How do I get the brake to open so I can reattach it to wheel?

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks.

Lots of videos

https://www.google.com/search?q=ironhorse+bomber+55+mountain+remove+front+wheel

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remove the rear wheels
unbolt the ends of the cable from the caliper
follow the cable up to the front of the vehicle, unbolting as you go.
inside the vehicle, unhook the cable end from the pedal, or handle brake.
feed new brake line up and secure the end to the pedal or handle brake
install new cable and reattach to the calipers
DONE

Make sure the rear brakes are adjusted up first. Often times it helps to let the system "gravity bleed" for a while. Open the bleeder screws and let gravity do the rest. Keep the master filled up and catch the run off at the wheel.Let it bleed until the fluid runs steady in a clear stream. This will remove most of the air in the system. Then you can do the "pump the pedal" thing.

Did you " bench bleed" the master cylinder before you put it on the truck? If not, do it now. Simply remove the brake lines from the master and replace them with short open lines to a bucket or even back into the master. Fill the resevoir and pump the cylinder until there are absolutely no bubbles coming out of the short lines. Then reattach the brake lines and start all over with the bleeding process. Hope this helps.

The wheel isn't straight. Web search "install front wheel". Surf the web for more advice like "how to..." shift, repair, adjust...

Run those questions almost verbatim through any search engine and you will find videos.

With out knowing the year and model of your motorcycle it would be hard to get you a picture. But you can look up a break down of your rear wheel and axle at Bikebandit.com in the OEM parts section.

Hello uncleel03,

There 3 item to look at:

1. Are the caliper mounting slide pins free and lubricated?
If not, the pins and bracket s need to be cleaned and lubricated.

2. Was a new hardware kit installed on a clean caliper mounting bracket and do the brake pad move freely in the bracket?
If not, the bracket needs to be cleaned and all rust removed from where the hardware kits attaches to the bracket.

3. Did the pistons in the calipers compress easily?
If not the caliper may need to be replaced. I say "may" because a bad brake hose can cause resistance when compressing the caliper so you will need to isolate the cause of the resistance.

Testing:

Safely lift and support the vehicle.

Have an assistant press and hold the brake peddle while you try to turn the wheel; as you are trying to turn the wheel have the assistant release the brake peddle, the brake should release immediately and the wheel should turn freely if not there is a problem with ether the caliper or brake hose.

To determine where the fault is you will need to remove the tire and have your assistant apply and release the brake. If the brake remains engaged open the bleeder if the brake releases the brake hose is the problem and needs to be replaced, if not the caliper needs to be replaced.

Repeat this procedure on the other side to determine it's integrity.

Of course you will need to bleed the brakes after these tests and after the new parts are installed before you can drive the vehicle.

I hope this help.

Regards,
netvan

Check the electric brake its most likely not disengaging from the motor case causing the motor to strain and overheat. You can unscrew the brake assembly from the rear of the motor and check to see if the brake pad is free and moveable If you can support the rear wheels off the ground and engage the throttle you should be able to hear and see the brake pad release. You can drive the scooter with the brake off the motor but do not disconnect the brake wiring. The scooter looks for that connection to work if it can't find the brake then it will flash and won't operate. now if you do hang the brake off the motor remember you do not have brakes and the scooter can roll backwards when going up ramps or on hills. You will have to replace the brake assembly and reattach it to the motor to have brakes

Hope this helps you

you need to bleed the brakes,starting from the wheel that's the fartherest away from your master cylinder. if you opened a bleeder valve when you replaced the front brakes,you've let air into the whole brake system.you will need 2 people to bleed the air out of the brakes.1to pump the pedal up for pressure and you to release the pressure of air from the bleeder valves on each wheel.start from the wheel that's the fartherest away from the brake master cylinder. passenger rear wheel.have someone pump the brake pedal up [pump3times]and hold pressure on the brake pedal,you open bleeder valve on the wheel to let the air out,or until the brake pedal goes to the floorboard[never let the person who is pumping the brake pedal to take the pressure off the brake pedal until you've tightened the bleeder valve closed.or else,you're waisting your time. you may have to bleed each wheel twice,or until you see clear brake fluid come out with no bubbles or spurting from each wheel. after you're done with passenger rear wheel,move to driverside rear wheel,then go to passenger front,then drivers front,which is last.when you replaced the brakes,you made a common mistake,you opened the brake lines,which let air into the brake system.it's a very common mistake so don't feel bad.just go back and bleed the brake system.after you do this,you will not make the same mistake again,i guarantee it. thank you for choosing fixya.com and if you need further assistance,please repost your question to fixya.com i'm usually here at least 12 hours a day to assist people for free.that's just me thanks!

The master cylinder should have been bled before installing it. The fittings and a small section of rubber hose should have came with it. If you have these fittings, you can still bleed it without removing the castercylinder. Install the fittings where brake lines come out and run the rubber hose into the "full" master cylinder and have someone pump the brakes slowly until all the air bubbles disappear. Reattach brake lines and the master cylinder should be all set. You will probably have to bleed brakes at each wheel