Question about 2007 Yamaha YZF-R1
"most" bikes on average without filter change take anywhere from 2.8 to 3.0 qts. I always purchase 4 quarts because an extra one will always come in handy in the future anyway. First your bike i believe has a sight gauge... First stand the bike upright on a stand or have someone hold it up for you pour in 2 and 1/2 quarts, put fill cap on, start bike, let warm up for about a minute to let the oil settle, then turn off and then start pouring in slowly till it gets to a little above 3/4 full on the sight gauge...you never want to overfill it could cause engine damage. Now just remember how much oil you put in and that is the approx. amount.
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
Hi Eric .. 3.1 ltrs with a filter or 2.9 without
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: changing yzf r1 frame
you wont get one, you just have to figure it out as you go. start by stripping all your bodywork off and removing the engine, then the front forks rear wheel and wiring harness. then replace it all on your new frame. keep your work area clean and tidy, mark all electrical connections you have to undo with tape and write on it where they re-connect to.
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
YZF600R is a carbureted model. OIL: The oil sight glass is a round window, low on the right side. Very hard to try to see when astride the bike, even if you use a mirror on an extension rod. Have a friend hold the bike level,perhaps, while you check. Oil should be sighted after the bike has been sitting for a time after riding. I suggest using a good 10W-40 regular motorcycle oil (Least expensive around here in Boston is to buy Kawasaki by the gallon at Riverside) I found the pesky 1st-to-2nd shift to be more direct with this oil than with synthetic. I had plenty of opportunity to compare the two types. GAS: No reserve, but as noted, there is a low fuel light, in the row of lights that includes the neutral light and the high beam indicator. You ought to be getting over 50 m.p.g., so you can estimate your 'range' from that. I usually fill up again around the 180 mile period. I think I've seen the low fuel light once in 6 years of ownership. OH: I suggest you treat the gas, on a regular basis, with 'marine' Stabil, not the regular stuff. I have had a 'gummy' Yamaha Virago 250 to care for, that I thought would never clear its fuel problems. Last winter ('08-'09) stored it with the marine Stabil in the tank and run for a while to get it into the carbs also. Within a few minutes of running it this spring-actually a couple weeks ago- it smoothed out and has run fine since. I believe this HAS to be as a result of the treatment of the fuel (run through the carbs before the winter storage) with this special Stabil. It was recommended by Carlo at Riverside- I'll have to remember to thank him for the advice. N.B. I always change the fuel (siphon it out, put that Stabil'ed but 'old' stuff into my car tank, refill the bikes with fresh 93 octane) each Spring.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
Full synthetic oil will work the best for your bike. Synthetic has been over-engineered in a good way.
P.S: DO NOT USE car synthetic oil as they have TOO MUCH friction modifiers (not good for wet clutch).
Posted on Oct 16, 2009
THE OPERATION OF THE CLUTH ON HIS MODEL IS OF CABLE TYPE, IF THE CLUTCH IS OPPERATING CORRECTLY THE 1ST THING TO CHECK WOULD BE THE CABLE, REMOVE THE CABLE YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO PULL THE INNER WIRE SMOOTHLY TO AND FRO, IF YOU NEED TO USE ALOT OF EFORT TO DO THIS THEN YOU WILL NEED TO REPLACE THE CABLE,MAKING SURE YOU HAVE ADEQUIT FREE PLAY AT THE LEVER WHEN RE FITTED. OBSERVE THE ROUTE THE CABLE TAKES BEFORE REMOVAL AND REPLACE IN THE SAME WAY, YOU MAY ALSO TRY TO GET SOME LITE OIL DOWN THE CABLE, THOUGH I SUSPECT THIS WILL BE ALMOST INPOSSIBLE IF IT IS THIS TIGHT TO OPPERATE
Posted on Aug 15, 2010
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