The clutch will not bleed the fluid will not leave
On a 1992 suzuki gsx1100 f i rebuilt the master cylinder the clutch will not bleed the fluid will not leave the reservior i tried squeezing the unit down by the sprocket and stil no luck should i squeeze the unit closed or should i leave it half way in
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Re: the clutch will not bleed the fluid will not leave
Get yourself a manual, although not your exact model, there are plenty to choose from: http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp ' When bleeding you attach a piece of plastic hose to the bleeder valve and seal it (I use a piece of copper or brass wire). You place this in a jar with some brake fluid, enough to cover the bottom of the hose. You then release the valve, enough to allow an even flow and pump like crazy on the clutch, topping up the reseviour as you go, until it runs clear, no bibbles, into the glass jar. You then lock of the bleeder valve, making sure you use a correct spanner so as not to damage it. JOB DONE. When I did it on a car, I bled the master cylinder first to get the fluid down, but this should not be necessary, it should draw straight down to the lower part.
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Had this problem about a month ago when I replaced my clutch and brake pipes.
Ensure bike is in upright position and not on side stand. Cover your grips and tank due to fluid spillage.
Use slow motions and pump 10 times depressing the clutch and releasing it fully, before opening nipple. Use only dot 4 or 5 brake fluid. Try by first opening the bleeding nipple, depress clutch, close nipple, release clutch. Do this several times prior to standard bleeding procedure. In my case and I don't know if this was random, but the clutch master's seals collapsed when I removed the pressure in the pipe whilst replacing the clutch and brake pipes. Factory specs say you should replace the brake and clutch pipes every 2 years, so I used braided hoses, they last almost a lifetime in my opinion. It still stays a tedious job bleeding the clutch, so pack a can of patience. In my case I eventually got it right in a unconventional manner. I filled a bleeding bottle(small plastic coke bottle would work fine)with new fluid. I then opened the bleeding nipple (reservoir should be empty when doing this) and gently squeezed fluid through the nipple until it reached the reservoir. This is NOT a recommended procedure as you may damage your master's seal, but I was desperate. After reservoir is full, bleed clutch using standard operating procedure and with a bit of luck you will be having clutch. Hope this helps!
Your clutch fluid reservoir may need brake fluid-yes, it uses brake fluid as a hydraulic fluid. Check reservoir on the firewall. It will sit beside the brake master cylinder. The reservoir sits atop the clutch master cylinder. If it was dry, the clutch may need bleeding down at the slave cylinder on the transmission housing-where the clutch fork sticks out of the transaxle.. Open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder, and have someone slowly press clutch down. Keep bleeding until a steady stream of fluid comes out when clutch is pressed. Then close bleed valve, check clutch operation-pedal should have some pressure on it now.
The clutch needs to be bled. Add brake fluid to the clutch master cylinder on the handlebar by removing the top cap and diaphragm. Put the cap, etc back in place and tighten the mount screws a bit. Tighten the hose fittings at both ends. Where the hose ends at the transmission is a bleeder bolt. Pump the clutch handle three or four times and hold it in. Now loosen the bleeder bolt and fluid and air will squirt out of the bleeder. Close the bleeder bolt and then release the clutch handle. Repeat this process until only fluid comes from the bleeder. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
Hello buiskit: My name is Roger and I will help you. If the fluid runs down the firewall or leaks down on the floor board or on your foot. The problem should be the clutch master cylinder. However should the fluid leak at the bell housing area.Then the problem is the slave cylinder. To replace the slave cylinder you will need to pull the transmission in order to replace the slave cylinder. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger
Any evidence of leaking frorm the clutch lever area or lines down to the clutch? Remove the cover on the clutch reservoir and fill. squeeze handle slowly to see if there is bubbles or fluid spray. Will most likely have to bleed the clutch. Bleed is on left side lower end of the clutch hose. Squeeze clutch lever several times and open the bleed. Close bleed and do again. When you get good solid flow of fluid, should have a good clutch. Look for leaks.
This is what I would do. Fill the master with brake fluid. Make sure the slave cylinder bleeder is closed. Have someone pump the clutch pedal fully down and while allowing it to come fully up about 20 times and then hold down. Now with the clutch held down ........open the bleeder and hopefully some air will come out. Repeat until fluid appears with out air. The clutch master cylinder piston must be allowed to come fully back in it's cylinder to take in a new load of brake fluid with every pump and in normal operation. Another way to bleed it......is to vacuum the fluid through the system from the master cylinder .......connecting to the slave cylinder bleeder valve.
You may have a blocked clutch hose or a restricted outlet/leaking piston valve in the master cylinder. Remove the hose entirely and blow through it with compressed air. Good air flow means good hose. Now try the master cylinder (clutch lever), you should get a good flow of fluid with one press. If it barely releases anything, tear the cylinder down and check the outlet area and piston valving. It may need a rebuild kit or just replace the cylinder. Once you get the cylinder working, put the hose back and new fluid in the cylinder. work the lever a number of times, then bleed the system.
Fill your res. at the lever, leave the cover off. Don't squeeze the lever. Open the bleed valve down on the clutch till fluid runs out. Tighten it a little and add some fluid as it drains out. Close the bleed valve, refill the res. Barely reopen the bleed valve and let some more fluid seep out. Close the bleed valve and refill the res. Put the cap on, Go.