Question about 2003 Buell Lightning XB9S

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Adjusting front fork rebound damping screw

Hi. I have a 2003 Buell XB9S Lightening, that I just purchased. I recently set the suspension based on the weight range recommendations in the owners manual. Everything went fine except the front fork rebound damping screws seem to be different lengths. Following the manual, I turned the adjustment screw all the way to maximum, then turned back the specified number of turns. However, the screw on the right side of the fork goes down noticeably further than the left side before hitting the stop. So when I back them out an equal number of turns they do not appear even. The rest of the damping screws appear to hit the stop at about the same point as the left fork. The right fork rebound screw appears to be the odd one. My question: should I make the adjustment based on number of turns from maximum (as the manual says), or should I adjust the two screws so they are visually even, given the right screw maximum starts further into the screw casing? Since setting according to the manual I notice my bike seems to hang onto right turns just a little longer than left turns. It is very subtle, so I am not sure it is really happening or if I am just imagining it.
Thank you!

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  • 39 Answers

It sounds like your forks need servicing by a professional. Your instincts were right, they should be about equal length, so something BAD has happened to one of the forks. I would recommend going to a sport bike speed shop that specializes in suspension work to have this fixed since the guys at HD barely know how to change the spark plugs on a Buell in most cases.

A good shop can not only repair the damage, but help you to set the suspension exactly right for you (the Buell manual is just a ballpark setting) by checking the sag in the suspension, and they can even upgrrade your forks and shocks for you.

Arguably the best in the business is Max at traxxion dynamics. They have drop in cartridges that allow the showa forks to come close to the Ohlins used by the pros. Not that the showas are bad, In fact Buell always put decent factory suspension on their bikes, which is why it's repairable, instead of needing to replace it.

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

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1 Answer

How to harden the forks and rear shock


Both are adjustable. The forks have an adjustment screw. Press down on the front end while standing next to the bike. It should rebound fairly quick but it shouldn't start to go back down again on it's own (oscillates due to not enough damping). Adjust screws evenly on both forks (exact same amount) clockwise and repeat process mentioned until rebound is smooth and doesn't oscillate. The same applies to the rear but you have only one adjustment on the Ohlins reservoir for the monoshock assembly. Do the bounce test and adjust clockwise until the rebound feels firm and doesn't oscilllate. It should handle like a beast and wheelie much easier now.

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Factory suspension settings yamaha xjr


Rebound - screw on top of fork leg - screw all the way in clockwise then screw out anti clockwise , 1 click for hard, 5 clicks for standard and 10 clicks for soft rebound damping.

compression - bottom of each fork leg - again screw all the way in clockwise and the 1 click anticlockwise for hard, 6 clicks for standard and 13 clicks for soft compression


hope this helps

John

Oct 15, 2011 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Factory suspension settings


Spring preload FR
To increase the spring preload and
thereby harden the suspension, turn
the adjusting bolt on each fork leg in direction
a. To decrease the spring preload
and thereby soften the
suspension, turn the adjusting bolt on
each fork leg in direction b
NOTE: _
Align the appropriate groove on the adjusting
mechanism with the top of the
front fork cap bolt.
_
CI-10E
Rebound damping force
To increase the rebound damping
force and thereby harden the rebound
damping, turn the adjusting screw on
each fork leg in direction a. To decrease
the rebound damping force and
thereby soften the rebound damping,
turn the adjusting screw on each fork
leg in direction b.
CI-02E
Compression damping force
To increase the compression damping
force and thereby harden the compression
damping, turn the adjusting screw
on each fork leg in direction a. To decrease
the compression damping force
and thereby soften the compression
damping, turn the adjusting screw on
each fork leg in direction b.
CI-02E
1. Current setting
2. Front fork cap bolt
Setting
Minimum (soft) 8
Standard 6
Maximum (hard) 1
1. Rebound damping force adjusting screw
Minimum (soft) 26 clicks in direction b*
Standard 13 clicks in direction b*
Maximum (hard) 1 click in direction b*
* With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction a
1. Compression damping force adjusting screw
Minimum (soft) 20 clicks in direction b*
Standard 13 clicks in direction b*
Maximum (hard) 1 click in direction b*
* With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction a
_
Although the total number of clicks of a
damping force adjusting mechanism
may not exactly match the above specifications
due to small differences in
production, the actual number of clicks
always represents the entire adjusting
range. To obtain a precise adjustment,
it would be advisable to check the number
of clicks of each damping force adjusting
mechanism and to modify the
specifications as necessary
CI-10E
Rebound damping force RR
To increase the rebound damping
force and thereby harden the rebound
damping, turn the adjusting screw in direction
a. To decrease the rebound
damping force and thereby soften the
rebound damping, turn the adjusting
screw in direction b.
CI-14E
Compression damping force
To increase the compression damping
force and thereby harden the compression
damping, turn the adjusting screw
in direction a. To decrease the compression
damping force and thereby
soften the compression damping, turn
the adjusting screw in direction b.
CI-14E
Setting
Minimum (soft) 1
Standard 4
Maximum (hard) 9

Whole process where need to turn toward "a" means clockwise and "b" counterclockwise. From Yamaha service manual. Hope this is good enough info to help you out. Good?

