How to remove the pressure plate or throw out bearing from the input shaft on a 2002 sebring 3.0 engine

the pressure plate to fit the flywheel in use and the clutch plate to fit the splines of the input shaft of the box
should use the standard throw out bearing on the standard carrier

Bearing gone in trans or a tooth missing off the cluster.

The transmission has to be removed. If it's a frobnt wheel drive car, the front axles have to be removed in order to remove the transmission.

The flywheel should be removed, too, and machined flat by an automotive machine shop. With the flywheel removed you may wish to replace the engine's rear main seal since it may leak oil.

The clutch often comes in a "key", which includes a new clutch pressure plate, clutch disk, and a "throw-out bearing" (used by the clutch fork to disengage the clutch). The kit may alos include a broze "pilot bearing", which is used to center the transmission's input shaft inot the engine crack shaft. The kit will include a placstic alignment tool to help the clutch disk while the new pressure plate is attached to the flywheel.

Fig. Fig. 1: Clutch release bearing - 1990 Colt hatchback and sedan w/ 1.6L engine, 1990 Colt Wagon w/1.8L engine, and 1990-93 Vista

Fig. Fig. 2: Clutch driven and drive discs - 1990-93 all models

Fig. Fig. 3: Clutch release bearing - 1990 Colt Wagon w/1.5L engine, 1991-92 Colt hatchback and sedan w/4-speed and 1993 Colt hatchback and sedan w/1.8L engine

1. Remove the transmission or transaxle as outlined.
2. Insert a pilot shaft or an old input shaft into the center of the clutch disc, pressure plate, and the pilot bearing in the crankshaft.
3. With the pilot tool supporting the clutch disc, loosen the pressure plate bolts gradually and in a crisscross pattern.
4. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
5. Clean the transmission and clutch housing. Clean the flywheel surface with a non-oil based solvent. Wash your hands before installing or handling the clutch assembly parts. Hold the clutch disc by the center hub only.

Before assembly, slide the clutch disc up and down on the transmission input shaft to check for any binding. Remove any rough spots with crocus cloth and then lightly coat the shaft with Lubriplate.

1. To remove the throwout bearing assembly: Remove the return clip and take out the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing.
2. To replace the throwout arm use a / 16 in. punch, knock out the throwout shaft spring pin and remove the shaft, springs, and the center lever.
3. Do not immerse the throwout bearing in solvent; it is permanently lubricated. Blow and wipe it clean. Check the bearing for wear, deterioration, or burning. Replace the bearing if there is any question about its condition.
4. Check the shafts, lever, and springs for wear and defects. Replace them if necessary.
5. If you hadn't planned on replacing the clutch disc, examine it for the following before reusing it. Loose rivets. Burned facing. Oil or grease on the facing. Less than 0.3mm left between the rivet head and the top of the facing.
6. Check the pressure plate and replace it if any of the following conditions exist: Scored or excessively worn. Bent or distorted diaphragm spring. Loose rivets.
7. Insert the control lever into the clutch housing. Install the two return springs and the throwout shaft.
8. Lock the shift lever to the shaft with the spring pin.
9. Fill the shaft oil seal with multipurpose grease.
10. Install the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing. Install the return clip.
11. Grease the carrier groove and inner surface.
12. Lightly grease the clutch disc splines.

The clutch is installed with the larger boss facing the transmission.

1. Support the clutch disc and pressure plate with the pilot tool.
2. Turn the pressure plate so that its balance mark aligns with the notch in the flywheel.
3. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts head-tight. Using a torque wrench and, working in a crisscross pattern, tighten the bolts to 11-15 ft. lbs.
4. Install the transmission or transaxle as outlined.
5. Adjust the clutch as described in the following information.

Disconnect the battery, disconnect the Hydraulic Line from the Slave Cylinder, Remove the Starter (2 bolts, 2 wires. Bolts are 14mm, 1 wire is 12mm, 1 plugs in), Remove the Driveshaft(s) (4 12mm bolts) Remove the 6 bolts from the bellhousing (4 are 14mm, 2 are 10mm)
Remove the bolt from the Transfer Case Mount, 12mm (only if it's a 4WD, if it's 2WD this doesn't apply), remove the 2 bolts that hold the Transmission Mount to the Crossmember (12mm or 14mm, it varies)
Slide the transmission back on the crossmember, away from the engine, I recommend running a ratchet strap across the frame to balance the transmission.
Remove the Pressure Plate from the Flywheel (Six 10mm bolts), Inspect the Pilot Bearing (if it needs replaced, you'll need to remove the Flywheel which is held on with six 18mm bolts, drive out the old bearing and drive in the new one, reinstall the flywheel, using Threadlocker on the bolts, torque the bolts to 100 ft lbs) Install the new clutch disc and Pressure Plate, with the centering tool inserted through the disc into the pilot bearing. Use thread locker on the pressure plate bolts and torque them to 20 ft lbs. Remove the centering/alignment tool after you've bolted it together
Remove old Throw Out bearing from input shaft on the transmission and slide the new one on. Slide the Transmission forward (make sure the input shaft slides into the pilot bearing, don't force the transmission into place or you could damage the clutch disc or break the input shaft) Torque the Bellhousing Bolts to 40 ft lbs (4 14mm bolts), Torque the 2 10mm bolts to 14 ft lbs, Install the Starter (torque bolts to 23 ft lbs), Reconnect Hydraulic Line to Slave Cylinder. Torque Transmission Mount Bolts to 30 ft lbs.
Reinstall Driveshafts, torque bolts on flange/yoke to 40 ft lbs. Fill Clutch Master Cylinder with DOT-3 Brake & Clutch Fluid, Open Bleeder Screw on Slave Cylinder and bleed the air out of the system, close bleeder screw.
Reconnect the wires to the Starter, Reconnect the battery.

