Question about 2003 Suzuki VZ 800 Marauder

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2001 marauder I cleaned the carbs & fuel tank. It still takes along time to warm up on choke. when it warmed up it still has a hesitation at half throttle. Plus when testriding & u twist the throttle u feel the clutch lever flex?

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Vz800 marauder hesitates when I Throttle

Posted on Jun 28, 2011

  • davidcandell
    davidcandell May 23, 2012

    turn the idle speed up its under the seat easy to access near the battery. hust take the seat off and turn it up and it wont hesitate

  • Greg Tigan Mar 02, 2013

    I had the same problem. After buying the bike from a guy who turned the idle down to make the bike sound more "marketable" (i.e like a Harley) the engine would cut out going into turns when I'd roll out of the throttle. Dealer put the idle and mixture back to spec. Idles a little high for my liking but it runs well.

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Motor will start but I have to manually hold the choke open until it warms up otherwise choke closes on its own


Yes this is the semi automated startup process. If the fuel is bad(old) or the carburetor has residue restricting the fuel passages the engine will run lean requiring some enrichment.(choke) I suspect that the engine may be hunting when warm. Use carburetor cleaner along with a fuel stabilizer.

Check/replace the fuel filter.

Empty fuel tank and purchase some no ethanol from home supply running the engine will assist in cleaning the passages. When engine is running close the choke a fuel times to give the engine a poor mans clean out, Avoid disassemble of the carb with out having technical compliance.(these are delicate and susceptible to contamination).

Never leave fuel in the engine when in storage. Ethanol gums up the fuel passages.

Hope this helps?

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I have a 1983 cb550sc honda that has a starting problem. when it's cold it only runs on no.1 cyl and all other exh pipes are cold. i have checked all systems and can't find the problem. compression is...


I certainly wouldn't rule out a fuel restriction, either in tank where fuel drains to line, or line(s) to carburetors. When cold, more fuel required, plus once engine starts to run, vacuum from carbs may overcome restriction, as well as less fuel required. My guess is that heavy acceleration is a problem even when warm as well. Doesn't take long to check in tank to see if filter/screen in tank is plugged at all, as well as remove fuel line for carbs and use compressed air (carefully) to clean out line(s) as well as blow back into tank to dislodge debris at screen in tank, but if there is debris, remove tank and flush good. Any in-line filters should be replaced as well.

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1986 v65 Mag - will start with full choke only but will die as soon as you back the choke off or crack the throttle. Has fuel pressure and is warmed up. Last year it did the same thing but once it warmed...


You need to disassemble and properly clean the slow circuit/slow jets of your carburetors. Unfortunately, Your carb rack is very delicate. There are some brittle and expensive($40 each) crossover pipes that may crack or leak if the rack is removed for cleaning. I would try lowering my fuel level to just the lower tank and adding half of a cup of "Chevron Techron" to the gas (basically you want one gallon of gas with a shock treatment). Unplug the fuel line from the fuel pump and pour some Techron directly into the carbs. Now start the bike and run it long enough to make sure the treated fuel is in all the carbs. Turn off the bike and let it sit overnight. In the morning drain the carbs, restart the bike , and idle or slow drive till the carbs idle again( usually 5 to 15 minutes). If bike is starting to idle, drive to the gas station , fill the tank and drive the treatment through. With any luck this will solve your problem without an expensive disassembly/cleaning. Use "Chevron Techron", not Chevron fuel treatment with Techron, Techron is more concentrated.

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u carb choke might be worn its sounds like its choking its self

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Choke is working only has 5000km on bike and once bike warms up it loads up wih fuel and then dies out all ports are clean i tore the carb a part 3 times what should the fuel|air screw be set at.it must be...


It seems the carb/s flooding with fuel and thus it dies, try to reset the float pin and get the correct level of the fuel in the float chamber.
Standard procedure for air-mixture screw setting is u take the screw right in slowly taking care not to over tighten it as it may damage the tip of the screw.
Warm up your bike's engine and thn slowly turn anti clockwise the air-mixture screw to about 2 & a half turns and observe the engine's idling.
Before you attempt this setting(air-mixture) its better too, to replace the spark plug and set the gap to the specs of your bike's engine and check and adjust accordingly the valve clearance.
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My Sears riding mower chokes itself out after warmed up,


Careful with the high octane.. That can burn a hole in the piston..

It might be fludding.. At the bottom of the carb should be a bowl.. One bolt at the bottom.. Take it off and clean it.. Spray some carb cleaner up in there where the float is..

If that dont do it --

Maybe the float is bad & taking in fluid..

If it has sat for long piriods of time - the carb might need to be cleaned & rebuilt..

When gass sits in there for a long time it shalacks and wont work correctly..

Pop off the carb & take to your local small eng shop. Shouldnt cost to much..

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