May 03, 2010 | 2002 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Suspension **** bought vbike as is but dont no base settings


front preload - 5 lines showing

front rebound damping- stiff

front comp damping- 5 clicks out

rear preload - 15mm from top ring

rear rebound damping - 3 clicks out

rear compression damping - 7 clicks out.

something for you to start with ,when readjusting make 1 adjustment at a time and note the changes so you can go back to the starting point above

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1 Answer

WHAT SHOULD COMPRESSION BE FOR 04 KXF 250


Engine: Four-stroke single cylinder with DOHC, four valves
Displacement: 249cc
Bore x stroke: 77.0 x 53.6
Cooling: Liquid
Carburetion: Keihin FCR37 with hot start circuit
Ignition: Digital AC-CDI
Transmission: Five-speed with wet multi-disc manual clutch
Frame: Perimeter style, high-tensile steel with D-section upper frame rails
Suspension type, front: 48mm inverted, cartridge-type telescopic fork
Suspension adjustments, front: 16-way compression and rebound damping
Suspension type, rear: UNI-TRAK single shock system
Suspension adjustments rear: 16-way compression and rebound damping, spring preload
Wheel travel, front: 11.8 in.
Wheel travel, rear: 12.2 in.
Tire, front: 80/100-21 51M
Tire, rear: 100/90-19 57M
Brakes, front / rear: Single semi-floating 250mm disc, dual-piston / single 240mm disc, single-piston
Compression Ration: 12.6:1 ***********************
Rake/Trail: 26.5 degress/110mm
Overall length: 85.4"
Overall width: 33"
Overall height: 50"
Ground clearance: 13.4"
Seat height: 37.4"
Dry weight: 204 pounds
Wheelbase: 58"
Fuel capacity: 2.0 gal.

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1 Answer

Suspension setup


front fork setting 6 e.g 6 rings out
damping set to 1/2 turn clockwise without clicking
rear suspension spring preload set to 3 and rebound damping 8 clicks out from fully turned in

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1 Answer

What are the stock suspension settings for a 2003 Honda CR 250 R?


set your compression out 10 or 11 your rebound 9 or 10 and your fork oil height to roughtly 380cc.since its in 03 u should drain the fork oil out, u have to unscrew the top cap of the fork while its in the triple clamps( because its easier this way), loosen then take the fork out of the clamps, unscrew the top caps and pull the fork tube down and turn the fork upside down to drain the oil out then hang the forks up upside down for about 15 minutes then add the new oil right in the fork tube were you'll see a spring, just add the oil in there and you'll be fine and u should replace it with a good medium weight oil

Feb 04, 2009 | 2003 Honda CR 250 R

3 Answers

Yamaha yz250 suspension settings


There is too much involved to include everything, but I can describe to you what everything does.

You have compression dampening which slows the rate at which the shock or forks can compress. Then you have rebound dampening which slows the rate at which the shock or forks can extend.

The compression adjuster on the rear shock is toward the top, sticking out sideways where the resivoir mounts to the side of the shock. The rebound adjuster can be seen below the swing arm on the side of the shock.

The compression adjusters on the front forks can be seen from the top. (its the one in the center, the other is an air bleed) The rebound adjuster is in the center of the lower fork leg, and can be seen from below the fork.



The settings are measured in the number of "clicks" from seated. More clicks from seated will be softer, and less clicks from seated will be stiffer. The best thing to do is to see where you are now and adjusting from there. I like to write them down as I go. Turn the adjuster clockwise untill it stops and take note of the number of clicks. DO NOT FORCE IT! You should also check your service manual and take note of the standard setting, and also take note of the maximum number of clicks you can go from seated. You dont want to screw the adjusters out farther than the max, shock damage can result.

You might try changing to the standard settings and try adjusting from there. If the bike doesnt ride at least moderately decent at the standard settings, your shock and/or forks may need a rebuild.


Generally speaking more compression dampening in the rear will result in less bottoming but a harsher ride. Less would result in the oppisite.

More rebound dampening in the rear will result in too slow of extension and packing up which will make the bike swap in the whoops, but it will not tend to buck you or throw you into a nose dive over a jump. Less would result in the oppisite.

In the front, more compression dampening will be about the same situation as described above with the shock.

More rebound dampening in the front forks can tend to take pressure off of the front wheel in corners causing washout, but too little can make the bike want to loop out over jumps.

Nov 21, 2008 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

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