Question about 1993 Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide

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How do i adjust a S&S super B carb, cold start mostly

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The Super B carb is not as forgiving of improper jetting as the Super E model carb due to the lack of an accelerator pump. The only adjustment you have on the carb is the idle mixture screw and idle stop screw. The idle stop screw simply adjusts the idle speed of the engine. The idle mixture screw should be adjusted somewhere between 3/4 and 1 1/4 turn out from the bottom. If it is out of this range, the carb is not jetted correctly.

Through experience over the years I've found that the Super B used on a Big Twin Harley should be jetted 29.5 on the slow jet with a 70 or 72 on the main jet. If used on an Ironhead Sportster, slow jet of 26 with either a 66 or 68 main jet.

The way to tune the carb slow speed circuit is to allow the engine to warm up and adjust the idle mixture screw one turn off the bottom. Then try to rev the engine. If the engine does not rev cleanly, try coming out a half turn on the idle mixture. If it seems to help, continue until it revs cleanly. If this is the case, you slow jetting is too lean, install a richer jet and repeat the above procedure. Once you get it tuned to where the engine revs cleanly with the idle mixture screw at one turn out, you low speed jetting is correct.

The high speed jetting is not quite as simple to set as this has to be done on the road. I usually find a long uphill run to test the jetting to keep top speeds reasonable. At about 55-60 miles per hour, roll the throttle on in high gear. Feel the way the engine pulls. If it pulls good, back off on the throttle about 1/8th turn. If it pulls better, it's just slightly lean. If when you roll the throttle on, the engine starts spitting back through the carb and doesn't run well, you are way lean. Either way move upwards on your jet size one step at the time and retest.

If the bike seems sluggish and blows black smoke when you do the "roll-on", you're too rich. Install leaner jet one step at a time.

Now, most people confuse a "mid range stumble" with a carb problem. All efforts to tune this stumble out done on the carb are futile. The problem is in the exhaust system. Most bikes do not like open drag pipes for street use. They will exhibit this mid range stumble. The remedy is to put a bolt with three nuts on it on the inside of the pipe or any other means to create just a bit of backpressure on the exhaust. This usually cures the problem or at least makes it easier to live with.

Full tuning procedures can be downloaded on the S & S site. Go to "Technical" page, then "Installation instructions" to download the full paperwork that came with your Super B.

I hope this helps and Good Luck.

Posted on Feb 04, 2010

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  • wd4ity
    wd4ity May 19, 2010

    I assume this answer is for hsportyd74. Your best exhaust system is going to be a set of free flowing mufflered exhaust pipes. I like the Cycle Shack exhaust. They're good quality and reasonably priced. I ride a '94 Dyna Wide Glide with factory pipes and Screamin' Eagle mufflers. Very good setup. I get great power with 45-50 mpg. The main objective is free flow with a bit of backpressure. If sound is an issue for you, the bolts will not effect the sound of your drags, mufflers will quieten things down a bit.



    The old Ironhead sportys need a little backpressure to run correctly and avoid the "flat spot" that usually manifests itself at about 50-60 mph depending on the bikes gearing. I am familiar with the Big City Thunder Baffles but quarter inch bolts do the same job much cheaper. Initially, some people don't like the looks of them as they are something shiney inside the pipe. But, after a few miles, they're black just like the rest of the pipe and can't be seen. If you determine that you need more backpressure, simply install 5/16" bolts in place of the 1/4" ones. At a couple of bucks, you can't go wrong.

  • coilspring20
    coilspring20 Jan 21, 2011

    The answer given here is an excelent one and I have gone through everything that was described here with my S

  • coilspring20
    coilspring20 Jan 22, 2011

    One more thing I should comment on, is that by making the main air beed jet oriface, adjustable on the S

  • wd4ity
    wd4ity Jan 22, 2011

    Coilspring 20: For some reason your entire post is not coming through. I get something about the air bleed oriface and adjustable on the S, and this is where it stops. I've noticed this before on this forum. It seems like certain characters perform functions here than they usually don't on other sites. Do not use the upper case number keys, such as shift 7 to the and mark. Sometimes it cuts off your posting. Try it again and say S and S carb.

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Another 100 percent right answer, guru, on my 79 ironhead i run cut off drag pipes and i purchased big city thunder baffles witch all they are is a baffle design that you install 6 inches into the end of the drag pipe it,s your tipical lolipop design only upside down, and wow what a differance, my question is what exhaust would you sugest running on my bike, iv,e read most of your post,s and you the man, honestly. thanx

Posted on May 19, 2010

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Well, here I thought I was gonna come on like a pro and give you the best answer. Looks like wd4ity already beat me to it. The best I can add, is that S&S link he told you about. Here it is and good luck to you. http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/instruction-sheets/?fuel-systems
Instruction Sheets for Performance Parts

Posted on Oct 25, 2014

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It sounds like your choke is not being used. If you are setting the choke, the carb is venting air somewhere. Take the cover off the motor and look at what is happening to the choke plate when you set the choke.

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