Question about Yamaha V Star Classic 650 Motorcycles

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2005 Yamaha V Star 650 Classic fuel line routing

There is a rubber line that comes from near the fuel shut-off valve and terminates at a connector attached to one of the cylinders, located behind the air filter. The end of the hose, where it attached to this connector, is open. No plug and I do not see any other hose that could have come loose. When the ignition is turned on, fuel begins to stream out of this open-ended hose. Anyone know what's up with this? Have I lost a hose or a terminating plug somehow?

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  • Yamaha Master
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Hi, Acrs for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2005 Yamaha Star 650 Classic fuel line routing Google Search
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Posted on Jun 12, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

cape cod bob
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SOURCE: how to lower the idle on a 2002 yamaha 650 v-star classic?

under the left side of the gas tank you will see i black knob/screw at the end of what looks like a hose. the knob faces the rear of bike. that adjusts the idle. its real easy to find and the only adjustment you can make to the carbs.

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

deathmetal97
  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: Need to get oil

First of all, I want to compliment you on your bike! That V-Star is in so many ways, one of the best all around bikes....Very durable engines, user friendly, comfortable and DEPENDABLE, not to mention one the best value to dollar ratio on the market, right along next to the Suzuki Boulevard....Not to get off subject but I enjoy these bikes thoroughly!

You want to make SURE that the only oil you use is a quality oil, which will have THE seal of approval stamp on the bottle that says that it meets the requirements of all the major motor corporations you want to make ABSOLUTELY sure that the ONLY oil that goes in that bike's crank case and gear box is specifically intended for use with a "MULTI-PLATE WET CLUTCH" system.....Otherwise a very bad day can be predicted. "Champion Oil" is a reputable brand and preferred thier 2-stroke raceing oil over all else when I raced 250cc class arena-cross. I have since retired from dirt bike racing to take up a much safer and peaceful profession in law enforcement....But I know Champion makes 4-stroke case oil thats compatible with wet clutches....Yama-Lube is ok too...Just make sure you see "Wet Clutch" on the bottle and it's all a matter of consistenly works best for you and preference after that.

Posted on May 16, 2009

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: Yamaha 06' V-star 650 idle prolbem!

Fuel filter is located near the fuel shutoff valve within three inches. It is inline between the shutoff valve and the fuel pump (towards tank).

The fuel circuit is: Tank/Fuel Pump/Fuel Filter/Fuel Shut-off Valve/Carbs.

You first step is to check for fuel delivery to the filter. Make sure the bike is cool and no iginition sources are nearby. Disconnect the inlet line at the filter and turn key on and crank engine (to trigger fuel pump.) Do not try and start at this time (choke off).

If fuel is adequate to the filter, check the filter by blowing through it, it should easily pass air. Replace filter if questionable.

Next reconnect the fuel lines and remove float bowl drain plugs in the back of the carbs (2 per carb). If with key on and cranking fuel pours out of these ports then you probably have clogged fuel jets. If not then the float bowl needles / pipes could be plugged with varnish from dried fuel. You can try spraying carb cleaner into the fuel inlet to clear the varnish and then retest. Careful not to spray carb cleaner on yourself (wrap straw with a rag).

If you have good fuel flow to the carbs and bowls you probably have varnish plugging the jets. You should remove the carbs and clean them thoroughly.

Hope this helps,

Kal

Posted on May 18, 2009

Moto-Wiz
  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: where is oil filter located on 650 v-star yamaha

The oil filter is on the right side
under a cover with 3 screws in it.
Remove the covers and replace the filter
and the o-ring on the cover.
Watch which way it goes in
when removing it.

Posted on Aug 21, 2009

  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: looking for a wiring diagram for a 1999 Yamaha V

http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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Hi, Anonymous always check fuel flow first to isolate the problem area otherwise the usual suspects are:
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
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13. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
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There is a rubber line that comes from near the fuel shut-off valve, and terminates at a connector attached to one of the cylinders, located behind the air-filter. The end of the hose, where it attached to...


Hi, Rmarohn it may be a vacuum line that needs to be connected to the intake tract for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
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11. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
12. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
13. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
14. Damaged carburetor.
15. Incorrect valve timing.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
11. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
12. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
13. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
14. Damaged carburetor.
15. Incorrect valve timing.
16. Weak or broken valve springs.
17. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
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1 Answer

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts.
4. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
7. Water or dirt in the carburetor.*
8. Intake air leak.
9. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow.*
10. Enricher valve inoperative.*
11. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
12. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
13. Faulty ignition coil.
14. Valves sticking.
* Carbureted models.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1 Answer

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Hi, Amendina280 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
11. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
12. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
13. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
14. Damaged carburetor.
15. Incorrect valve timing.
16. Weak or broken valve springs.
17. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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1 Answer

2005 vstar yamaha won't start after replacing with new battery


Hi, Try1st and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched or kinked.
8. Carburetor float stuck.
9. Fuel injectors clogged.
10. Severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
11. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
12. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
13. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC,or BAS).
14. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
15. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
16. Faulty CDI box if applicable.
17. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
18. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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May 26, 2010 | 2005 Yamaha V Star Classic

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