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Need to know the gap on the cams for a o4 ltz400

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How to set the points on a 1973 yamaha lt2 100

I do not know what the dwell or correct gap would;d be to get the correct dwell so I cannot help that way. You will need to google it or get the gap and/or dwell from a Yamaha or other such service center. To change point gap normally there is a screw which will loosen and allow the points to be moved (one side of the point assembly) so that with the cam that moves the point assembly apart on the middle of the high point the points can be set with the required gap between the open points to give the required dwell for coil primary saturation.,

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.006in on the Intake and .008in for theExhaust + or - .002in

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Need to know gap settings under the rockers for 302 windsor

if it is hydraulic cam then the lifter will not need to be set.

the local dealer will tell you solid lifer or overhead cam per the number on the cam [s] - I would pull the engine number if factory and the cam numbers - -and ask the local ford dealer - also look up local ford racing garage - and they will give you that info. There are many settings - almost one for every car on some after market cams and you don't say who makes the cam - if it is solid of hydraulic. If you're a total novice I would stop now and ask a pro to put the cam in. Just my take on it.

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2 Answers

Need to find the timing marks

I am assoming that you are talking about the marks on the points plate.
Before you put the points and point plate on, check the spark advancer for proper function. Twist the point cam and it should snap back to the correct original location.
If not MARK the relationship between the point cam and the advancer base... HINT.. you can put it together backwards and the bike will NEVER run!

The points should mount up on the plate with no problems, other than check carefully where the point wire goes onto the insulated bolt and don't let the terminal end get grounded out on the point base/plate. Point plate and points should install so the points are at about 10-11 o'clock location when the plate is secured to the cylinder head. The point wire enters the point base plate at the far right and runs underneath the point cam to connect with the contact breaker on the left side.

When installing new points, be sure to check and clean the point faces of any grease or oil that is a preservative. Put a drop of oil on the felt and a light coat of point grease (if you can find it anymore at auto parts stores) on the point cam. Because the point rubbing block is new, the little high spots will wear down initially in the first couple of hours of operation, so you will probably have to come back and recheck the gap and timing after some run-in time. The gap needs to be about .014-.016" checked at the highest point of the point cam. Turn the engine over with a wrench and watch the points open and close, then observe where they are open the widest and check the gap with a flat feeler gauge. If you set them about .016", then they will close down to around .014" or so after they have seated in. This is how it is done in a perfect world of new, unworn parts.

The inherent difficulty here lies within Honda's choice to cutaway the cam bearings to facilitate camshaft installation. This area tends to wear rapidly, causing the camshaft (and point cam) to wobble around during rotation, even when the camchain tensioner is fairly snug. If you grab the end of the point cam or camshaft with your fingers, try to move it from side to side/up and down. ANY movement will translate to a change in the point gap, which makes a change in the ignition timing. If it is really loose, the timing will be difficult to set and the running timing will be erratic. The only way to fix it is to put on a new head and cam and/or POWROLL may still be able to convert the head/cam to a needle bearing design... all a lot of work and expense for a 30 year old tiddler bike.

The timing, once the gap is set properly, is adjusted by moving the point plate back and forth until the points JUST BARELY open when the F flywheel mark is aligned with the pointer mark on the case. You can check this with a 6v test light or a ohmmeter or audible test unit. Recheck the point gap when you move the plate, as it tends to change the gap. Go back and forth until you have both the proper gap and the correct point opening moment set.
This bike MUST have a fresh 6-volt battery installed to run. It is NOT a magneto ignition.
Hope this helps out. Let us know how it goes.

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1 Answer

More top end speed wanted for suzuki ltz400 year

Either put a 4 to 8 tooth smaller rear sprocket on the bike or put a 1 to 2 tooth larger front sprocket on it. That will increase the top end speed. If you want to add quick speed and honest power to the bike the thing to do is to get a mild race cam for the engine. With the cam you can easily envision performance equaling a 500 to 550 cc bike.

Contact Web Cam Racing (1-951-369-5144) in California and they can fix you up. Go to

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1 Answer

Need to know the plug gap on a 78 ironhead

Is this a Harley question? They have you up for a backup tape data unit.
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1 Answer

Changing Spark Plugs

2.0L SOHC (single overhead cam) AGSF34EE plugs gap 0.054
2.0L DOHC (dual overhead cam) AZFS32FE plugs gap 0.050

The plug numbers are the motordraft numbers

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