Question about 2000 Yamaha XJ 900 S Diversion

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Oil leak from final drive housing, but not from the drain bolt or the filler bolt but from whatever the device at 12 0'clock on the top of the housing is!

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The device at 12 0'clock is a breather. Check you have the right amount of the right grade oil in the final drive. Best to drain it all out and start again.

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

Testimonial: "thanks, I was wondering what its function was! oil's correct, this is the first time it's leaked. maybe the low temps/lack of use? "

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Where to changer or check gear oil on 2002 vstar classis 650


The gear oil is the final drive oil - on the back wheel it's the hub assembly that the drive shaft ties into. There's a bolt at the top of it for filling and one at the bottom to drain. You should drive the bike a little to warm the oil, then you can drain the oil through that lower plug. I usually open the filler one on top while draining and I pour some fresh gear oil in to kind of flush it. Then install and tighten the drain plug. Fill with fresh oil right to the top of the filler plug. Some drain plugs are magnetic to pickup metal debris (normal) so clean that off when you have it out.

Jul 15, 2012 | Yamaha Motorcycles

1 Answer

How to change the thermostat house in a Dodge 2004 intrepid


Check this procedure for...
2.7L Engine
  1. Disconnect negative cable.
    CAUTION Do not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.
  2. Drain cooling system.
  3. Remove radiator lower hose from thermostat housing.
  4. Remove nuts from heater tube flange studs.
  5. Loosen starter bolt at heater tube bracket.
  6. Pull heater tube out of thermostat housing and position out of the way.
  7. Remove bolt and two studs.
  8. Remove thermostat housing, O-ring and thermostat.
  9. Remove thermostat housing bolts.
To install:
  1. Clean gasket sealing surfaces.
    NOTE Install thermostat with the bleed valve located at the 12 o'clock position, between tabs on seal.
  2. Install thermostat and seal into thermostat housing .
  3. If removed, install two studs.
  4. Install thermostat, thermostat housing and O-ring and bolt. Tighten attaching bolts to 105 inch lbs.(12 Nm).
  5. Lubricate new heater return tube O-ring with coolant.
  6. Position heater return tube flange over two studs. Install nuts.
  7. Tighten retaining nuts to 53 inch lbs.(6 Nm).
  8. Tighten starter bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54.3 Nm).
  9. Connect the lower radiator hose to the thermostat housing. Install hose clamps.
  10. Refill cooling system.
  11. Inspect for leaks.
  12. Connect negative cable.

3.2L & 3.5L Engines
  1. Disconnect negative cable.
    CAUTION Do not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.
  2. Drain cooling system.
  3. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  4. Disconnect electrical connectors from engine oil and power steering pressure switches.
  5. Disconnect radiator and heater hoses from thermostat housing.
  6. Remove thermostat housing bolts.
  7. Remove housing, thermostat, and gasket.
    NOTE The OEM thermostat is staked in place at the factory. To ensure proper seating of replacement thermostat, carefully remove the bulged metal from the thermostat housing using a suitable hand held grinder. It is not necessary to restake the replacement thermostat into the thermostat housing.
To install:
  1. Position gasket on thermostat and housing.
  2. Install thermostat housing, gasket and mounting bolts onto block. Tighten attaching bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
  3. Install radiator hose.
  4. Install bypass hose.
  5. Connect electrical connectors from engine oil and power steering pressure switches.
  6. Connect negative cable.
  7. Fill cooling system.
  8. Inspect for leaks.
  9. Lower vehicle on hoist.

Hope helps (remember to rate and comment thius answer).

Apr 28, 2011 | 2004 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

Leaking oil from reart diff


Where is it leaking from? Around the edges of the cover?
You may need to make a new gasket for it.
Drain oil by remove lower bolts and slightly prying on cover so fluid starts draining.
Slowly make your way up to the top bolts until it's completely empty.
Remove cover, clean old gasket off housing and cover.
Attain gasket maker from any auto store, and spread a even amount around edge of housing, where the cover and housing touch..
Replace cover, fill with oil, and see if this stops the leaking. If not, you may have just rusted out the cover, after years of wear and rust (depending on the year of the vehicle) and may need to simply replace the cover.

Only major problem is it would be leaking from the side or where the drive shaft enters the housing, which would require new seals, and a bit more work!

