My hydraulic clutch line where it meets w tha connector under the fluid box in the motor compartment broke @ the fitting..... What do I do

Is it hydraulic.Or cable operated

Sounds like the "slave Cylinder is leaking. That is the device which the hydraulic line attaches to on the side of the tranny and acts as an actuator for the clutch mechanism

Check the fluid-reservoir for your clutch. If there is low/no fluid, top it up. Pump the pedal a few times first .. and check underneath the car for a fluid leak.

If the fluid reservoir is full, don't bother checking under the car for leaks.

Usually, the clutch master cylinder has a 'nipple' - a bleed point. Get someone to pump the clutch pedal for you a few times and keep it pressed down. Place a rag on the nipple and slightly undo the nut. Any air in the system should be forced out. You may have to open/close the nipple (nut) 2 or 3 times whilst somebody pumps and holds down the clutch pedal.

If there is no nipple/nut on the clutch master cylinder, follow the metal tube back up into the engine compartment and bleed the air out of it by putting a cloth around the topmost point where it connects to something else, and slightly undo the connection. The clutch pedal should be pressed down whilst you do this ..

If there's no air forced out of the hydraulic line or the clutch still does not build pressure, it may well be that the rubber ring inside clutch master cylinder is perished. You either have to fit a new rubber ring or replace the clutch master cylinder.

Replacing the clutch master cylinder is the best option. The bore of the master cylinder can wear - become 'ovalled' over time. Fitting a new rubber ring into a master cylinder that has a worn bore is only a short-term cure.

A perished rubber ring or worn clutch cylinder bore simply allows hydraulic fluid to be 'moved' without becoming pressurised

Ready? The instrument panel under the steering column is retained by three screws. Remove those screws and it will expose a junction box. DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE FROM THE BATTERY.
There are two large electrical connectors which plug into the top of the junction box. Disconnect them. Now disconnect the electrical connectors from the bottom of the box and remove the box, it is held in place with four nuts.
Get a few towels and place them under the clutch pedal. WARNING!: Brake fluid is harmfull to the skin and eyes. If you get it in your eyes, flush them with water. Rinse any fluid off your skin with water.Brakefluid will also damage the paint on your car.
Follow the brake pedal upward and you will see the master cylinder. It is bolted just in front of the clutch pedal. The master cylinder has two lines going to it. One line will have a short peice of hose and clamped to the master cylinder. Loosten the clamps and twist the hose on the pipe and master cylinder to break it loose. That way it will slide off the cylinder easily. Leave it in place! It will have brake fluid in it.
The other line is metal and has a fitting screwed into it. I beleive it is a 10mm wrench size but do not hold me to that. Make sure the wrench fits the line fitting very snugly because they are usually very tight and the wrench will slip and round the fitting. if this happens, use vice grip pliers to loosten it. Turn the fitting "counter clockwise" This will also have fluid in it so be prepared. There is a clip just at the end of the cylinder you must remove to get to the fitting. Just pull it off.
There is a plunger which is attached to the clutch pedal. a clip keeps the plunger from coming loose from the pedal.,Remove the clip and pull the plunger back away from the pedal.
Now, you have already disconnected the metal line and loostened the upper hose which feeds the cylinder. There are two bolts which retain the cylinder in place. It will be obvious where they are. remove them, grab hold of the upper line and twist the cylinder while you pull it off the line.
SPECIAL NOTE: THE PLACE WHERE YOU ADD THE FLUID, IF YOU CAN REMOVE THE FLUID, THERE WILL BE LESS OF A MESS.

Before you bolt the cylinder down or do anything else, slide the upper line onto the new cylinder. Start to thread the lower fitting to where you know you have it part way in. This will keep you from cross thresding the line(A very common mistake) Once it is started, you can put the rest together.
Put brake fluid back in after you have all the lines tight again and bleed the clutch hydraulics.

Tip on the bleeding.Start your bleeding from inside the car. By hand, with the line closed, slowly push the pedal to the floor.. Now while holding it dow, crack the line open for a moment. Close the line and S L O W L Y let the pedal return to the up position. Repeat the proceedure, be carefull because brake fluid will start coming out if the line when the air is out of the cylinder. Check the fluid level and top it off as necessary. After you have fluid coming out of the line at the master, you can bleed it at the slave cylinder. AGAIN: make sure you watch the fluid level!

Connect the battery after you have finished reassembling everything.

I hope I have been clear enough in my instructions and wish the best.

you have a hydraulic leak there are two lines that meet in the middle by the light cluster both lines should be changed you have to pull back headliner to see lines and leak one line runs under drivers side panel near side of seat and other line runs under passenger side panel near the side of the seat going to the back seats and to the trunk where hydraulic motor and fluid box is its a hard job and takes about six hours to do lines arer 214.00 fluid is 70.00 and about 800 in labor

Hydraulic Clutch System BLEEDING The clutch system can be bled using a pressure bleeder. Follow the instructions that come with the pressure bleeder for the proper pressure bleeding procedure. The maximum line pressure while pressure bleeding must not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa). NOTE: To bleed a clutch manually requires the assistance of a second person, a section of hose that is compatible with brake fluid (preferably clear) and fits the slave cylinder bleed screw snugly and a container to catch the fluid that is bled through the system. As brake hydraulic fluid easily absorbs moisture, always use fresh fluid when bleeding a hydraulic system.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. To bleed the system perform the following:
   1. Top off the hydraulic fluid reservoir using a fluid that meets the standards of the vehicle's hydraulic system.
   2. Open the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw and press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold the pedal down.
   3. Close the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw.
   4. Release the clutch pedal.
   5. Check the hydraulic fluid level and top off as necessary.
3. Repeat the above steps until the discharged fluid is clean and no air bubbles appear during the bleeding process.

in a car this 'new' prob. hydraulic. check clutch fluid reservoir- should be near brake fluid res.- will be smaller- if fluid is low, or empty- may be clutch master cylinder, or clutch 'slave' cylinder is leaking. check for leak under car, should smell like 'brake' fluid. if your brake master- both reservoirs are to the full line, and there's fluid under car, close to where clutch master is located, or near front of , or side, of tranny- then it's a clutch problem of some kind (as if you didn't already know this!!) relatively new vehicle (by my standards!), should have hydraulic clutch.
do you mean- when you depress the clutch pedal, it goes to the floor, and you can't shift into any gear??
should have asked this first! front wheel drive or rear? i'll guess front wheel drive. may have hyd. fluid leak in master or slave. (apologize for 'terms', but as 'male & female connectors', it's traditional, non-racist and non-sexist nomenclature!!) gotta' be careful, in the 21st century!! if there are, as i stated previously, 2 similar reservoirs, close to each other, then you prob. have hydraulic clutch. may need 'master' rebuilt, or replaced, or 'slave' replaced-it can be rebuilt, but prob not cost effective!
sorry to be 'long-winded/ texted', good luck!

Sounds like the clutch cable needs to be tightened up. They are adjustable. Usually where the clutch cable meets the side of the transmission.You'd want to tighten the nut to shorten the cable.

Or it could be a hydraulic clutch. Check the hydraulic fluid or the brake fluid. Some cars use the brake fluid for the clutch. Could of sprung a leak in the clutch line.

It's possible your clutch fork broke. Also, check to see if it's a hydraulic clutch. You could have a leak in the hydraulic system. Both would cause your clutch pedal to go to the floor.

hey man, i had a similar problem
you should look under at the clutch bracket to see if that broke
then check above the same bracket to see if the upper mount broke

idk
hope this helps