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My money is on a partial blockage of the main jet or the passageway to it. You're having to force it to run through the idle jet by fully choking the incoming air. There's not enough gas coming in with the choke open to allow it to run.
I'm thiniking total carb disassembly, carb cleaner and an air compressor combined with a ton of patience will take care of the issue.
You mean the revs come up even if the throttle is left in idle?
If yes: it means your idle runs too lean AND the carbs aren't balanced ( one gives more air than another )
Unscrew all the idle mix screws 1/2 turn
To balance, remove 1 spark plug lead, check the rev falling.
Replace the lead and remove another one. Check the rev fall etc...
Regulate the carb opening so that all the cilinder disconnects give the same rev-drop.
Hi Fareseedjr, high idle on fuel injected models can be casued by a faulty IAC valve located on the top front of the induction module. It has either failed electronically and needs to be replaced or mechanically getting gummed by contaminated engine blow by. You can try cleaning the unit by removing the air cleaner and backing plate, unplug, unscrew and remove the IAC. Using carb cleaner and " LOW " volume compressed air to clean the metal pintle and shaft that is spring loaded and has an operating length of just under 1 inch. Aventurous souls who did not heed the low air warning have launched pintle and spring into parts unknown. There is no guarantee this will work but worth a try since a new one is $50 Good luck
TRY THIS;WHILE RUNNING SPRAY WD40 ALL OVER ENGINE..MOVE SLOWLY WHILE SPRAYING..NOW IF ENGINE REVS UP MAJIOR VACUMM LEAK....FIX AND BE HAPPY..GOOD LUCK..INDIAN HEAD SHALAC IS THE BEST SEALANT FOR ALL GASKETS AND VERY CHEAP COMPARED TO OTHERS THAT FAIL AFTER GETTING HOT A COUPLE OF TIMES..BUT I WOULD SAY YOU HAVE SOME KIND OF LEAK..THE ENGINE WILL BE SUCKING ALOT OF AIR THRU THIS AREA.PLUS IF IT LOOKS WET AROUND GASKET OR OIL LEAKS FAILING GASKETS..POTENTAIL VACUMM AREA..HOW DID IT RUN AFTER REBUILT..COULD BE SHOTTY WORK..JUST EXPLORING ALL AVENUES..COULD NEED HEAD RETORQUE IF THEY DIDNT USE LOCK TITE..BLUE NEVER THE RED..RED IS PERMANTE NEVER COMMING APART..HOPE THIS HELPS..BUT IF THE WORK YOU HAD DONE IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY THAN GIVE IT BACK TO GET FIXED..
Have you looked closely for air leaks between carby and engine, airbox obstructions or wrong sized pilot jet? Choke plunger thread not loose allowing extra fuel to surge through? Try turning air mixture screw IN half turn. The site below has the complete bike in exploded diagrams. Hope this all helps, good luck.
hi,just a thought,if you have had two sets of carbs on it and they have been tuned/balanced and still does it,then it is probably not the carbs causing the problem.check your throttle cable,check it is in good condition with no kinks or tight spots,also check it is not jammed between any other component causing a sticky spot,also,check the freeplay in the cable,you should have around a 1/4 " freeplay at the carbs,with the engine running turn the steering lock to lock,the engine revs shouldn't change..s aticky cable can cause the problem you describe.hope this helps...cheers
Initially, pls confirm that it uses a two-stroke 50CC engine. Additionally, your description "It refuses to rev beyond idle speeds." could indicate several conditions:
throttle up above idle speed, engine stalls/dies - fuel related issue, fuel starvation, clogged jets, nozzles, too much 2T oil, contaminated fuel (water). Basically a carb rebuilt;
throttle up above idle speed, no change in engine RPM - mechanical problem, possible broken accelerator/throttle cable, stuck plunger in carb, detached needle valve;
throttle up above idle speed, engine backfires/dies - electrical issue, check CDI, stators, trigger/pulse, their physical state/mounting, electrical connections;
throttle up above idle speed, engine hesitates/flat spot - air/vacuum issue, check rubber coupling from carb to intake manifold, blocked or absent air filter.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.
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