I NEED VIEW OF CLUTCH PLATE ASSEMBBLY. DOES THE LAST PLATE NEED TO BE STAGGERED FROM THE FINGERS OFF THE REST OF THE CLUTCHES? THE ONE THE PRESSURE PLATE RIDES ON. WHY DOES THIS ONE HAVE A DIFFERENT PART NUMBER, IT IS IDENTICAL TO ALL THE OTHERS?

It sounds as though the clutch pressure plate has become weak.

When you press the clutch pedal the release/throwout bearing presses against the centre of the clutch pressure plate. This causes the metal 'fingers' -the springs- on the pressure plate to flex and release pressure on the driven plate - momentarily disconnecting the drive from engine to gearbox.

The link below is of generic clutch images
how clutch works Google Search

A weak pressure plate isn't fully releasing the driven plate. If you're going to do any replacing of parts - a clutch should be replaced in 3 units: Pressure plate, driven plate and release/throwout bearing.

if you can inspect around the bell housing drain hole for oil drips it will point to a clutch problem
what you describe is oil on the clutch plate from an oil seal leaking ( rear main or clutch input shaft) not enough to slip but enough to make the plate grab or stick to the flywheel or pressure plate
run the fault codes for the rough running problem as it could be injectors , fuel pressure or vacuum leaks
Take it to an accredited brake and clutch specialist shop for a proper diagnosis of the clutch if not under warranty but you say hat it is 2015 model so it may be still a warranty problem
Be careful here as the service shop may say that clutches are not under warranty but there is an implied warranty that the vehicle will last more than 1 year if it has a warranty period
if it is refused , take it up with the company head office and if no success get a lawyer in as vehicles and clutches last more than 12 months

engine dying when the foot is on the brakes indicates a faulty brake booster loosing vacuum
The throw out bearing will have to be replaced before it damages the pressure plate fingers.
replacing part of a clutch is a total waste of money as now you have to spend more money fixing what should have been replace d last time. Clutches should be replaced as a kit which includes the throw out bearing.

The reason for the high biting point is simple. The clutch is made of 3 main components.
The pressure plate friction plate and the release bearing.
The more times clutch is depressed the concentric spring fingers wear in 2 ways . Firstly by good old metal to metal rubbing and secondly the concentric spring fingers don't return as far as a new one causing the release bearing or csc to adjust .
When the pressure plate concentric spring gingers wear they don't sit proud and require more pedal effort to depress. .
When they loose there spring like feature they require a greater distance from the release bearing. Or it has to travel further to depress them to lift The pressure plate and fee the friction plate from the lay shaft on which it is splined onto to give you drive once released.
The further back the bearing has to travel to allow the fingers to clamp the pressure plate to the friction plate . The more the clutch has become worn and unserviceable.
Self adjustment on hydraulic clutches are a hard one to gauge as you have no idea how far the piston has moved out to compensate for this wear . With a cable you can physically see the wear and adjust .
High biting points on any car are useless. You want a biting point to be 2 to 3 inches from the top and not nearly level with the brake pedal.
Anyway it seems apparent that Peugeot and Citroen both have high to almost no point at which they bite .
I myself would modify this as an engineer.
But it seems to be normal on these cats to have absolutely no biting point worth talking about.
My sisters 2012 206 1.4 is a very high biting point and I myself would not be happy with it . It gives u no indication of a worn clutch if its self adjusting.
Alll hydraulic clutches are self adjusting. So why are Peugeot and Citroens sooo high. Its ridiculous.
A very idiotic idea and I'm taking it back with her and I'm complaining. Hopefully I should get somewhere and ill update you all

Now you have gone off and confused me. Is it RELEASING late or is it ENGAGING late? Releasing at the top of the pedal is releasing early and engaging late. When you replaced your clutch, did you resurface or replace the flywheel? Makes a BIG difference. I usually recommend master cylinder replacement at the same time the clutch, pressure plate, nflywheel, throwout bearing, pilot bushing or bearing and slave cylinder is replaced. That is the only way to guarantee a trouble-free clutch relacement. The original clutches usually last over 100.000 miles (depending on how it is driven) The replacement clutches will not last nearly that long if a COMPLETE job is not done.

I get undersold on my clutch jobs all the time. But I also get many of those customers back when the other shops do a poor job (clutch, pressure plate, and maybe, a slave cylinder) and the car needs a clutch again in just a few months. It has been a LONG time since I have had one of my clutch jobs come back to haunt me. Sometimes you get just what you are willing to pay for.

Hi, I think the noise you were getting while changing gear is most likely to be the clutch release
bearing ( as you press the clutch down the release bearing contacts the clutch pressure plate
fingers ).
The whinning noise is the bearing seizing up,
Unfortunately it looks like yours has damaged the fingers of the pressure plate so the clutch is not disengaging to allow you to select a gear.
A clutch kit will need to be fitted this contains clutch plate, pressure plate, release beaing
I hope this dos`nt turn out to be to expensive for you
John ( South Wales UK )

I assume you mean clutch plates. Mount the outer clutch basket and the inner clutch hub then install a fiber plate, then a metal pressure plate, fiber, metal, fiber and so on. You should end up with a fiber plate. Some clutch sets have two fiber plates that are .005 thicker than the others. The thicker plate goes in as the first plate and the last plate. Please rate my answer.

Go to the folowing website and you can see a diagram of the clutch. Follow the diagram for installation sequence. You didn't say exactly what year, model and cc your bike is, but clutches have the 1st and last plate as a fiber friction disk. So the secquence is fiber friction plate, metal pressure plate, fiber, metal, fiber, etc.. Sometimes the 1st and last friction plates are 5 to 10 thousandths thicker at the cork surface than the rest of the friction disks. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

Remove the left side cover to expose the clutch. Remove the outer pressure plate by removing the 6 bolts and springs. You can now remove the first friction plate. Then a metal pressure plate, then friction, metal, friction, etc.. The first and last friction plates are a few thousandths of an inch thicker than the rest of the friction plates. When installing the new plates, be sure the two thicker friction plates are at each end of the clutch. A complete diagram of your clutch can be found at the following website. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

i sure hope you didn't use car oil but bought motorcycle oil. The clutch is a wet-type system that uses engine oil to keep it cool. Motorcycle oil is formulated differently than car oil, which has detergents in it to add lubrication and engine life that will cause a motorcycle's clutch to slip. A new clutch is both inexpensive and easy to replace. When you buy a new clutch, don't forget the clutch cover gasket. i recommend EBC clutches.
1. Set up a little pan with MOTORCYCLE oil in it and place the new clutch discs and pressure plates in it so that they get well-covered with clean oil.
2. Drain the oil, remove the clutch cover and remove the bolts on the cover of the clutch basket.
3. Remove the old clutch parts and make sure you pay attention to what the last part is (disc or pressure plate).
4. Install the new clutch, starting with the last part you removed and alternate between the discs and pressure plates until you run out.
5. Reinstall the clutch basket's cover plate and re-torque the bolts to the specified setting, using a cross-sequence like you would on a wheel.
6. Clean all the old gasket off, install the clutch cove and new gasket and fill up your engine with oil.
7. Ride away happy because you just changed your first clutch!

Hope this helps,
matt

Hope