I have changed the spark plug and coil and it looks as though there is no electric getting to the spark plug. the bike doesnt run. i was wondering if anyone could help0

Color of spark is a kinda age-old test, but it doesnt necessarily mean anything. Some cars you will usually see orange during a cranking spark test because the resistance of the system and the coil windings reduces voltage below the "blue" spark level until voltage gets over 14v, which doesnt happen until the engine is running.

If the car runs at idle and rev, it is unlikely its the pickup coil. The pickup is the RPM sensor, pretty much it either works OK or works terribly/not at all (though sometimes they are funny, its rare). If it runs fine for awhile, then after 30 minutes it starts to cut out or stall, and when it cools it runs again, THAT is pickup coil type of failure, but not yellow spark. Pickup doesnt make spark or affect its quality in any way. It simply says WHEN to make spark. After it signals WHEN, the module and coil and source voltage determine how much is made.

If you still think you have low spark issues, id test it with a test plug. Its an adjustable or fixed gap spark plug you can buy at a parts house. You need minimum 25kv consistent spark from the coil.(30 is better). What that means is you hook a work from the cap to the spark tester, and with the engine running it will fire regular sparks and not skip any. If it does...spark is not your problem. Period. If it doesnt, then you start checking wires, resistance, voltage, etc.

I would first check the front cylinder spark plug is showing the correct color. When it next shuts down remove the plug and see if you have a spark. Spark or no spark I would replace first the spark plug then if the problem still occurs change the plug cap. Finally if it still shuts down change the HT cable and or the coil and HT cable. It is possible that the problem is further back in the ignition system and some component is breaking down when it or the surrounding area gets hot. If it is not the plug/cap/HT lead or coil at fault then I would get an electrician to look at the bikes electrical circuit and fault find it. This is going to be costly though. Good luck. Just had another thought could possibly be the ignition switch. Try spraying some lube into the switch barrel do not use WD40 as it is water based and while it does shift water, stop squeaks, etc etc. It does allow corrosion to reform.

Have you checked the coils

You might try looking at your transistor it could be the cause of your problems. Even though it is a carb bike it will still have an transistor pack or similar that controls your spark. It is possible that failed. Try one from a bike that you know is working if that makes a difference that is your problem.
Although I'd also look for broken wires and poor contacts.
If your good with a multimeter and you know the specs of your coils and transistor than you can try and test them.

There are two coils on the bike. The pickup coil inside the flywheel and the high tension coil with the spark plug wire attached. If you can see arcing at the mount bracket where the high tension coil mounts to the frame, either the coil is bad or the plug wire is bad. Some coils allow replacement of the plug wire, some don't. Chances are you will need a new coil.

Try plugs and plug wires, changing cap, rotor & coil only amplified your problem. Leads me to believe you have bad plug wires.

is there power and pulse to coil 2&3 Cyl? rev counters run of the coil pulse.Number 2&3 cylinders are likely to be fowled now so replace plugs and retry (a fowled spark plug will never fire) it will only track

Have you changed the spark plugs? That is what I'd do first. May be a simple as a fouled or otherwise bad plug.

I am unsure if your bike uses a coil or CID pack for the spark but whichever it has is most likely the cause. also if you have a kill switch then I would disconnect the wiring to make sure the switch is not grounding out the spark.