Question about 2004 Yamaha YZ 450 F

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I was losing my pedal pressure do to low fluid, I added some dot 3, it was all I had on hand, the bike takes dot 4, it solved the problem until a few weeks later, now it wont hold pressure after it gets hot from heavy riding. The local shop said to drain the old fluid and put in the proper dot 4. I did that, but made the crucial error of cracking the lines open to get all the fluid out, now it doesnt seem to be getting any fluid back to the caliper. I tried everything.I really hate to take it into the shop. I thought it needed to be bleed but that is ineffective as well.

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I don' t think by saying "cracking the lines open to get all the fluid out" he meant he literally broke the line. You probably have a bad cup in the master cylinder and it needs a piston rebuild kit. This is most likely the case if there has been no external leakage at all. Old gelled up fluid can cause this so flushing and bleeding could possibly help. Dot 3 and 4 are interchangeable they just have different test standards for temperature, etc. You definitely got a load of air in the system and it can be very difficult to get out. Forget the rear bleed nipple on the caliper for now. It is useless and only for final bleeding after you have pressure built up. Press the caliper piston all the way in while watching the reservoir on the master cylinder(don't let it overflow). Then do normal bleeding, pump and hold, starting at the brake line banjo bolt. Break it loose and re-tighten it just like it was a bleed nipple. Make sure to never let the reservoir level get to the bottom. Work your way to the brakeline banjo bolt on the caliper, pump and bleed. Final bleed at the nipple. If bleeding doesn't last - rebuild the master.

Posted on Feb 16, 2010

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Did you replace the cracked line, otherwise you're leaking in the caliper, or pedal diaphram has gone bad.

Posted on Feb 03, 2010


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How to bleed clutch 2007 compass


1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.

4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.

5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.

6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.

7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.

8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.

9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.


1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.

2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).

4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.

5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.

NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.

6. Turn on the service filling machine.

7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).

8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.

9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.

10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.

11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.

12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.

13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.

14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.

15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.

Oct 15, 2013 | 2007 Jeep Compass Limited

2 Answers


If you don't have a leak somewhere, you have air in the system. When "pump up" the brakes, you use the brake fluid to compress the air in the system and the pedal feels good for a while. When the compressed air finally forces the brake fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir, the air is no longer compressed and the pedal feels soft. You need to bleed the brakes. Follow these instruction in exactly this manner. First, check the master cylinder reservoir to make sure it's full. Put the cover back on the reservoir so the brake fluid does not splash out. Depress and hold the rear brake pedal. Open the brake bleeder valve on the rear brake caliper and allow the air and fluid to flow out. Close the bleeder valve. Release the rear brake pedal and check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservior. Repeat as many times as necessary until the brake pedal is firm. Do not allow the reservoir to run dry during this process. By putting a short piece of clear plastic tubing on the brake bleeder valve you can direct the expelled fluid into a catch container and reduce the mess. Do not allow brake fluid to get on the painted surfaces of the bike and use only the type of brake fluid that is specified on top of the master cylinder reservoir or in the owner's manual. On your bike that would be DOT 5. Do not mix with any other type of fluid.

Aug 05, 2011 | Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Deluxe...

2 Answers

How to adjust 98 ford explorer clutch play?

the clutch has no adjustment. the clutch is a hydraulic clutch,if you have a low clutch release then you may want to check the fluid in the reservoir on the left side of the engine compartment near the brake master cylinder. the clutch uses DOT 3 brake fluid.

Aug 01, 2011 | Ford Explorer Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2004 Harley FXDLI , rear brake pedal goes down to far before it engages . Is it low on brake fluid ? it says on cap to use dot 5 , but will any dot 5 do , or does it use a specific kind ?

Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. It makes no difference what brand the brake fluid is as long as it is DOT 5. DO NOT MIX DOT 4 OR DOT 3 FLUID WITH DOT 5. They are incompatible and will ruin your brake system. If your master cylinder is not empty and your brake pedal is low, you need to bleed the brake. This is not a difficult procedure but it MUST be done in an EXACT manner. To bleed the brake, DEPRESS AND HOLD the brake pedal down. Loosen the brake bleeder in the rear brake caliper and allow brake fluid and air to come out of the caliper. If you can put a small piece of clear tubing on the bleeder valve it reduces the mess. Once the flow stops, close the bleeder valve. Then release the brake pedal and check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. Do not release the brake pedal with the bleeder valve open or allow the reservoir to run dry. Repeat the proceedure until the pedal is at full height and firm. If this does not solve the problem, there is an adjustment on the master cylinder pushrod. Do not adjust the push rod out too far as doing so will not allow your brakes to release once applied. They'll get tighter and tighter until the bike will no longer move.