The throw out bearing will be on the outside of the clutch assemble. What it does is push against the fingers in the center of the pressure plate.

The clutch is a friction disk up against the flywheel and pressed against it by the clutch pressure place. So you have to remove the transmission in order to gain access.
For that you:
disconnect battery
drop drive shaft
remove speedometer cable or wire, shift and clutch linkage
support engine and transmission separately.
remove rear support
remove engine to transmission bolts, cover plate, and starter
slide transmission back until input shaft clears clutch pressure plate ring
lower transmission.
remove pressure plate evenly and slowly

Then you inspect for wear on the pilot bushing the input shaft rests on, the friction disc is assumed to be too thin, the pressure plate should not show heat damage or scratching, and the throw out bearing should not be noisy.

Installation is reverse except you use a fake plastic input shaft in order to firmly locate the friction disk in the right place, when bolting pressure plate on. Remember to tighten evenly, diagonally, and not to break off any bolts by over tightening. Remove fake plastic input shaft before continuing then.

The first thing to do is to have the flywheel re-surfaced because a warped flywheel will cause the clutch to chatter or shudder when you let up the clutch pedal, and also be certain that the pilot bearing is replaced, it can be difficult to remove the pilot bearing from the end of the crankshaft and you will most likely need to obtain a good pilot bearing puller to remove it.

Clean the bell-housing and the rear of the engine block while the flywheel is being re-surfaced, and be sure that all of the old clutch material and dust has been cleaned from the bell-housing and the rear of the engine block, and contamination from an old clutch disk will lead to early clutch failure.

After the flywheel has been installed and torqued down, then you will need to mount the clutch disk and the pressure-plate assembly together onto the flywheel, and be sure that the clutch disk is facing the right way (usually the spring hub will go towards the pressure-plate assembly), and then start to install the pressure-plate assembly bolts but only hand tighten them for now. After the bolts have been started then use the clutch disk alignment tool that should have come with the clutch kit to align the clutch disk with the pilot bearing, and when you have it aligned so that the alignment tool easily slips through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing, then tighten down the bolts to the pressure-plate assembly one turn at a time in a criss-cross pattern until the pressure-plate assembly is flush with the flywheel and then you can torque down the pressure-plate assembly bolts. This is a critical step and the better aligned that you get the disk and pilot bearing, and the easier it is to remove and replace the alignment tool, the easier it will be to install the transmission, and the transmission input shaft should slip smoothly through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing and not have any difficulties mounting up to the engine, and if the transmission hangs up when you are installing it and and the transmission input shaft does not go straight in through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing, it can damage the clutch hub and the clutch will chatter or shudder when you let the clutch pedal up, and it will shorten the life of the clutch.

After the clutch has been aligned then install the throw-out/release bearing onto the transmission input shaft collar and the throw-out/release bearing fork, and use a lithium based grease on the pivot points of the throw-out/release bearing fork and where the fork contacts the throw-out/release bearing, and if it did not come greased, then lightly grease the inside of the throw-out/release bearing with a lithium based grease and do not over do it on the grease, you want just enough grease to keep the throw-out bearing and the input shaft collar lubricated but still have a smooth operation to it, and you do not want to damage the clutch from oil or grease contamination as this will cause the new clutch disk to slip.

The transmission can now be installed into the vehicle and be careful not to hang the transmission input shaft on the clutch disk or the clutch disk will be damaged. I hope that this information will help you to replace that clutch with a proper quality repair that you will get the most out of.

thats because that type of clutch is a pull type not a push type, to remove the trans first remove the slave cyl then the 14mm nut that holds the fork arm lever its on top of the arm, then remove the arm off of the shaft, now remove the trans, the hard part is reasembly.. because you have to install the release bearing on the trans and snap it into the preasure plate, thats a whole nother story.......

no it does not, the wrx has its throw out bearing attached to a shaft that needs to be removed before you seperate the trans from the engine. you will see a access plug on the drivers side just below the starter,remove the plug with a 10mm hex to gain access the shaft,install a 6 mm by 1.0 bolt into the threaed portion of the shaft and slide it out,the throw out bearing is attached to the pressure plate with a large cir clip, make sure the throw out and shaft are reinstalled on the trans before it is installed,when it is, push fork while standing in front of the car to attach the the throw out bearing to the pressure plate, good luck!