is leaking - or leaking crankcase seals

you have ruled out secondary compression and spark and blocked muffler

only proper way to know is to remove muffler and carb, block off both
inlet and exhaust with rubber gasket and a metal plate - make sure the inlet metal plate has a access hole for you to pressurise the c/case
remove clutch starter assy and flywheel
set to psiton to tdc and pressurise the c/case to 7 psi
brush around seals and gaskets with soapy water and see where bubbles are comming from that will be your leak it may be quite substanicial - check main seals, c/case joints, manifold block carb end and cylinder end and of course the manifold block itself

2 strokes need a air tight c/case to operate to fuel pump in the carb and to pump mixture from the crankcase to the cylinder

if sucking air instead of fuel they can be really hard to start, stall alot , have no power , will not idle , and seem to overspeed and get very hot
not to mention can damage tp piston and cylinder

have a look or let your local shop take a look for you

cheers

Aug 05, 2010 | McCulloch 16 Inch Gas Chain Saw MCC1635AK

2 Answers

Bike runs lean. when you let off the gas it stays


is your intake boot cracked? when it is idling, spray carb cleaner around carb and intake. If it revs, it is an air leak. Also, your slide could be stuck or a kink in throttle cable.

Dec 05, 2009 | 2002 Honda CR 250 R

2 Answers

High idle on start up with choke off.


This sounds like an air leak is making the fuel/air mixture too lean. Any air leaks between the carb and the head will lean the mixture. Old, hard and cracked rubber manifold parts are the usual culprits. Old gaskets and "O" ring seals can leak air also. A bad head gasket seal happens at times also, as does an exhaust valve not fully seating. Air leaks are the idle speed problem.

A different problem is likely present in the carbs and that is what is causing the rich fuel smell. The carbs must be balanced. Example > If three of four carbs are perfectly balanced and one carb is not, then the 3 are "driving" the 4th carb. This will cause gas to spit into the air cleaner from the "bad" carb and can cause a backfire or two. Special vacuum gauges are needed to balance the carbs. Also be aware the carbs must be scycronizsed as well. The slides on all four carbs must lift at exactly the same time when the throttle is cracked.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

I don't get paid for my answers but I do take pride in them, and I am only trying to help. So if you will, > > A “very helpful” rating for these answers? Thanks!

Jun 14, 2009 | 1977 Suzuki GS 750

1 Answer

LEAKING OVERFLOW PROBLIM


it sounds to me like the carb float levels are out of adjustment and it is overfilling the bowls,or,the needle valve seats are worn and leaking,which will allow fuel to continue filling the bowls even though it looks like they are closed,remove the carbs from the bike,remove the bowls,turn the cabs upside down close the floats(push them right to the top,this simulates full bowls)then blow throgh the fuel inlet pipe,if you can hear air escaping from around the seats they are faulty,also check that the seats themselves are tight in the carb body,i dont know why but gsxr carbs seem to shake the valve seats loose..hope this helps

May 30, 2009 | 2000 Suzuki GSX-R 600

1 Answer

Dt 125lc 1987 back misfires and does not pick up on acceleration


I am going to have you do a series of things to clear up the problem. First come the basics >

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new STOCK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Don't be cheap, use a lot of cleaner. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean and dry the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Set the idle speed with the idle screw. This process should get you back on the road unless other problems exist.
Let's say that the bike is no better >
  • How good is your battery?
  • Carb, head, intake manifold and carb mounted tight?
  • Does the carb intake manifold have reeds? What condition are they in?
  • Remove the flywheel cover. Take hold of the flywheel and, without turning the wheel, lift the flywheel up and down then left and right. Any movement or was the flywheel rock solid? If movement then the crank bearings need replaced along with the crank seals.
  • Speaking of crank seals, how old are your seals? The bike ain't gonna run with bad seals.
  • I don't recall for sure, does the bike have CDI? If so, have the dealer test the CDI and the coil.
  • If no CDI, when was the last time the points and condenser were replaced or points filed and set? Get the coil checked.
  • How old are the piston and rings? You could have problems there. What shape is the cylinder wall in? Scared up, low spots (you will not see the low spots without running a cylinder hone through the bore).

There isn't much more to do. You just rebuilt the engine.
Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Apr 02, 2009 | 2004 Yamaha DT 125 R

1 Answer

My DR 800S 1991 IS LOSING POWER


you say theres petrol running from the hose from the airbox? if so that aint right and sounds like your carburettor floats are sticking open which would flood the bike and make it run rough and to rich sometimes bashing the float bowl on the bottom of the carb whilst still on the bike can free a sticky float use a bit of 2x2 or 2x4 and jab it dont use a sledge hammer or something lol if that dont work strip down the float chamber and clean and try again all the best

Mar 30, 2009 | 1990 Suzuki DR 800 S

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