I hope this helps!

Jan 11, 2011 | Toyota Land Cruiser Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need step by step instructions on changing the oil and oil filter


First warm up your bike then locate your oil neck filler on your LH side just above your clutch foot pedal, open / loosen it.
Just below it below your clutch housing you will find a large bolt that needs to be opened counterclock wise with a size 17 spanner, unbolt it, before doing so put an oil pan below it to catch the oil.
Your oil filter housing normally reside in the center of your block, open using a size 15 spanner, place oil pan below it to catch any oil drippings.
As soon as you have unbolt the oil filter housing, carefully note the sequence the oil filter is set-up as you need to put everything back in the same order.
Once you have taken the oil plug off and no more oill coming out from the hole, you can put the drain plug in again and tighten it just tight enough to stop poil from leaking, do not over tighthen as it will make more difficult whe doing the next oil change.
Reverse your oil filter process and tighten the bolt tight enough to hold any leaks.
Last step to fill you bike though the oil neck filler hole with 10W40 oil as factory recommendation (about 2.5 -2.8 L). Check everything ensuring they are tight enough then just start your bike for let it idle for abour 2-3 minutes while looking for any seeping from the drain hole of oil filter huosing, if any.
Once that is finish you are finish with the oil change job.
Good enough?

Jun 11, 2010 | 2004 Honda CRF 450 R

2 Answers

Looks like the oil is leaking out right above the


oil filter screws onto an adapter housing which also has the pressure sending unit on it (above oil filter). This adapter housing bolts to the block with 3 bolts. if oil appears to be leaking from where the adapter housing meets the block (especially at the rear side of engine near bottom), then you need to replace the siamese o-rings between the adapter housing and the block ($12 part at dealer). remove lowest 12mm bolt and loosen top 2 12 mm bolts(top 2 bolts won't come out unless you drop the engine down, but loosening 1 inch is all you need), replace o-rings and retighten bolts. be careful not to get dirt/grit between block and adapter. just finished doing this to son's 95 2.7 v6 which was leaving an 8" puddle of oil after idling for only 1 minute-worked perfect

Feb 24, 2010 | 1995 Honda Accord

1 Answer

WHERE IS THE FILLER PLUG ON THE GEARBOX ON A 1998 PASSAT TDI PLEASE


Hi,

Just checking.... it is a manual gearbox?

You may need a special tool for the drain plug and a 17mm allen key for the filler (some use the special drain tool for the filler as well)

The drain plug is located under the diff housing.

The filler plug is located on the left (nearside) off the gearbox (look to the left of the hole and you can see the 17mm hex filler bung).

Check you can undo the filler bung, then drain the gearbox oil.

Refit drain bung and fill gearbox through filler/level ********* until gearbox oil is up to the level of the filler bung.

Refit, test drive, check for leaks and retest level again when cold.

Cheers,

"If this has helped you in any way, please rate this solution" :-)

Jan 27, 2010 | 1998 Volkswagen Passat

2 Answers

How do I change the rear and front Differential fluid?


There is a drain plug on some vehicles at the bottom side of the differential that must be removed to drain the old oil out but on others you must remove the cover which has at least ten bolts that are in a circle pattern around the differential cover. After removing the cover and draining the old oil out dry out the excess oil left inside the casing with a clean rag, scrape off any old gasket material on both the differential casing and the cover. Purchase a gasket for the cover and reinstall the cover tightening the bolts in a criss cross or X pattern not too tight . Proceed to locate the filler plug on the upper right or left side of the differential, this plug is usually removed with the square end of a 3/8" socket wrench just using the square end of the socket wrench should do it or you may need a large hex head allen wrench but usually using a short extention with the socket wrench to get the clearance to turn the square end of the extention or socket wrench inside the plug will work, some times the plug is very tight and you may need to use a 1/2' drive socket wrench with a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer or adapter to acheive the neccessary torque required to crack the filler plug free, now get a coulple of 80/90 weight gear oil quarts and cut the filler tip back a bit with a razor or utility knife and using a 3/8" length of rubber hose slide it over the end of the tip tighten a small hose clamp on to the hose to prevent it from sliding off the filler tip, then feed the end of the hose into the filler hole on the differential and invert and sqeeze the container of oil to force the oil into the differential until it fills and over flows out the filler hole, screw in the filler plug and tighten. Use this general procedure for both the front and back differentials.