Good Luck

Jul 03, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider...

1 Answer

Range rover 1996 is that the clutch pedal is down and dont come up self that dont have pressure in how to get it back

Hi Jarmo,
Open the hood and check the fluid level in the reservoir for the clutch. Its a good idea to check the brakes at the same time. Fill with DOT 4 brake fluid up to the marks. Once that's been done get inside and lift the clutch pedal with your hand and then push it down with your foot, repeat that operation until you feel pressure, then take a look at the pipe coming from the clutch master cylinder and follow it down to the clutch slave cylinder. To be on the safe side get two friends to assist you. One will need to go under the vehicle and locate the bleed nipple at the rear of the cylinder, that person will need to carry a ten mil ring wrench. The other should be ready with the brake fluid to top up when ever the level drops. You then sit in the vehicle and when you press the pedal down, yell open, close. When the nipple is closed lift the pedal with your hand because the pedal will have gone soft again. continue until all air is removed from the system and you'll feel pressure has recharged the pedal action again. Ask your unlucky friend underneath to observe if the cylinder is damp or wet. If it is there will be a leakage from the slave cylinder. If not the problem will most likely be with the master cylinder, in which case the system may not charge. These leakages will have to be attended to before the vehicle is reliable again.
Regards Johngee10

Mar 06, 2011 | 1996 Land Rover Range Rover

2 Answers

What type of brake fluid goes in a 2000 chevrolet silverado

The filler cap and manual both specify DOT 3--"Delco Supreme 11" or equivalent.
Lets look at what the DOT ratings mean. The table below shows the MINIMUM wet and dry boiling points for DOT 2, 3, 4, and 5 brake fluid in degrees fahrenheit.
Dry Boiling point 374 401 446 500
Wet boiling point 284 311 356

The DOT 2 spec is for drum brakes and is obsolete. If you have any DOT 2 in your garage, throw it away!
DOT 5 is for silicone brake fluid. Silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) should be avoided because it is not compatible with regular brake fluid, it is hard to pour without introducing bubbles and thus results in soft pedal feel, and moisture still gets into your system and will pool in low areas like your calipers and encourage rapid corrosion. STAY AWAY!
That leaves DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. These fluids are compatible with each other and may be interchanged or mixed with no ill effects.
I haven't had any problems at that time adding Prestone DOT 4 to the original GM fluid.
Changing BRAKE FLUID is a MUST. Most dealers recomend at 60K scheduled maintenance service.
The industry standard is every 3 to 4 years for DOT 3 and every 2 years for DOT 4 under normal driving conditions.

Nov 08, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

2 Answers

My clutch pedal is stuck to the floor??

It is most likely a hydraulic clutch, and it is most likely leaking at the clutch slave cylinder. Check the clutch master cylinder for fluid, it should be a small master cylinder looking thing with a fill cap next to the brake master cylinder and booster unit. If it is empty fill it with the same dot 3 brake fluid that you use for your brake master cylinder, and make sure that you are pouring the fluid into the clutch master cylinder reservoir and not the rubber seal that should be under the fill cap. After filling the clutch master cylinder up with fluid, then try and pump up the clutch pedal. It might take a while to pump up hydraulic pressure, and you might also have to work the pedal a few times by hand at first.

Also, you might have to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder if it will not build up enough pressure to release the clutch.

Apr 28, 2010 | 1988 Mazda RX-7

1 Answer


  1. Check the fluid in the reservoir, it sits up on the firewall on the driver side.
  2. If there is fluid in there you may have what is called a collapsed pressure plate.
The clutch system is just like the brakes and uses hydraulic pressure. If either the slave or mater goes bad there is nothing to put pressure to return the piston attached to your pedal. If you are low on fluid add regular dot 3 or 4 brake fluid and pump the pedal by hand. If the slave or master is leaking you will see it come out. If it is the pressure plate the trans will have to come out to replace the clutch assembly.
Hope this helps.

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3 Answers

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Check the rear wheel cylinders if you have drum brakes on the rear. Check the master cylinder cap to be sure it's on right & snug. Use D.O.T. 3 fluid,not synthetic. If you're losing fluid there's a reason. Check the front brake pads & slides for the calipers,could be frozen with rust & eating up the pads. Fluid would seem low if the pads are shot.

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1 Answer


Take the master cylinder off the bike and try to "bench bleed" it in a vise.Fill with fluid and put you finger over the outlet,push plger in with a screw driver.If no or very little pressure replace the master cylinder.
If it does pressure up install and bleed system one section at a time.When bleeding a dry system DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR RUN LOW or you will get air in and be there forevere bleeding.

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