Hello i got my valves adjusted about 3 rides ago which is probably 6-8 hrs. I am having problems starting it. Do i need to get them adjusted again?

Could be just a carb adjustment. But being a new machine with 50 hrs you probably need the valves adjusted . New machines usually need a tweak on the settings, this is done by adjusting the valve hight and setting the timing. Ps. On all small engines use supreme (high test gas ) with no Ethel ( biofuel) added. The cheaper grades have 10 percent and down . Bio fuel attacks water and diminishes into a varnish more rapidly then expensive fuels. Since small engines usually sit longer then automotive engines the water attracting properties and faster break down of the fuel will kill an engine faster by gumming up the float bowl, and the carb. Also a good practice to add a fuel stabilizer like seafoam toward the end of the season or in periods of long storage..( 3 weeks). Hope this helps.

It's possible your hydraulic control manifold valve linkage needs adjusting, or some internals in your manifold shuttle valve came off.

Here are a few tips to look at, I would first check your inline fuel filter to make sure its not clogged up. See Page 26 of the Manual for additional help.

http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2010_NAen/HUSO2010_NAen_YTH2348_532441716.pdf

PROBLEM
Will not start

CAUSE CORRECTION
1. Out of fuel. 1. Fill fuel tank.
2. Engine not "CHOKED" properly. 2. See "TO START ENGINE" in Operation section.
3. Engine flooded. 3. Wait several minutes before attempting to start.
4. Bad spark plug. 4. Replace spark plug.
5. Dirty air filter. 5. Clean/replace air filter.
6. Dirty fuel filter. 6. Replace fuel filter.
7. Water in fuel. 7. Empty fuel tank and carburetor, refill tank with fresh gasoline and replace fuel filter.
8. Loose or damaged wiring. 8. Check all wiring.
9. Carburetor out of adjustment. 9. See "To Adjust Carburetor" in Service Adjustments
section.
10. Engine valves out of adjustment. 10. Contact an authorized service center/department.

The valve guide has moved out of place. The best solution is to replace the head.

try a new coil

Cummins M11

Intake valve clearance 0.010 inch
Exhaust valve clearance 0.024 inch

The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 and that is the order the valves should be adjusted started with first timing mark on main pulley adjust cylinder number 1 The valves and injector should be adjusted at the same time The crankshaft is then rotated 120 degrees to next timing mark and cylinder 5 is adjusted, the crank is rotated again 120 degrees to next timing mark and cylinder 3 is adjusted.then back to the first timing mark, cylinder 6 is adjusted, etc/

Adjusting nut on plunger should be adjusted to the point where you feel the plunger just reaches the bottom.of travel/bottoms out.

Do you know how to access the battery.. ? Probably under the seat etc.. Does it look like a brick with 2 spade connectors on top?

6 volt 7.5 Amp hrs.... These are the same batteries as used in most computer backup power supplies. http://www.apc-ups-battery.com/newsite/6P1270.htm

If it's more square shape then it's the type used in emergency lighting 6 volt 4 amp hrs
http://www.lightworld.com/viewdetails.asp?id=99910252&sub=843.
These and many more are available all over the internet and in specialized battery stores..
Shop around . The examples here are fair prices.

Do a compression check on the dry cylinder.It could possibly have a bent push rod on the intake valve. If the pushrods are ok, look to see if the valve is coming all the way out when turning engine.(Take both spark plug wires off before cranking engine when checking valves so it won't start)

If it didn't pop after the valve adjustment, try adjusting the valves again.
Popping out the exhaust usually indicates a burned exhaust valve. The valve doesn't seat all the way around and air/fuel mixture is getting into the exhaust header on the compression stroke and igniting from header heat. The reason this doesn't happen at higher rpms is the amount of time for the air/fuel to leak it really short.