Oct 27, 2009 | 2005 Jeep Liberty

1 Answer

How do I change my oil on my 98 ford escort zx2


Try this.

On level ground, jack up the front of the car and support it with axle stands.

Get an open container that will take more than 5 ltrs.

Under the engine block you will find the sump.

On the sump you should find a 13mm nut, this is the drain plug.

Undo the drain plug and have the empty container directly below the sump plug.

Retain the sump plug and clean it with a rag.

When the oil has drained out of the sump, put back the plug making sure the washer is in good condition and the plug is tight.

Now unscrew the oil filter having the old oil container below the filter housing to catch any oil.

Wipe around the the filter housing to remove any and all old oil.

Now offer up the new oil filter but do not tighten.

If the new filter fits the oil filter housing, then remove it and lightly oil the rubber seal on the filter with clean oil.

Now refit the filter and tighten it up. Not too tight, you can do this by hand but get it as tight as you can.

Now lower the car to to the ground.

At the top of the engine you will find an oil filler cap. Undo this cap.

Now put in the new oil to just below the full mark on the dip stick. Let the oil drain through the engine to the sump for a couple of minutes before checking the oil level.

If the level is between 1/2 and full, replace the filler cap and start the engine.

Now look at the oil filter and the sump plug for any leaks. Also check around the oil filler cap for oil leaks and spillage.

With the engine turned off. Clean any oil spillages and tighten up the oil filter, sump and oil filler cap as required.

Now leave the oil to drain back to the sump for a few minutes.

Check the oil level and top up as required.

I find that it is best to top the oil up to just below the Max mark.

This should solve the problem.

Ray



Aug 01, 2009 | 1998 Ford Escort

1 Answer

1995 jeep yj 5 speed AX-5


Where are you seeing the oil leaking from? Remember that gravity will cause the oil to drop down. The wind will also cause the oil to blow back while you drive. Look for the forward most and top most areas that are covered with oil. Common leak areas are the front oil seal (oil will look like it's coming from the bell-housing. Another common leak is the shifter plate gasket, just below the shift lever. Oil will be found draining from this area. I have also seen shoddy mechanics use the wrong bolts to hold the rear housing onto the main housing of the transmission. If the bolts used are to short, oil will leak between the main housing and the tail-shaft housing. Charlie

Jun 14, 2009 | 1995 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

Oil changing


1.remove the oil filler plug from the top of the frame between the fuel tank and headstock 8mm allen key. 2 remove the front drive sprocket cover (two 5mm allen screws) this exposes the cover plate for the oil filter. 3 remove the sump bash plate if you have one (DS models) its held on with four nuts and bolts (5mm allen/13mm a.f. nuts) yes its a bit awkward. 4.place an old drain oil can under the frame and remove the frame drain plug (13mm a/f) situated below the engine on the nearside frame rail be quick to move your drain can under the jet of oil that is shooting from the frame onto your knee oh yes have plenty of rags handy! 5, remove the magnetic drain plug from the sump again move your drain can under the oil pouring onto the floor. 6, remove the oil filter cover plate via the 3 5mm allen screws and catch more oil..... remove the old filter, give the housing a wipe out then push in the new filter .... refit the cover plate. 7, make sure you have re-fitted your frame and sump drain plugs..... even more oil on the floor is usually a good indicator you have forgotten one. 8,measure out 2 litres of oil and slowly fill the frame using a long flexible funnel don't rush it to avoid airlocks. 9, leaving the long funnel in place I turn the motor over a dozen times on the kickstarter (ignition off) to circulate the oil round the filter etc and remove any air (you will hear big glugging noises from the filler whilst hand turning the engine. 10, pour another 1/2 litre in, refit the filler cap important don't run the bike without the filler cap in place...more oil on the floor! run the bike for five minutes switch off check the oil level at the sight tube on the nearside of the headstock just below the filler, sight tube should be half full after you have turned the engine off...top up a bit at a time and repeat the running/sighting procedure. 11, now spend at least an hour cleaning the oil off the garage floor! top tip ..... put some plastic sheet down before you start! ,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2006 CCM 404 Enduro

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