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Re: Single click when I press start button.
You need an auto-electrician to do it for you, they take a few seconds and rarely charge. Also, get your self a manual, I can't help but if you Google it, you should get plenty for sale as well as an odd freebie.
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The fuel solinoid is on the bottom of the carb with a single wire comeing from it, to test remove the assembly, earth the body against the engine, now switch the ignition on, you should hear a click and the centre pin in the solinoid will retract into the solinoid body, if it does not there is either an issue with the power wire to it ( should be 12volts ) or the solinoid is bad.
It sounds like a bad relay or solenoid on the starter. Look on the end of the starter and you'll see a single small wire plugged onto the end of the starter. Pull this wire off and connect a test light or volt meter to the wire. Turn the ignition switch on and press the button. The test light should light up or a meter should show battery voltage every time you press the button. Press the button a dozen or so times. If the light does NOT light up or no voltage, replace the relay that is clicking when you press the button. If the test light DOES light up or you do see voltage, it's the solenoid on the starter. If you don't have a test light or meter, simply replace the relay that you feel clicking and try that. I hate to tell people to "parts swap" as that's not being a mechanic but I'm pretty sure that you just want to get the bike back going as quickly as possible. It's up to you if you want to gamble and simply replace the relay.
do you at least hear a clicking or clunking sound (possibly only a single click) when you turn the key to the start position - if there's not even that it's either a bad fuse or relay, if there's only a faint click (might not hear if hood is closed) it might be the solinoid on the starter; the louder clicking/clunk sound is likely the solinoid and just the battery may not be charged/holding a charge (iirc 5 years is the average life of most car batteries)
Remove and clean the battery terminals and make sure the ground wire to the block is clean and secure.. Your starter draws more amperage than any other single item in the vehicle. When starter is engaged it will break the connection and fail to operate. Though the lights come on it does not tell you much about the battery capacity. Make sure it has been fully charged and load tested or any testing you do will be invalid. Also check the starter relay in the power distribution center and that there is 12v going to the small trigger wire on the starter when the key is turned to the start position. If not, the starter solenoid may have failed (best to replace the entire starter as often by the time the solenoid fails, the brushes in the starter motor are already pretty much worn out.
Uhh, is the battery good? Take it out and take it to an auto parts store. Ask them to test it for you. Usually, there's no charge for this. Make sure all battery connections are clean and tight. If the battery is good, the next step is the starter relay. When you push the handlebar button, you should hear a faint click behind the oil tank. The starter relay cost about $15 and simply plugs into a connector. On most models it's held onto the backside of the oil tank by a single screw. If you've got at test light, put the probe into the socket of the starter where the single small green wire plugs in. When you press the start button the light should light up. If not, either the relay is bad or the push button on the handlebar control. If you're getting voltage to the starter at the green wire, bad starter.